57 PS valve removal

[1930artdeco]

Anyone know how to remove the PS valve from the pitman arm? Mine is stuck on there super super tight. This is on a station wagon.

Thanks,

Mike

[KULTULZ]

The easiest method is with a tie rod puller. You can usually rent one from a box store.

DO NOT HEAT AND BEAT!

[1930artdeco]

Thanks, I won't do the second anymore.



Mike

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

thanks, i won't do the second anymore.

Mike

!!! JUST SAY NO TO THE HOT WRENCH and BFH !!!

[Jwawhite]

In the 56 shop manual, a photo and caption reveal: Loosen the Nut back it off a bit, place a hammer behind the pitman arm and strike the stud-with Nut on it, with another hammer.

[1930artdeco]

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I believe my manual says the same. But either way that stud wasn't going to budge. So...from another tip I will remove the valve from the ball stud and then deal with the stud separately. I should be able to rebuild the valve and ram fairly easily according to the manual.


Mike

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Jwawhite

In the 56 shop manual, a photo and caption reveal: Loosen the Nut back it off a bit, place a hammer behind the pitman arm and strike the stud-with Nut on it, with another hammer.

Correct, but that was before things became permanently frozen (1960). If you try that method (which is fine) after a few love taps she is still frozen it is best (IMO) to go with a specialty tool.

When backing off the retaining nut, bring it down so as to be flush with the actual stud end to prevent mushrooming the stud end.

Also say no to pickle forks. Can cause a lot of damage.

Think safety glasses.

[1930artdeco]

Ordered a kit with various pulling tools so hopefully this will work. Then off to the races at getting everything else off.

Mike

[KULTULZ]

Most likely the kit is off-shore (CHI-COM for 55blacktie as am now an official rascally racist) but be sure you have safety glasses when using.

[1930artdeco]

Yeah, I am sure it is. But, on short notice until I can find a US made set it will have to do.


Mike

[KULTULZ]

Nah, what I am saying is that the off-shore may not withstand all of the pulling force. These things can explode, even top grade.

No use to buy first grade for something seldomly used.

[1930artdeco]

I am aware of the 'non-strength' of Chinese tools. I am just hoping that they hold long enough for at least this one application. Normally I search for US made tools but in this case I am temporarily stuck with the Chinese stuff. I will see what happens on tuesday when I pull the springs and the rest of the steering items.


Mike

[1930artdeco]

Well, I got the PS parts out along with both spindles and upper arms. Will work the lowers over this weekend. I had to use one of the tools that out of the kit I bought and it pushed it right off. The PS valve and ram will get packed and shipped to get rebuilt, just to make sure there is nothing wrong with them that I could not fix-and the price is right to boot.


I do have two questions though.


1) How do I get the new springs in without and engine to weigh down the frame? I compressed one spring 13" to get it out, I assume the new springs will have to be compressed 14"+ so I can get the spindles bolted up.


2) How do I get the upper bushings out with the shaft still installed?




Mike

[KULTULZ]

The engine is out of the car?

Did you use a spring compressor to remove the springs or just drop the lower control arm with a floor jack?

[KULTULZ]

2) How do I get the upper bushings out with the shaft still installed?

On the car is going to be a tough one. FORD released a SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL KIT decades ago that allows on car bushing replacement if you can find the right size adapters -

I think I have seen an aftermarket tool set (off-shore) that will do the same thing. A professional set is available from OTC TOOLS. Maybe a box store has one to rent?

[1930artdeco]

Kultulz,


There is no engine in the car at this point. I used a compressor to compress them and then dropped the lower arm to get them out. I am just thinking ahead to when I have to jack up the lower arms to connect everything.


The upper arms are out now, I just have to get the lowers out. The above kits have 'cups' that go around the shaft to push the bushings out? I think that is what is throwing me for a loop.


Mike

[KULTULZ]

The above kits have 'cups' that go around the shaft to push the bushings out? I think that is what is throwing me for a loop.

Yes. The CLAMP works as a press. You push the bushing out and the new one in with adapters similar as shown in the SHOP MANUAL.

If out, why not take to a machine shop?

FORGOT -

Will your spring compressor compress the spring enough to sit it in there? If not, you will have to chain the frame down to the floor somehow if the frame raises while raising the lower control arm.

[1930artdeco]

I may have to take them into a shop for pressing. I was hoping to save $30 a bushing in and out times 4.


Mike

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

I was hoping to save $30 a bushing in and out times 4.

I didn't realize things have gotten so expensive.

SEARCH - CONTROL ARM BUSHING INSTALLER KITS and you might decide it is cheaper to buy a set. At least you would have them for future use.


ALSO - https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7045B-Fro.../dp/B000GTJ5I8

[LOWRIDER]

I used a ball joint press kit from Oriely's to r&r the suspension bushings on my 61.