Thermostat Use?

[1955cj5]

I've done a couple searches and read several threads.

I did read one thread that indicated that Model A's did not originally come with thermostats in the cooling system.

Is there any reason at all to NOT use a thermostat in the cooling system?

It seems to me that having a 160° thermostat is a good choice.....

[1929]

Originally Posted by 1955cj5

I've done a couple searches and read several threads.

I did read one thread that indicated that Model A's did not originally come with thermostats in the cooling system.

Is there any reason at all to NOT use a thermostat in the cooling system?

It seems to me that having a 160° thermostat is a good choice.....

I think its a great choice, and so did the person who rebuilt my engine, I asked him if it was time for me to add it, because my engine was running cool.

[RonC]

Originally Posted by 1955cj5

I've done a couple searches and read several threads.

I did read one thread that indicated that Model A's did not originally come with thermostats in the cooling system.

Is there any reason at all to NOT use a thermostat in the cooling system?

It seems to me that having a 160° thermostat is a good choice.....

A thermostat restricts the coolant flow into the radiator holding the coolant in the enginee longer. . The only reason not to use it is if it makes your engine run too hot exspecially on a hot summer day.

[Tiny]

A theromostat solved a few issues I was having with excessive flow and over heating. I see no reason not to try one.

[Y-Blockhead]

I believe a thermostat can only be a good thing. With a higher engine temperature you will get more complete combustion. If your engine is not running hot enough, the BAD stuff that gets by your rings (unburned gas, water, etc.) will condense in your crankcase, dilute your oil and circulate thru your engine. If it is kept in a vapor form it will go out the breather. I have a 180° thermostat.

This is a also a good argument for a Fumaze or Flex Tube breather to route under car by the way because they draw out the blow by. .

[Fred S]

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A thermostat brings the water to operating temperature sooner. It gets plenty hot in Houston, in the summer, and I've never had a problem with overheating, using a 160 degree thermostat.

[Capt Quahog]

Have an original 1920s era BOYCE motometer on a 31' Model A Ford that appears to accurately monitor the coolant temperature. The vehicle runs steady and normal. Operating that car in it's original form without thermostat seems to work okay. Back in the old days, we used to use straight distilled water in our Model A Ford radiators. In retrospect . . . that was mostly stupid. Nowadays, I run PEAK brand antifreeze-coolant and all seems well.

[Pete / MA]

I like to drive my Model A on nice days in New England that can be anywhere from 40* to 90*. My 160* T-stat and Berg HD radiator keeps the engine well within the "operating range" in all conditions so far. I'm very happy with this setup,.............Pete

[JohnLaVoy]

Like was said the operating temperature of the engine needs to be in the 160 range for a proper burn of the current fuel on the market. I was using a moto-meter for years to watch the temp and was shocked to find that my phaeton was only getting to 140 on a really warm day. I had installed a modern high quality temp gauge to find this out. Have since installed the 160 degree thermostat on each of the cars we tour in.

[CarlG]

My engine builder recommends (and furnished) a 180° Thermostat.

[bettlesr]

I run a 180° thermostat on mine. Keeps the water nice and warm for my under seat heater.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I also use a 180* thermostat.

[bobpo1]

I have not had an overheating problem since I installed the 160 Thermostat. It regulates the temperature very well, and most of all, it gives you complete peace of mind That's important.

[1955cj5]

Thanks to everyone..

The 160° thermostat is installed....

Tomorrow is supposed to be sunny...time for a test drive!

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

An engine is a water HEATER, a radiator is a water COOLER, a THERMOSTAT is needed to co-ordinate the water flow!--SIMPLE!
Bill W.

[Capt Quahog]

Hadn't factored in the use of modern day corn on the cob infused petrol. When I last was running Model A Fords, we had plenty of nice cheap wholesome LEADED gasoline available.

Okay then, where does the thermostat go within a standard Model A Ford 4-banger engine? Also too, will the increased temperature cause the antique Boyce Motometer to overheat and explode?

As the wounded bank robber said to Dirty Harry, "I gutts ta know . . .!"

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Capt Quahog

...Okay then, where does the thermostat go within a standard Model A Ford 4-banger engine? ...

I got one of these thermostat housings from Vintage Precision.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I slip the stat into the top hose as close to the engine as possible, and I slip a plastic barbed fitting into the hose to hold it in place, so it doesn't get pushed to the top of the hose by water pump pressure. I buy a barbed coupler at Menards for 2" ID hose. I can then cut about 1" off each end with the barbs and thus have 2 fittings for 2 of my cars. At first I used a piece of lower radiator pushed inside the top hose, and this works well also, but I don't always have an old lower hose around to cut up.

[Dodge]

Been using one in My Model T and one in my Model A, 180 degree for 15yrs. works great.

[marc hildebrant]

While I have a thermostat, I have not installed it yet.

Currently, I use cardboard placed between the radiator and the stone guard. I raise it up or down to adjust for 160 degrees.

Not very pretty, but it works.

Marc

[Mike V. Florida]

I can't think of a negative to using a thermostat. Anyone want to mention the drilling of additional 1/8 inch holes in the thermostat?

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

... Anyone want to mention the drilling of additional 1/8 inch holes in the thermostat?

No.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by CarlG

No.

Correct, DON'T MESS WITH THE ENGINEERS' DESIGN!
That's like some PUNK KID, lowering his car with a ROSEBUD TORCH, in 10 MINUTES, he can screw up the steering GEOMETRY, beyond BELIEF!!!!
Bill W.

[taffrail]

I thought the 1/8" drilled hole was a marine thing, I always did it but never knew why.

[mshmodela]

Here's my videos of installing my 160F Thermostat last year, Per TomW and Mitch's advice
I added two more holes.... The car never over heated with it installed and I would
say runs better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlD1ecjtGCk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=caUjggSKfA4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d82isRP18XQ

I will say over the last summer, the car likely cooked out some things being a hotter running engine..

[Y-Blockhead]

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Originally Posted by mshmodela

Here's my videos of installing my 160F Thermostat last year...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlD1ecjtGCk

Mike, there you go again "installing my thermostat in the oil line"

[glenn in camino]

I use thermostats in 2 of my model As. They warm up quickly on 20 degree mornings and don't overheat.

[AL in NY]

If anyone looked at those videos in post #25 you'll see that the water neck is sitting 50-60 degrees colder than the rear of the engine. That's because the water is not circulating through the engine with the thermostat closed. The coolant in the rear of the engine could flash boil before the thermostat opens. You need to drill a 1/4 hole in the thermostat or install a thermostat bypass tube to even out the temperature gradient from the front to the rear.

[mshmodela]

FWIW, I took many videos of my engine's heat before the installing the thermostat, you'll see the rear of the engine is hotter as well... I would guess if the intake of the cool water was not in the middle but the rear it would have likelly less of a temperature differential.

[1955cj5]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

If anyone looked at those videos in post #25 you'll see that the water neck is sitting 50-60 degrees colder than the rear of the engine. That's because the water is not circulating through the engine with the thermostat closed. The coolant in the rear of the engine could flash boil before the thermostat opens. You need to drill a 1/4 hole in the thermostat or install a thermostat bypass tube to even out the temperature gradient from the front to the rear.

Now this is exactly why I started this thread...

It seemed to me that you could get hot spots in the head and block if there were no circulation with the thermostat closed...

Many engines have a bypass on the head or a hot water heater to allow coolant circulation through the block.

With the holes in the thermostat housing though there is quit a bit of circulation.

I let it warm up last night, drilled 3-hole thermostat installed, and the temperature across the head, block and radiator was pretty uniform as it warmed up.

[CarlG]

The thermostat housing I have (shown in post # 17 & 22 above) has a couple of bypass passages built in to the housing to allow "some" circulation when the thermostat is closed. If you look closely in the post # 22 exploded view, you can see them on either side of the seat where the thermostat goes. No need to drill extra holes whenever you change out the thermostat.

[AL in NY]

1955cj5, I hope when you drilled the thermostat, you used something larger than an 1/8" drill. IMO, minimum size should be one 1/4" hole to provide some coolant circulation with the thermostat closed.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

install a thermostat bypass tube to even out the temperature gradient from the front to the rear.

Al in NY, I like your bypass tube. Is it tight around the throttle linkage?

I can actually "see" when my 180° T-Stat opens. When the temps get to ~ 185° the temp falls off to ~140° then swings back to ~200° before settling out at 180°f. Don't know how hot it gets at the back of the engine until the T-Stat opens but I don't "see" any real high temperatures on the gauge.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I drill two 1/8" holes in my stat, and it works fine.

A hot water heater would also make a good bypass system for the engine.
It also gives the added advantage of being an auxiliary radiator for someone with a borderline radiator.

[1955cj5]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

1955cj5, I hope when you drilled the thermostat, you used something larger than an 1/8" drill. IMO, minimum size should be one 1/4" hole to provide some coolant circulation with the thermostat closed.

The thermostat came with one hole already, and I added two more 1/8" holes.

With the radiator cap off, thermostat closed, there is lots of flow through the radiator.

It warms up rapidly enough so I don't think the "bypass" flow is excessive...

I expected the thermostat to be pushed up the hose to the radiator over time, but it happened almost immediately...gotta get one of Tom W's barbs....!

Randy

[Mitch//pa]

I use a piece of lower hose inside the upper to hold it in place.... I have a few laying around to cut up... Tom and I researched the extra holes which work well..

[AL in NY]

Y-blockhead - yes, the throttle linkage fits with no problem

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

I use a piece of lower hose inside the upper to hold it in place.... I have a few laying around to cut up... Tom and I researched the extra holes which work well..

They work well in the UPPER end of the hose, HEAT goes UP
I don't know about youse Guys & your "HOLES" Most have a dingle valve or a tiny hole, to prevent air lock & the valve isn't a "perfect" seal & the water pump pressure helps it to open a trifle.
I remember at least 3 times in the past, we've posted this same old stuff------AND, once I saw them being made, on, "HOW IT'S MADE"--------
SA Dad

[Slowplane]

[QUOTE=BILL WILLIAMSON;1260940]They work well in the UPPER end of the hose, HEAT goes UP

I put a stat in today, took it for a drive, and the stat climbed up to the top of the hose, stopping at the radiator neck. Is there any downside to this??
Thanks

[AL in NY]

Slowplane, the thermostat located in the upper part of the upper hose is, IMO, too far from the source of heat. Ideally, it should be in the engine block or the head. See post #17 for a new style waterneck outlet that puts the thermostat where it needs to be to perform correctly.

[inex01]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

Slowplane, the thermostat located in the upper part of the upper hose is, IMO, too far from the source of heat. Ideally, it should be in the engine block or the head. See post #17 for a new style waterneck outlet that puts the thermostat where it needs to be to perform correctly.

I installed the Vintage Precision unit last year and it is of very high quality, so easy to install and looks like it is original to the engine.

[freak]

Originally Posted by Slowplane

I put a stat in today, took it for a drive, and the stat climbed up to the top of the hose, stopping at the radiator neck. Is there any downside to this??
Thanks

Put a clamp around the hose where the stat is.

[Mitch//pa]

Use something in the hose as mentioned to hold the stat versus an unsightly clamp

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I drove Minerva about 12,000 miles with a 160 Degree, sleeved thermostat in the UPPER end of the UPPER hose & it worked PERFECT! HEAT GOES UP!
Bill Warm