Running out old babbit

[David R.]

Getting ready to pull crank and run out the old babbit in preparation for block going to machine shop. I haven’t done this before. Any thing I need to be aware of concerning removing the old babbit?

[100IH]

Let them do their job. If you want to see what comes out have them save it for you. It won't be used again anyway. Anyone who is regularly doing this work may want to see the wear patterns and the evidence of failure.

[David R.]

They probably don’t have anyone in their shop who’s ever seen babbit bearings.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Use a thin chisel to get between the main web and the soft metal and then pry it out. Use a screwdriver to assist prying it out if necessary. Then use a drill bit to clean the locking holes of any residual material. Don't overthink this.

[J and M Machine]

Originally Posted by David R.

They probably don’t have anyone in their shop who’s ever seen babbit bearings.

Reading your post this morning, If what you say is true above then you're going to the wrong place.!
You need to take the engine to a machine shop that can do the whole job and understand what a Model A engine is or at least "Know what babbitt looks like"!

[rotorwrench]

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I wouldn't take a job to a shop that hasn't done it before either and especially pouring babbitt bearings. There is too steep a learning curve on this type of work. In other words, it's a lot more complicated than it looks to be. Find a specialist near to you.

[Purdy Swoft]

If the people that work at this shop has never seen or worked with babbit , they probably won't be interested in doing such a job . I would first ask a few questions before I started prying against the babbit . I would think that the person that pours and finishes the new babbit should be the person that removes the old babbit , there could be a risk of messing something up .

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

You know, we are all making the assumption that David is going to have 'babbitt' re-poured in his AA engine. What if his intentions are for this new machine shop to line-bore the mains to accept insert shells? At that point, as long as they can read a micrometer and accurately set the cutter on a boring bar, it probably is a moot point whether the machinist(s) have ever seen babbitt.

So David, I know you said awhile back that your AA engine was awful gunky inside and needed a complete rebuild, but what are your plans with it now??

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[George Miller]

If they are going to put in inserts why not just bore the babbitt out, it works for me. I would not want the job after some one was messing with it. Ok I do not want it any-way.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by George Miller

I would not want the job after some one was messing with it. Ok I do not want it any-way.

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[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

I would do it myself. Not to just to save money, which you do. No body needs to see it. A 1000 engines will have a different ware pattern, and what ever you find is useless information.

Do not use a Chisel, and drill, unless your under a shade tree.

Either in a motor stand, as we do, or set it on a table, ground, propped up, so the mains are vertical, the first bearing, being the highest. Make sure you take out the Aluminum seal, first.

Start with the No. 1 bearing, and use a torch, with the largest tip on a Oxy-Acetylene, not cutting tip, like you see on You Tube and certainly, not a Rosebud. and start at the top of the bearing.

Wear a face shield never had one pop, but you know, Murphy's Law. Get close to the babbitt, with the inside flame, about a 1/2 inch, to an inch, away, from the babbitt. When you come to the Anchor Holes, it comes out with the main babbitt, 80%, of the time. If it doesn't, move on to the other mains, and then, go back to the anchors that didn't clean, some times, 1 or 2.

Using a torch to remove Babbitt, keeps Chisel marks and damage, Zero, chipped part line from happening.

Using the torch, no chisel marks, no cracks , way less labor, 45 seconds, to a minute. The best thing, it will remove the oil out of the Shells. You can even give a little more, if needed, if it doesn't smoke, it's done.

Herm.

[David R.]

The machine shop will be tanking block, cleaning, refacing valve seats, honing or boring cylinders, crankshaft work as needed etc.,. Another shop that specializes in babbit will do the pour and line boring.