1956 Ford gauge Cluster for my 55

[poolplayer1]

I was looking at this gauge cluster for the 56 ford. I am wondering if you guys think it might work on my 55 wagon. I am going to attach a picture of the cluster so you guys can look at it and maybe tell me whether you think it will work on my 55 wagon. Thanks

[5851a]

I wouldn't think so. Very different dash designs.

[34pickup]

55 and 56 dashes are about as far apart as Ford and Chevy.

[1956 ford]

You need a 1956 dash they are very easy to get

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by 1956 ford

You need a 1956 dash they are very easy to get

Correct. You would need a complete 1956 INSTRUMENT/DASH PANEL for update and then you would have to fight the 6V to 12V horror show.

[poolplayer1]

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Well, there goes that idea out the door. I noticed that the gauge cluster for the 55 T-Bird is almost the same as the one in my wagon. Maybe I can see if I can find a digital one for the T-Bird. The Fuel gauge for sure is way off in my cluster. The temp. and oil no not work.
I have those gauges under the dash. There is a big salvage yard here in town but most of the clusters are gone and the ones that are left behind are damaged. Do any of you have a digital cluster in your car or wagon that can give me some info on where you bought them? Thanks guys for all you help.
I just saw your post KULTULZ so if thats the case, I would not want to do that.

[KULTULZ]

The 55 FORD has that GAWD-AWFUL ASTRA-DIAL INSTRUMENT CLUSTER which personally gives me the creeps. The 56/57 BIRD used basically the same INSTRUMENT CLUSTER as the 56 FORD.

The 56 FORD complete panel changeover is common and if your gauges don't work to start with, a 12V UPGRADE may be a consideration.

[paul2748]

Horror show ???? 6 to 12 changeover is not that difficult

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Correct. You would need a complete 1956 INSTRUMENT/DASH PANEL for update and then you would have to fight the 6V to 12V horror show.

[paul2748]

56 Birds used the same dash as the 55 Bird. In 57, the Birds went to the 56 sedan type . I have the astra-dial dash in my 54 Victoria and 56 Bird and I love them.

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

The 55 FORD has that GAWD-AWFUL ASTRA-DIAL INSTRUMENT CLUSTER which personally gives me the creeps. The 56/57 BIRD used basically the same INSTRUMENT CLUSTER as the 56 FORD.

The 56 FORD complete panel changeover is common and if your gauges don't work to start with, a 12V UPGRADE may be a consideration.

[poolplayer1]

Thanks guys for your input. I converted my wagon from 6 volt to 12 volts about 10 years ago so it is ready for a 12 volt cluster. Paul, do you have a picture of the astra-dial dash that I can look at? I'm trying to find something that I can put in my dash where I can see all the gauges instead of having to look down under the dash to read the gauges.

[miker98038]

Going thru the 55 cluster isn’t all that difficult, aside from getting it out. The 55 6 volt gauges aren’t that hard to get, the Tbird suppliers have them. Not cheap, but cheaper than a conversion. Or the 55 6 volts can use the 57 and up voltage drop device if the wagon has been converted to 12 volts.

You have to do some digging (I may have it someplace) but those old King Seeley gauges are adjustable, but best done on a work bench. Bit touchy, but doable.

The 56 gauges (or 57 for that matter) aren’t any better IMHO. They are better looking. I’d have put a 57 set up in my bird, but it was just too much work and money. Because of the clock/tach, the dash needs changing and I couldn’t find one.

If you need help with the gauges, start a post. The oil is just a light, if it’s not working it’s either wiring or the sender. The gas gauge should be pretty simple to get close, and I never trust an old one below 1/4 tank anyway. (Actually I never trust any of them. I picked up a brand new car from a dealer last week, and it read full. I got 2 gallons in before it shut off). Likewise the temp gauge. With a digital thermometer you know what it means for what’s normal, so you only need to get concerned when it warming up or goes over. On mine, it’s pegged before the car boils, so it isn’t that useful when working.

As for those who don’t like the Ass tra-Dial, do you know how much those fancy heads up displays cost in new cars? Hell, my bird has one every time the sun comes out or I go under a street light in the dark. Ahead of his time Henry was.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by paul2748

Horror show ???? 6 to 12 changeover is not that difficult

Try re-reading my post without moving your lips.

Now, let's say a successful conversion is difficult.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by paul2748

56 Birds used the same dash as the 55 Bird. In 57, the Birds went to the 56 sedan type . I have the astra-dial dash in my 54 Victoria and 56 Bird and I love them.

I am just so happy for you ...

When you say 'dash', are you referring to the instrument cluster or the complete instrument dash panel?

Below (ATTACHED) is a 1955 BIRD ASTRA-DIAL (FORD) INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. It is not the same as a 1956 or 1957 BIRD - (- EDIT - WRONG AGAIN

ASTRA-DIAL - HEMMINGS - https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/1955-ford

It would be nice if everyone could get on the same level describing something as a simple as a car.

The first one I saw was in a friends 1954 FORD (this was about 1963). I could not get over how archaic the damn thing looked then. But I recovered, I survived.

Then it really happened, I saw for the first time an H4000 carbetrator. I was blind for a week. And then (when sober) I actually bought a damn 55 BIRD. What a piece of mechanical crap that was. Between the no run, hemorrhoid burning 6V nightmare that it was, I finally took a couple booster shots of penicillin and ridded myself of that nightmare.

I understand their worth, but I would never want another one of them. The damn engine is held upright with ski-poles.

[miker98038]

Sorry K, the 56 bird carried over the 55 dash. Minor change in the adjustable column, and probably the upper (sliding) shaft for the dished wheel. Visible by a shorter adjustment collar. The 57 got the good dash, but because of the tach/clock layout in 55-56, it’s either change the whole dash or a bunch of metal work.

FWIW, the picture you show is exactly what mine looked like when I bought it, except mine was a T-86 o/d, with a different shifter. It’s also either a special order or not correct, the 55 green interior had a dark green vinyl on the dash and upper garnish moldings, and on the trim behind the seat for the drop cloth.

I like mine, but every year its harder to get in and out of.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by miker98038

Sorry K, the 56 bird carried over the 55 dash. Minor change in the adjustable column, and probably the upper (sliding) shaft

I stand corrected. My mistake. Thank You.

I love the 1956 FORD INSTRUMENT PANEL. It contributes to a beautiful car.

Sorry for retaining water buy I just came back off a mild foray over at the H.A.M.Bone and had a few drag-out/knock-downs over there. I am going to keep it up until VAPOR LOCK sets in.

Too damn old to get all riled up.

I think it is time for a sabbatical.

[miker98038]

No big deal, I’ve seen that too. With McNamara around, the little birds were a step child, and the 58 was the result. Even Edsel couldn’t get by him.

[poolplayer1]

Thanks guys for all your input on my subject. That gauge cluster on the 55 T-Bird looks just like the one on my wagon. I am going to try to repair the different gauges on my cluster and hopefully get all of them working so that they are all in their origional position. There is a guy named Bob's Speedometers on the web that has a complete refurbished 55 T-Bird Gauge Cluster for $ 1350.00 Thats more than I want to spend ( Or can even afford).
The main problem would be the fuel gauge. I don't know how but one of the terminals on the rear of the gauge has pulled out of the inside of the gauge and the wire is just hanging out. There is a guy on Epay that has a used gauge out of a 56 ford fairlane that he wants 25.00 for but he says he does not know if it works or not, so I would just be taking a chance and maybe loosing 25.00 plus tax and shipping. He did say that 12V is stamped on the body of the gauge. I might take a chance on that one.

[KULTULZ]

Please tell me you have a 1955 FORD WORKSHOP MANUAL to help you diagnose the system(s).

1955-1956-1957 are different animals and do not play well with one another.

[poolplayer1]

I have one of the origional 55 ford manuals, about 65 years old but most of the words are pretty well faded out and therefore I cannot read all of the wording. Which book do you think would be of good use to me for my 55 ford ranch wagon? Than I can go looking for that specific book and order it. As Usual, thank you.
PS, Thats ok if you have to yell, scream or whatever, I will always appreciate all of your help and knowledge that you are giving. The same for all the other guys here that are willing to help me when I need some help. Its all greatly appreciated.

[paul2748]

Only the speedo had the clear piece. The rest of the gauges are down below that. Google 1954 Ford dashboard and 1956 Thunderbird dashboard. Oil pressure and voltage are idiot lights.

Originally Posted by poolplayer1

Thanks guys for your input. I converted my wagon from 6 volt to 12 volts about 10 years ago so it is ready for a 12 volt cluster. Paul, do you have a picture of the astra-dial dash that I can look at? I'm trying to find something that I can put in my dash where I can see all the gauges instead of having to look down under the dash to read the gauges.

[paul2748]

Yup WRONG AGAIN

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

I am just so happy for you ...

When you say 'dash', are you referring to the instrument cluster or the complete instrument dash panel?

Below (ATTACHED) is a 1955 BIRD ASTRA-DIAL (FORD) INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. It is not the same as a 1956 or 1957 BIRD - (- EDIT - WRONG AGAIN

ASTRA-DIAL - HEMMINGS - https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/1955-ford

It would be nice if everyone could get on the same level describing something as a simple as a car.

The first one I saw was in a friends 1954 FORD (this was about 1963). I could not get over how archaic the damn thing looked then. But I recovered, I survived.

Then it really happened, I saw for the first time an H4000 carbetrator. I was blind for a week. And then (when sober) I actually bought a damn 55 BIRD. What a piece of mechanical crap that was. Between the no run, hemorrhoid burning 6V nightmare that it was, I finally took a couple booster shots of penicillin and ridded myself of that nightmare.

I understand their worth, but I would never want another one of them. The damn engine is held upright with ski-poles.

[KULTULZ]

Which book do you think would be of good use to me for my 55 ford ranch wagon? Than I can go looking for that specific book and order it.

CD or USB -

https://www.detroitironis.com/ford_cds.html

[poolplayer1]

Thanks Paul. I went to the local salvage yard yesterday to look around and see if they had any 55 or 56 wagons and I saw a 56 wagon which had most of the parts gone, including the fuel sending unit. I did however see that the fuel gauge was still there so I took it out and when I did, at the bottom of the gauge was stamped 12 volts. That I guess means that this wagon was one of the 56 that was origionally a 12 v system. Too bad the sending unit was gone otherwise I would of bought both as a matched pair. Anyway, I am going to install this gauge in the morning on my wagon but I have a question for you or anybody that can answer my question. Since the wires on the back of my gauge are just hanging down out of the gauge itself, when I connect the two wires to the good gauge, does it matter which wire goes where? In other words, can I connect the powered wire to any terminal on the gauge or does it go only to one of the specific terminal on the gauge? I know one is the 12 volt and the other is the sender.

[miker98038]

Poolplayer1, here’s the link to that old King Seeley post. To the best of my knowledge and experience, it’s accurate. Bergman had some other posts in more detail, but they seem to have vanished. But they may come up with the right search. I’m not very good at that.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic22135-1.aspx

If your vehicle is still 6 volts, that’s “A”. If it’s converted to 12, that’s “B” and another set of answers. But to the best of my knowledge you cannot mix the oem 6volt sender, fuel or temp, with the 12 volt gauge. The thermal characteristics are going to be different as the milliamperes remain the same but the voltage increases.

Also note the comment in the thread thread about grounding at the fuel tank sender. I’ve seen a lot of comments over the years where that was the problem.

If you go search King Seeley a lot of the comments come up on Jeep and other sites. But that’s ok, the operating and trouble shooting are pretty much the same.

You should be able to put together the right parts and get things so they read close enough to use. I’m mainly concerned about the real engine temp (from an infrared thermometer) when it gets well into the hot range. And I want to know when there’s a 1/4 tank left so I can go looking for a gas station. If you can live with that, I know you can get there.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by poolplayer1

... Since the wires on the back of my gauge are just hanging down out of the gauge itself, when I connect the two wires to the good gauge, does it matter which wire goes where? In other words, can I connect the powered wire to any terminal on the gauge or does it go only to one of the specific terminal on the gauge? I know one is the 12 volt and the other is the sender.

No it doesn't matter, it's a heating coil. See photo 1.
Whichever wire locations make for cleaner looking installation.

Here's a link to a page about 6v to 12 conversion. It's written for '55 T-Birds but much of it should apply to what you're up to over there.

https://www.ctci.org/battery-for-6v-to-12v-conversion/

The style of the face of the gauges changed between years and models. I believe 55's are the same from full-sized car to T-bird. In '56 the full-sized cars got an updated dash cluster (it looks similar to the '57 T-bird dash but isn't) and the '56 T-bird dash cluster wasn't updated from '55, except electrically. And would look virtually the same as the dash cluster in your '55, if you go that way.
Fyi the '55/'56 T-bird speedometers display to 150 and the full-sized cars 120 mph.

The '55/'56 King-Seeley gauges and sensors function on heat generated by current flow thru switching contacts in the sensor. Not a variable resistor like the '57+ sensors have. Photo 2.

They are not polarity sensitive but the '55, '56 & '57 gauges & sensors are one-year-only and work as matched pairs. The electrical design of the parts for each year are different from the others, not interchangeable except as pairs. '56 Temp sensors 'may' be marked 12v, since they look virtually the same as '55 & earlier.
If you find any of them, the '57+ style sensors are smaller than the earlier versions. Photo 3.

'55 was designed for 6v, '56 gauges operated on full 12 volts and '57 while the vehicles were 12v the gauges had a switching voltage regulator/reducer so they operate at approx 6 to 8 'average' volts.

Originally Posted by poolplayer1

I was looking at this gauge cluster for the 56 ford. I am wondering if you guys think it might work on my 55 wagon. I am going to attach a picture of the cluster so you guys can look at it and maybe tell me whether you think it will work on my 55 wagon. Thanks

It might be easier to swap in the whole dashboard shell from a '56 full-sized car into your '55 if you don't want to fabricate the hood that goes over the cluster??? Example photos 4 & 5.

[1956 ford]

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1956 dash is a 6v gauge that is y they use a dash regulator from 12v to 6v between ign
And gauges

[1956 ford]

If you need the dash I have them

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by 1956 ford

1956 dash is a 6v gauge that is y they use a dash regulator from 12v to 6v between ign
And gauges

'56 didn't originally use a voltage regulator like '57+ did. '56 was originally a full 12 volt setup for the Fuel & Temp gauges. Which may not have worked as they'd hoped since it was changed for '57.

[paul2748]

Incorrect. All 56's used 12 volt gauges and no reducer/regulator. In 57 Ford went back to 6 volt gauges and used a regulator

Originally Posted by 1956 ford

1956 dash is a 6v gauge that is y they use a dash regulator from 12v to 6v between ign
And gauges

[KULTULZ]

It is still open to debate after all of these years and changeovers.

[poolplayer1]

Thanks to all for your great help. Man, if I just had half the knowledge that you guys have, I would be a great mechanic, which I'm sure you guys are. So, since the fuel gauge that I just bought came out of a 56 and since it reads 12 volt on its body, I will just wire the 12v directly to the gauge without the regulator. Now, the fuel tank sending unit that I am using right now (according to Macs) can be used with eighter a 6 volt or a 12 volt system. ( I don't really think it works right)
If this sending unit does not work correctly, should I look for a 56 ford wagon unit? That would be a 12 volt unit which would be comparable to my 12 volt gauge,correct?
From what I understand, the 55 cars had a 17 gallon tank where as the wagon had a 19 gallon tank. So, looking for a sending unit from a 55 car would not work in my wagon. Thanks to all of you for the links .

[miker98038]

In terms of the sender, the important part is the depth of the tank, assuming it’s a regular rectangular tank. Often times the arm will need to be bent so the float rests just above the bottom. If you’ve got an access plate to the tank when installed (the birds do, I don’t know about the cars and wagons) you can measure it and figure it out. I prefer a wooden ruler, metal on metal sparks in a open tank aren’t good. Then you can connect it, run a ground jumper, and see where it reads. Don’t forget the King Seeley’s have some reaction time, so be patient.

I don’t know what you’ve got from Mac’s, but there’s been numerous complaints of senders that don’t work because they are not matched to the King Seeley’s.

Yes, 56 sender is the only option for a 56 gauge. I know the Thunderbird guys sell the right one, and maybe they can be adapted. If someone with a bird apart can give you the mounting hole size and the depth, that would tell the story.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by poolplayer1

... If this sending unit does not work correctly, should I look for a 56 ford wagon unit? That would be a 12 volt unit which would be comparable to my 12 volt gauge,correct?
From what I understand, the 55 cars had a 17 gallon tank where as the wagon had a 19 gallon tank. So, looking for a sending unit from a 55 car would not work in my wagon. Thanks to all of you for the links .

A '55 sensor connected to a '56 gauge? I believe it won't work correctly, but never say never.
New replacement wagon specific sensors may or may not be available, I've never looked.

You may have to make do with the '56 'car' version sensor that should(?) look nearly the same and have the same mounting flange as a '55 wagon part but be marked 12 volt. Bending the float arm down slightly to get more accurate readings toward the bottom of the larger tank may work out? Knowing how close to empty it really is, is what you need.
.

[poolplayer1]

The guy from the wrecking yard called me this morning to tell me that he just got a 56 Ford Country sedan that still has the fuel sending unit in it. I asked him if could check the Vin or serial # to make sure it is a 56 and not 55 or 57. He called me back and told me it was a 56 for sure because the vin starts with M6 which he said the M stands for engine size and meant it was a 292 and the 6 for 1956. So, if I get this sending unit from this wagon, it should be a 12 volt sender, right? Since the fuel gauge came from a 56 wagon and is marked 12 volt, they should communicate with each other at least to give me a decent true reading. Are there any markings on this sender I should look for so that I can make it is 12 volt? Or, how else can I find out if this wagon is 12 volt or 6 volt. Of course there will be no battery on it. That would tell the story.
Let me know what you guys think.

[paul2748]

I repeat what I said - all 56 Fords were 12 volts. Period. Cars, trucks and Thunderbirds. Others have said the same thing.


Chances are that the wagon sending unit is different than a regular sedan as the tanks are different but I don't know for sure..

Originally Posted by poolplayer1

The guy from the wrecking yard called me this morning to tell me that he just got a 56 Ford Country sedan that still has the fuel sending unit in it. I asked him if could check the Vin or serial # to make sure it is a 56 and not 55 or 57. He called me back and told me it was a 56 for sure because the vin starts with M6 which he said the M stands for engine size and meant it was a 292 and the 6 for 1956. So, if I get this sending unit from this wagon, it should be a 12 volt sender, right? Since the fuel gauge came from a 56 wagon and is marked 12 volt, they should communicate with each other at least to give me a decent true reading. Are there any markings on this sender I should look for so that I can make it is 12 volt? Or, how else can I find out if this wagon is 12 volt or 6 volt. Of course there will be no battery on it. That would tell the story.
Let me know what you guys think.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by poolplayer1

The guy from the wrecking yard called me this morning to tell me that he just got a 56 Ford Country sedan that still has the fuel sending unit in it. ......
Let me know what you guys think.

If it were me and he wants a reasonable price for it, I'd buy it.

[poolplayer1]

Thanks Guys. I went over saturday to buy the fuel sender from a 56 country sedan wagon. I will probably start installing it tomorrow. Hopefully it will work out ok for me.
I'll let you know.