Checking blocks for condition Pressure testing

[Ronnieroadster]

There's many steps involved in checking a blocks condition to be sure there's no hidden surprises. After checking the surfaces for cracks with the mag checker the next extremally important test takes place. Here's a picture showing this important next step.

Pressure Testing some recent arrivals in the shop. Here's how its being done this plate is universal can be used on 21 and 24 bolt blocks. No need to remove studs for this test on any 1948 and earlier blocks.
Ronnieroadster

[HopRod]

Yes, I learned that lesson the hard way. I now have my own testing plates too. I like the one you have there. Do you do a leak down test or are you using a soap bubble method too? How high do you pressurize the blocks?

[rockfla]

Ronnie
Here is the pressure plates and neoprene gaskets one of my good customers water jet cut for me for 21 stud, there shouldn't be a problem laying a 24 stud gasket over and drill holes for that as well, right??? That way I have both bases covered.

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by rockfla

Ronnie
Here is the pressure plates and neoprene gaskets one of my good customers water jet cut for me for 21 stud, there shouldn't be a problem laying a 24 stud gasket over and drill holes for that as well, right??? That way I have both bases covered.

I thought about doing that with the Offenhauser 24 bolt plate I have but what I discovered is there's water holes along the front and rear edges of each block are in different locations. This is a problem where the 24 bolt pattern bolt holes locate over a water hole on the 21 bolt surface thus creating a big leak. So those bolt holes on the 24 pattern need to be closed to test the 21 stud block. And the same problem happens with the 21 bolt pattern water holes being located in the area of the 24 bolt pattern. Another big leak. Boy this is confusing to write down correctly hopefully its understandable.

The plate I use if you look closely has pipe plugs along the front and rear that close off the holes in the locations of the block water holes. The holes on 24 pattern on this plate in the water hole area have pipe plug threads so four plugs on the plate are moved to the four holes needing to be closed off.

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by HopRod

Yes, I learned that lesson the hard way. I now have my own testing plates too. I like the one you have there. Do you do a leak down test or are you using a soap bubble method too? How high do you pressurize the blocks?

Soapy water bubble method works ever time I use 30 PSI I have found that's plenty to find any issues.

[rockfla]

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Originally Posted by Ronnieroadster

I thought about doing that with the Offenhauser 24 bolt plate I have but what I discovered is there's water holes along the front and rear edges of each block are in different locations. This is a problem where the 24 bolt pattern bolt holes locate over a water hole on the 21 bolt surface thus creating a big leak. So those bolt holes on the 24 pattern need to be closed to test the 21 stud block. And the same problem happens with the 21 bolt pattern water holes being located in the area of the 24 bolt pattern. Another big leak. Boy this is confusing to write down correctly hopefully its understandable.

The plate I use if you look closely has pipe plugs along the front and rear that close off the holes in the locations of the block water holes. The holes on 24 pattern on this plate in the water hole area have pipe plug threads so four plugs on the plate are moved to the four holes needing to be closed off.

SO....short of the long, get another set cut for the 24 stud!!! Got it!!

[bobH]

Curiosity question here... Perhaps for Ronnie.... My example, 59A, and the leak (big leak) is in the exhaust port, right front, up in where you know the leak is there, but you can't see it. So, the conclusion here has been that it is 'fatal', non-visible, non fixable. Other opinions?

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by bobH

Curiosity question here... Perhaps for Ronnie.... My example, 59A, and the leak (big leak) is in the exhaust port, right front, up in where you know the leak is there, but you can't see it. So, the conclusion here has been that it is 'fatal', non-visible, non fixable. Other opinions?

Sadly if its up in the port there's no fix for that. The block would be good for a competition application where the block is filled solid for additional strength thus running a dry block only cooling would be in the head's.
Ronnieroadster

[bobH]

Thank You

[Mart]

Ronnie, would it be possible to post a bigger version of your block off plate picture? Even full size it is still not very easy to see the details.
If you could, that would be great.
Thanks.
Mart.

[glennpm]

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by Ronnieroadster

There's many steps involved in checking a blocks condition to be sure there's no hidden surprises. After checking the surfaces for cracks with the mag checker the next extremally important test takes place. Here's a picture showing this important next step.

Pressure Testing some recent arrivals in the shop. Here's how its being done this plate is universal can be used on 21 and 24 bolt blocks. No need to remove studs for this test on any 1948 and earlier blocks.
Ronnieroadster

It's nice to test the early blocks with the studs still in. It's nasty to remove the studs and find out it is no good when you pressure test it.

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by Mart

Ronnie, would it be possible to post a bigger version of your block off plate picture? Even full size it is still not very easy to see the details.
If you could, that would be great.
Thanks.
Mart.

Hi Mart I certainly can post a better picture. At the moment its still on the block pictured once I have it off I will take some pictures and post them.
Ronnieroadster

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

It's nice to test the early blocks with the studs still in. It's nasty to remove the studs and find out it is no good when you pressure test it.

Great point, Jack.

[Ronnieroadster]

Here's some pictures of the universal Ford flathead pressure testing plate for 21 and 24 stud blocks. Note along the front and rear edges the various holes required to accommodate the differences of the water holes and bolt patterns between the 21 and 24 stud blocks. Three holes on each end require a pipe plug thread to seal the plate correctly against the water hole differences.
Ronnieroadster

[GB SISSON]

The blocks I need to test are all 24 stud blocks. Would a plate made for 24 studs work for both 59ab style as well as 8ba? If not, what would I need to address? A friend of mine has a plasma table and can cut up to 1" plate. I'm guessing 1/2" would be plenty.

[38 coupe]

There is the difference in the front water passages on the 8BA, but if you make the plate to cover that it probably would work on both 59A and 8BA. A cardboard template and a block of each type should tell the tale.

[deuce5wndw]

Have him use a 8BA head gasket to cut your plate and you can do both 8BA blocks and 59a blocks.

[deuce5wndw]

First photo is a 59a head on a 8BA and the second is the speedway plate that has the tab on the front to cover the 8BA extra hole or use on a 59A block.

[GB SISSON]

Excellent, thanks guys. His wife runs the table and does all the programming. Once it's in the computor can she make a bunch more by pushing a few buttons? Also what's a good thickness plate?