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10-29-2015, 09:04 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Rector, AR
Posts: 167
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36' model 51 1/1/2 ton. Rear wheels removal
I'm taking the wheels off to get cleaned and the new tires installed. I've got the outside duals off easily. I was told I'd have to remove these studs to get the inside ones off. It looks to me they just set on there, but they are in there tight. I wanted to double check before I bring the big hammer out? Thanks. Bret.
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10-29-2015, 09:14 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Rector, AR
Posts: 167
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Re: 36' model 51 1/1/2 ton. Rear wheels removal
Never mind figured it out. Lol
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10-29-2015, 09:15 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: San Luis Obispo
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Re: 36' model 51 1/1/2 ton. Rear wheels removal
Those are what are called thimbles, they are threaded on, if there is a R or and L stamped on the end of them that is the direction you turn them to tighten, turn the oposite direction to remove them
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10-29-2015, 10:12 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Now in Wichita, KS
Posts: 251
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Re: 36' model 51 1/1/2 ton. Rear wheels removal
ABento is correct although I've not heard of inner lug nuts referred to as “thimbles”.
Outer lug nuts are 1-1/2” hex and inner lug nuts/thimbles are 13/16” square. Each side of Ford trucks should have the same thread direction - Left-Hand or Right-Hand threads. Off-hand, I can't remember which side is which without looking at my truck. The standard LH thread studs and inner lug nuts should be stamped “L”. RH studs and inner lug nuts should be stamped “R”. Do not assume the studs/inner lug nuts will be marked “L” or “R” as some replacement may not share this convention. One way to check the thread direction with your fingernail - whichever direction you turn that causes your finger to move away from the wheel is the direction to loosen the nut. One Giant Warning - do not assume the studs are all the same on each wheel. My COE had one stud replaced on one wheel that was opposite of the other four. If you use a big lever or impact wrench you risk over-tightening the nut or spinning the stud in the drum/hub. Check the thread direction for each nut the first time you remove them and note any anomalies. Last thing: When removing dual rear wheels, sometimes the inner nut loosens and the outer nut stays fastened to the wheel on the inner lug nut. This leaves the outer nut and inner nut trapped on the wheel with no apparent way to remove them. If this occurs, you need a “pork chop” which is more correctly called a “cap wheel nut wrench”. You place one of these over the outer lug nut and the tab on the wrench locks against the center hole of the wheel. Then you loosen the inner nut with another wrench. One look at the wrench and this should be obvious. Ken-Tool makes a cap nut wrench that fit the 1-1/2 inch outer lug nuts on our Fords - part numbers are TX9 (standard version) or TX200 (heavy duty version which you probably won’t need). Both are Made in USA. Hope this helps. |
10-29-2015, 10:57 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rochester, Il
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Re: 36' model 51 1/1/2 ton. Rear wheels removal
The industry name for them is "inner cap nuts". They look like big thimbles. Hope a picture helps. Stu
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Stu McMillan Marmon-Herringtons |
10-29-2015, 01:02 PM | #6 |
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Location: Rector, AR
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Re: 36' model 51 1/1/2 ton. Rear wheels removal
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10-29-2015, 06:02 PM | #7 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oregon City, OR
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Re: 36' model 51 1/1/2 ton. Rear wheels removal
Quote:
My 1934 Model BB 1 1/2 ton truck has right hand threads on the right (passenger) side and left hand threads on the left (driver side). |
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10-29-2015, 07:48 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Yellville,AR
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Re: 36' model 51 1/1/2 ton. Rear wheels removal
MGG is correct, the left hand nuts should be on the left / drivers side and the right hand on the right. If they are not, someone has swapped sides with the hubs.
Mark |
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