Installing Starter motor

[AnthonyG]

Starter came out easy, reinstall fighting me. Getting gear past flywheel gear a struggle? Any tips or tricks? I’ve got 5/16-18 nuts holding starter case on. When if take them off to install the case keeps sliding almost releasing brushes & springs? Need three hands, lol.

[51504bat]

New style or original style bendix? 8ba or earlier block? The reason I ask is that I know from experience the new style bendix can be a difficult install on an 8ba. Not sure about earlier blocks. I was able to wiggle it in after a fight on the 8ba in a '40 truck I had but I've read that some have had to resort to some custom grinding to make the new style bendix fit. On the other hand the new 12 volt starter with an original style bendix went in with no issues in the 8ba in my '39 p/u.

[19Fordy]

Picture 10 in the thread below shows how a little tab was made to hold the case and the front starter plate together for easy install and removal as the little tab remains in place on the starter after it's installed. It's still working fine. Engine is 8BA in a 40. Starter is Ford style Bendix drive.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ng+starter+12v

[AnthonyG]

Its an 8BA, don’t know diff between old & new style? Included pic, not sure u can tell? Starter was on engine originally. I did engine work that required removal. So it’s been installed & this is reinstall. Does the newer style u speak of keep the case bolted together while installing?

[19Fordy]

Look at post #4 in thread below. It shows an OEM style BENDIX 8BA starter fitting behind the fly wheel of an 8BA engine with an 8BA flywheel. You have to tilt starter at a little angle to slide it in so that the Bendix gear will mesh with the flywheel gear. Then it will bolt right up. If you're laying on your back under the car, the starter get's a lot heavier!
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ng+starter+12v

The original style Bendix starter is shown in photo 11 in
the first post on the link mentioned above.

[JSeery]

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Originally Posted by AnthonyG

Its an 8BA, don’t know diff between old & new style?

Here is the difference between the old and new style Bendix.

[1931 flamingo]

Wish I'd seen the post about the retaining clip last year................
Paul in CT

[alanwoodieman]

I use a soft copper wire wrapped around the starter bolt to hold together and then after bolts are started just pull wire out

[AnthonyG]

Having seen the diff between the new & old style now I see the start gear is an easier install. But would I be assuming correctly the new is an easier install via ‘case remains fastened together’ during install or is the same loose case condition involved?

[flathead4rd]

Go with the old style Bendix. I've heard several complaints about the new style.

[19Fordy]

flathead 4rd is correct. No matter what the "case is", use the starter with the Henry Ford style original Bendix drive. They have been working good since 1932.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

Having seen the diff between the new & old style now I see the start gear is an easier install. But would I be assuming correctly the new is an easier install via ‘case remains fastened together’ during install or is the same loose case condition involved?

Doesn't make any difference which Bendix you use the case remains the same. The new style Bendix is often more difficult to install, clearance issues that may require grinding to clear.

[AnthonyG]

QUOTE=alanwoodieman;1894007]I use a soft copper wire wrapped around the starter bolt to hold together and then after bolts are started just pull wire out[/QUOTE]

I’ll b installing original old style I removed. I do like alanwoodieman‘s idea w the copper wire holding together till bolts r started.

[tubman]

I use a square piece of plastic (like cut from a 1/2 gallon ice cream container) with a hole in it like a nut. It doesn't take much to hold it together.

[Andy]

I put masking tape on the starter case and the bell housing. I put alignment marks on them so I could line the case up so the bolts could be started. It sure made it easier for me to install the starter

[Talkwrench]

Just put gaffa tape around the outside of the assembly so it doesn't come apart, bolt it all up and then peel tape off. Usually I have no problems, I remember putting on a standard pan on the pilot engine so I could use a standard stater, it was a little difficult to get the stater on and I did grind a little bit to make it easier to get on. I dont think there's much of a difference between 21's and 24's..?

[RKS.PA]

I use a little duct tape to hold the starter together....and then leave it on to remind me that the next time I take it off, be careful to not let it come apart. Sometimes it's a bitch to put back together and a job I probably don't need!! JMO!!

[AnthonyG]

On removing & now trying to reinstall the case did slide about 1/8”-1/4” before I slid back to correct position. I didn’t feel or hear anything dislodge. Any chance anything came apart? Thinking I’ll do a Clamp on bench & check applying voltage to make sure?

[chap52]

Anthony,
If it didn't pull apart far enough on removal for the brushes to slide off the shaft, your good. Test: if the pieces slide back together without a gap the brushes are still correctly seated.
No big deal if the come off and actually while you have it off I would check the brushes for wear. With a little wiggling and a long pick you can get them back in place. As I remember you can set the brushes behind the brush holders, slip the case together and move the brushes into their holders with a small screwdriver through the inspection hole.
Don't forget that little bracket piece between the starter and a pan bolt. Don't ask! Chap

[Robert/Texas]

I installed a "stump puller" starter that I bought from Speedway on my '34 roadster some years ago. My reason for this was that with 12 volts, I had broken the Bendix twice and I needed to remove the right header (welded up tubing) each time. The advantages of this are that this starter is extremely light weight, there is no Bendix to deal with and it hits on the front of the flywheel which I assume has little wear compared to the rear. The disadvantages are the price and that it is ugly.

[19Fordy]

Does the stump puller starter you speak off properly engage the bevel on flywheel teeth?

[AnthonyG]

Thx Chap52, case is seated fully no gap so I’m good. As it’s on secured on my bench already I’ll make sure it runs to b sure. It only had approx 2000 miles on it so I’m sure brushes r good. Ran /started car great before removal.
Thx all for the help!

[Paul Bennett]

I found the three hand difficulty was largely due to having to hold 20# with a weakening arm hold, then trying to wiggle the starter into place.

I built a starter holder using an old scissor jack - see my post here somewhere with photos titled "I Just Installed My 20# Starter By Myself - Easily - $4 Tool"
A search will find it.

[JSeery]

Here are the photos:

[Robert/Texas]

19Fordy

I didn't do anything but install the "stump puller" in 02/2011 so I don't know the answer to your question. It has been working fine though. I still have the old starter to use if I ever need to.

Robert/Texas

[Overkill-F1]

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Originally Posted by JSeery

Here are the photos:

Is the black part that is attached to the jack, a plastic ABS fitting.? It looks like a coupler for (4"?) ABS pipe?
Terry

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Overkill-F1

Is the black part that is attached to the jack, a plastic ABS fitting.? It looks like a coupler for (4"?) ABS pipe?
Terry

I don't know, I just posted the photos, Paul built it. I can look back at his original post.

"If you have a sissors jack (and who doesn't) buy a 4.5" plastic disposal pipe joint (ABS perhaps) for about $4 at any hardware store. The starter is 4.5" diameter as is the ID of the joint you purchase. It has a raised rib inside soas the pipes it joins are centered. Remove this rib with your dremmel or equivalent tool, then cut a minor section from the pipe joint. More than half but less than 3/4 (see pic). Fasten the 60% part (tossing the 40% part) to the top of the jack. I drilled and tapped for 6-32 screws. The starter will snap into the holder atop the jack. When done you can remove the screws and easily store the pipe section."

[Overkill-F1]

Originally Posted by JSeery

I don't know, I just posted the photos, Paul built it. I can look back at his original post.

"If you have a sissors jack (and who doesn't) buy a 4.5" plastic disposal pipe joint (ABS perhaps) for about $4 at any hardware store. The starter is 4.5" diameter

JSeery,
Thanks for looking that up, seems like a good idea.
Terry

[AnthonyG]

I liked the scissor jack idea & kinda used the idea modified to what I had w a small rolling hydraulic jack. Drilled holes in the lift cup & used 14 gauge house wire stripped to attach starter to cup on jack. Worked good. Took weight off the 70 yr old arms & back! Was able to get height right raising & lowering & easy to angle & jiggle gear past ring gear. After starting bolts & snugging snipped wire & pulled them out.
Thx for the idea, will stay on my trick list