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Old 09-09-2020, 01:36 PM   #21
JSeery
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Default Re: oil filter restriction orifice

Quote:
Originally Posted by earlyride View Post
What I said was you should leave it as originally designed, restrictor in the inlet side. The oil does drain out of the filter canister, in my beehive the oil is almost all drained when sitting, suspect it drains back down the inlet also, so if I were to modify this and install the restrictor in the return instead of the inlet, as two members stated, you would loose oil pressure on start up while the canister fills
Ok, thanks for the clarification, I agree 100% on the restrictor being on the inlet side. And, ya, the beehive is a different animal. But an original canister won't drain down much at all, but any is probably not a good deal on startup. With a beehive it could become a much bigger issue. If it was me, this is one I would leave to the original engineers, inlet side.
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Old 09-10-2020, 06:28 AM   #22
mrlaser
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Default Re: oil filter restriction orifice

Just for some clarification, the restrictor fitting that I posted a picture of previously is 1/8' fnpt x 1/8"fnpt. It is not an inverted flair like the original. The other fitting in the picture is a "T" type fitting that I closed using a 1/4" long piece of copper rod which I silver brazed in place and then drilled to the 1/16" specification. I used the "T" to move the oil pressure sender to a more accessible location and to add another "T" for adding a mechanical oil pressure gauge. I'm sorry that I didn't point that out originally.
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Old 09-10-2020, 09:18 AM   #23
Zeke3
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Default Re: oil filter restriction orifice

Mr. Laser, that is a nice looking installation, but I am not in favor of the long copper standoff. The copper tube will work harden from the engine vibrations and the effect of the mass of the sensor and fittings at the top. The tube will be prone to failure at the threaded connection at the base.
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Old 09-11-2020, 06:37 AM   #24
mrlaser
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Default Re: oil filter restriction orifice

Zeke3,

Thank you for your advice. I actually only added the mechanical gauge when I thought that the original gauge was non functional. Access to the original sender was difficult, so I put this setup in place in an attempt to solve both issues. Since the in dash gauge is now working, the need for a the mechanical gauge is reduced. So far I only have about 130 miles on the odometer so if the original gauge continues to function, I plan to remove the mechanical unit. I am not too fond of the under dash look on this otherwise "stock" restoration.
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