The Ford Barn

J Franklin · 11-15-2017, 10:54 PM

I had a boxed Ford rebuilt distributor with a damaged point spring. I replaced the points and set the gap by gauge. Are there any hints since I don't have much test stuff beside a good volt/ohm meter. certainly no test fixture or scope. I'm new to the V-8. I had the engine rebuilt and will need to add some of the ancillary equipment. Most is together but wiring and the distributor maybe some linkage also. Iv'e never had this one running.

Thanks

Ken/Alabama · 11-15-2017, 11:16 PM

Without strobing the distributor it's all guess work.

J Franklin · 11-15-2017, 11:46 PM

My guess-work usually turns out well so I'll figure it will at least get the engine started. I'll go from there. Not too much to adjust that I can see'

Lawrie · 11-16-2017, 12:32 AM

Do a search on setting the dist with out the factory jig thing,I think Flathead ted showed how to do it with a ruler,. or set the gaps to around .014 and at least it should run.
Lawrie

koates · 11-16-2017, 02:29 AM

Hi, On an original 1934 distributer with the 3 screw coil on top. Set both sets of contacts at .014" with a feeler gauge will get you very close. Be accurate with the feeler gauge "feel" and make sure you are right on top of the cam lobe. If the contact set is new never used then set them at .015" which will compensate for wearing in of the points fibre rubbing block. Set the small timing scale in the middle or one mark upwards on the scale. Don't bother with the ruler timing method. That is all you can do without one of the bench timing fixtures. That will get it running pretty good. You may need to adjust the vacuum brake screw if the engine pings under load. Fuel type can effect pinging. Stay away from ethanol blends if you can. Regards, Kevin.

J Franklin · 11-16-2017, 02:03 PM

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That is what I have done so far. If It doesn't run well I will send it to someone with a test bench. I have really good luck with mechanical things. I built a Tillotson carb once that has parts from Pontiac, '66 Mustang, and zenith carbs and it was one of the best running I have used on my model A Ford.

11-15-2017, 10:54 PM	#1
J Franklin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,961	1934 point setting I had a boxed Ford rebuilt distributor with a damaged point spring. I replaced the points and set the gap by gauge. Are there any hints since I don't have much test stuff beside a good volt/ohm meter. certainly no test fixture or scope. I'm new to the V-8. I had the engine rebuilt and will need to add some of the ancillary equipment. Most is together but wiring and the distributor maybe some linkage also. Iv'e never had this one running. Thanks Last edited by J Franklin; 11-15-2017 at 11:07 PM.

11-15-2017, 11:16 PM	#2
Ken/Alabama Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 3,258	Re: 1934 point setting Without strobing the distributor it's all guess work.

11-15-2017, 11:46 PM	#3
J Franklin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,961	Re: 1934 point setting My guess-work usually turns out well so I'll figure it will at least get the engine started. I'll go from there. Not too much to adjust that I can see'

11-16-2017, 12:32 AM	#4
Lawrie Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Qld, Australia Posts: 4,215	Re: 1934 point setting Do a search on setting the dist with out the factory jig thing,I think Flathead ted showed how to do it with a ruler,. or set the gaps to around .014 and at least it should run. Lawrie Last edited by Lawrie; 11-16-2017 at 12:43 AM. Reason: spelling

11-16-2017, 02:29 AM	#5
koates Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Melbourne Australia. Posts: 2,079	Re: 1934 point setting Hi, On an original 1934 distributer with the 3 screw coil on top. Set both sets of contacts at .014" with a feeler gauge will get you very close. Be accurate with the feeler gauge "feel" and make sure you are right on top of the cam lobe. If the contact set is new never used then set them at .015" which will compensate for wearing in of the points fibre rubbing block. Set the small timing scale in the middle or one mark upwards on the scale. Don't bother with the ruler timing method. That is all you can do without one of the bench timing fixtures. That will get it running pretty good. You may need to adjust the vacuum brake screw if the engine pings under load. Fuel type can effect pinging. Stay away from ethanol blends if you can. Regards, Kevin.

11-16-2017, 02:03 PM	#6
J Franklin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,961	Re: 1934 point setting Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) That is what I have done so far. If It doesn't run well I will send it to someone with a test bench. I have really good luck with mechanical things. I built a Tillotson carb once that has parts from Pontiac, '66 Mustang, and zenith carbs and it was one of the best running I have used on my model A Ford.