The Ford Barn

Maclab58 · 08-03-2010, 08:28 AM

i posted a thread over the weekend about my 28 A overheating. i think that i have covered all the bases and one suggestion that keeps coming up from the senior mrmbers of the local model A community is to flush the block with a muratic acid solution. what are your thoughts?

V4F · 08-03-2010, 08:56 AM

i would use a radiator flusher from an auto parts . the acid is dangerous & how r u going to get rid of a haz mat ? .................. steve

Bob A. · 08-03-2010, 09:08 AM

"Ok im a newbie Model A owner of about 3 months. I have a 28 AR Sport coupe that had set for 12 years. It runs great and is easy to start. Now my problem....... Whenever i turn it off it backfires add to that if I take it out and drive it more than 10 miles it overheats and boils over. Yesterday I took it for a drive a total of about 15 miles the first ten were no problem then it started to boil over and run like crap missing, sputtering and backfiring. I let it cool off, added water and it started and seem to run ok. So I headed back to my shop about 5 miles away and by the time i got there it was boiling over again. It was 105 degrees here yesterday to add insult to injury. It has a freshly cleaned out radiator, new waterpump and hoses. i do not have a thermostat in the cooling system. I have timed it checked the point gap etc and still have the backfire and heating problem. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

What do you mean "It has a freshly cleaned out radiator"
Just flushed ? I think your radiator needs to be rodded or replaced.

Many years ago I had an old flat head Ford that had a similar problem with back firing after it was turned off and running hot. When I removed the heads off this V8 I found lots of carbon. All I did as a kid with no money was to wire wheel the heads and I cleaned the top of the pistons (half a** carbon job) It solved my problem. I'm not saying this will cure your problem but maybe a knowledgeable person here on the barn can chime in about carbon build up associated with back firing after shutting down and running hot.
Good Luck and I hope you solve your problem.

skip · 08-03-2010, 04:49 PM

Steve asks: "acid is dangerous & how r u going to get rid of a haz mat ?"

Same way the fire department cleans up an accident site. Lots of water.

The solution to pollution is dilution. Works for oil spills...hey~Say a guy spills 50 gallons of paint onto the ground...BINGO...Haz Mat arrives to clean and fine for too many fumes to atmsphere. But lets the same guy uses 50 gallons to paint a building...same fumes to atmosphere and no problem. Just a thought.

After I dip and use the 3 normal acid [Muratic from ACE Hardware] to de~smut anything I pour the acid back into the plastic bottle, since acid does not evaporate, strained though a rag to catch the junque that I toss into the garbage. But each to their own.

So...can hardly way till two electric cars start to collide on a regular basis and the powdered battery contents spill onto the roadway and occupants. Just a thought. Might be shocking to watch.

As you know every seven minutes someone is killed in a vehicle accident in this country...so that's about 75,000 a year. Wholesale slaughter. I guess it's safer fighting overseas in the military.

One could drive around for 100 miles with a a bottle or two of vinagar in the mill.
Don't forget your water dip stick.

skip. Paul from Maine. NAPA sells a magnate on a long flexable spring as well as a telescope model. That may help find and clean out blind holes.

Paul from Maine · 08-03-2010, 08:10 PM

Remove the head and use one of those magnets on a telescopings handle to clean out the water passages in the block. Iron oxide clings to magnets. You will be amazed at the volume of debris the magnet pulls out, particularly in the rear of the block. Its amazing how far into the block you can push the round little magnet at the end of the telescoping handle. I spent over two hours "fishing" rust out of the block with my telescoping magnet. Engine ran much cooler after that.

Chris in CT · 08-04-2010, 07:41 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

McLab and Bob A, Just out of curiousity, when the engine is running, does the exhaust stink, or can you see the exhaust when the engine is warmed up? In my experience, assuming the cooling system is clean, too rich a mixture is the cause of much overheating in the Model A engine. Much more common than too lean a mixture. Check smell and visibility of exhaust, and carbon on the spark plugs. Bob, a bad coil could also cause some of your symptoms... Good Luck!

08-03-2010, 08:28 AM	#1
Maclab58 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Wichita Falls, Texas Posts: 983	more on overheating i posted a thread over the weekend about my 28 A overheating. i think that i have covered all the bases and one suggestion that keeps coming up from the senior mrmbers of the local model A community is to flush the block with a muratic acid solution. what are your thoughts?

08-03-2010, 08:56 AM	#2
V4F Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: ca. Posts: 2,522	Re: more on overheating i would use a radiator flusher from an auto parts . the acid is dangerous & how r u going to get rid of a haz mat ? .................. steve __________________ V4f

08-03-2010, 09:08 AM	#3
Bob A. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: New York Posts: 158	Re: more on overheating "Ok im a newbie Model A owner of about 3 months. I have a 28 AR Sport coupe that had set for 12 years. It runs great and is easy to start. Now my problem....... Whenever i turn it off it backfires add to that if I take it out and drive it more than 10 miles it overheats and boils over. Yesterday I took it for a drive a total of about 15 miles the first ten were no problem then it started to boil over and run like crap missing, sputtering and backfiring. I let it cool off, added water and it started and seem to run ok. So I headed back to my shop about 5 miles away and by the time i got there it was boiling over again. It was 105 degrees here yesterday to add insult to injury. It has a freshly cleaned out radiator, new waterpump and hoses. i do not have a thermostat in the cooling system. I have timed it checked the point gap etc and still have the backfire and heating problem. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" What do you mean "It has a freshly cleaned out radiator" Just flushed ? I think your radiator needs to be rodded or replaced. Many years ago I had an old flat head Ford that had a similar problem with back firing after it was turned off and running hot. When I removed the heads off this V8 I found lots of carbon. All I did as a kid with no money was to wire wheel the heads and I cleaned the top of the pistons (half a carbon job) It solved my problem. I'm not saying this will cure your problem but maybe a knowledgeable person here on the barn can chime in about carbon build up associated with back firing after shutting down and running hot. Good Luck and I hope you solve your problem. __________________ "Some Talk the Walk while others Walk the Walk"** Last edited by Bob A.; 08-03-2010 at 09:22 AM.

08-03-2010, 04:49 PM	#4
skip Banned Join Date: May 2010 Location: Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin Posts: 408	Re: more on overheating Steve asks: "acid is dangerous & how r u going to get rid of a haz mat ?" Same way the fire department cleans up an accident site. Lots of water. The solution to pollution is dilution. Works for oil spills...hey~Say a guy spills 50 gallons of paint onto the ground...BINGO...Haz Mat arrives to clean and fine for too many fumes to atmsphere. But lets the same guy uses 50 gallons to paint a building...same fumes to atmosphere and no problem. Just a thought. After I dip and use the 3 normal acid [Muratic from ACE Hardware] to de~smut anything I pour the acid back into the plastic bottle, since acid does not evaporate, strained though a rag to catch the junque that I toss into the garbage. But each to their own. So...can hardly way till two electric cars start to collide on a regular basis and the powdered battery contents spill onto the roadway and occupants. Just a thought. Might be shocking to watch. As you know every seven minutes someone is killed in a vehicle accident in this country...so that's about 75,000 a year. Wholesale slaughter. I guess it's safer fighting overseas in the military. One could drive around for 100 miles with a a bottle or two of vinagar in the mill. Don't forget your water dip stick. skip. Paul from Maine. NAPA sells a magnate on a long flexable spring as well as a telescope model. That may help find and clean out blind holes. Last edited by skip; 08-04-2010 at 05:56 AM.

08-03-2010, 08:10 PM	#5
Paul from Maine Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oxford Hills, Maine Posts: 325	Re: more on overheating Remove the head and use one of those magnets on a telescopings handle to clean out the water passages in the block. Iron oxide clings to magnets. You will be amazed at the volume of debris the magnet pulls out, particularly in the rear of the block. Its amazing how far into the block you can push the round little magnet at the end of the telescoping handle. I spent over two hours "fishing" rust out of the block with my telescoping magnet. Engine ran much cooler after that.

08-04-2010, 07:41 AM	#6
Chris in CT Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Connecticut Posts: 272	Re: more on overheating Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) McLab and Bob A, Just out of curiousity, when the engine is running, does the exhaust stink, or can you see the exhaust when the engine is warmed up? In my experience, assuming the cooling system is clean, too rich a mixture is the cause of much overheating in the Model A engine. Much more common than too lean a mixture. Check smell and visibility of exhaust, and carbon on the spark plugs. Bob, a bad coil could also cause some of your symptoms... Good Luck!