Alterations, Add-Ons, and Modifications

[RcT]

I am a purist at heart, but have come to the realization that if we are to get out of our neighborhood and venture on a trip in our A's, it might be a good idea to make a few changes, primarily for safety (No. 1), and reliability (No. 2).

In your opinion, what is the most viable alteration to make to a car for the above reasons?

For instance, for safety...
Seat Belts, safety glass, fuses, wheel and/or tire changes, etc.

For reliability; 12 volt system, aluminum fan, distibutor and carburation changes, water pump, water and oil pressure guages, etc.

Just for this discussion, let's forget about increased speed and performance, such as head replacement, down-draft carbs, overdrives, etc. That's a whole different discussion. Also, anything to do with personal taste, such as whitewalls, wind wings and hood ornaments.

[Colorado Greg]

I added a right side tail light, 3rd brake light and turn signals. It seemed that everytime I put my arm out the window to signal a turn, nobody knew what it meant and just waved at me. Don't they teach handsignals anymore? The 3rd brakelight in the back window is really bright and right in their face. I also wanted the 4-way flasher feature in case I have problems on the road. The next thing I'll add is some seatbelts.

[juke joint johnny]

For reliability stainless steel shaft in the water pump,no play in the distributor shaft, modern upper plate in the distributor,voltage regulater or alternater, decent fan aly one is good, [not the one with cast hub & steel blades. Tools under the seat and a spare condensor & fan belt . and you should make it to Stockton [ only joking ]
The rest I see as personal taste
John

[JtownJoe]

I found the tube style shocks added a lot of driving stability to my tudor, since they are just bolt on it doesn't really alter the car but because they mount on an approx 45* angle it feels much better on sharp turns winding roads. also switched to the shortened pitnam arm last year & it makes for more pleasant steering squeezing in & out of my garage & driveway.

[juke joint johnny]

Greg is right about the lights,how about a switch to isolate the electrics from the battery [ makes it easier to work on anytime] spare bulbs, and a fire extinguisher[had a powerhouse generater catch fire on my 28 once]
John

[CarlG]

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The first things I felt were necessary included: Right tail light, turn signals & flashers, & seat belts. I have also added LED tail lights and have the 3rd brake light, but it's not installed just yet. The other items I have added or changed were purely personal preference.

[Gord. B by the bay]

For safety signal lites for sure, Hand signals are hard to see after dark, also rear window led stop lite so the car behind you knows what you are doing. Alumimnum 2 blade fan for sure. A door mounted mirror on the drivers side so you can see traffic behind you and when they plan to pass etc. Good brakes with the ability to stop when needed. Halogen headlites so you can see at nite and others cansee you. Safty glass in all windows is required for your insurance and your protection. The best tires and tubes they what takes you safely down the road its your life depending on them. Balance all your wheels when on the car, like one poster says "Drive it as if you know how to fix it" Have a Great Day Gord B by the Bay

[Purdy Swoft]

The mods that I consider important for a driver car that will be used for longer trips are as follows. Balanced aluminum two blade fan, mechanical temperature guage, water pump improvements such as brass rear bushing with two seals, leakless brass packing nut.. modern front bearing, locking shaft thrust collar, water pump bolts that look like the original studs and nuts or make your own, I use the modern starter drive. voltage regulator of choice, right hand tail light, Halogen headlamp bulbs that fit the original sockets, if you run a generator or the more powerful quartz halogen bulbs if you run an alternator, stand up filter in the gas cut off valve. I prefer 12 volts, it isn't necessary and I won't get into the pros and cons or i'll be typing a long time. Many will say cast iron drums and I agree that they are good. If a person doesn't know how to set the brakes up, cast iron drums will only relieve your pocketbook of a large wad of green, especially when you factor in the ridiculas price of swedgeing the lug bolts and turning the drums so that they will clear the lining. You don't want a higher compression head but I consider this the most important upgrade that you can make for safety and driveability. An underpowered model A that slows to thirty mph or less on hills is a nusiance to the other drivers on the road and a REAL danger of getting ran over. Just because you have a more powerful engine doesn't mean that you have to drive it at dangerious speed. The extra power on hills and the fact that the engine will usually run cooler and get better mpg is more than reason enough for me to use higher compression heads on most of my model A's. Just my thoughts.

[LukeDahlinger]

I added a second tail light to my drivers and aside from that everything else is original.

I do use original HL reflectors that have been resilvered and properly focused. They throw off a lot of light with the 32-50cp bulbs.

Like Vince I'm a firm believer in the logic if everything is restored properly back to original specs you don't need alot of aftermarket type modifications.

How does converting to 12V make it more reliable? I've never had a problem with 6V systems in all the years I've been working on old Fords (both Model A & Flathead V8 era).

[al's28/33]

When I first bought my Phaeton I installed a Mitchell overdrive and 30 AMP alternator just thinking it would be easier on the engine and allow me to keep up with other traffic. Thing is I never really went anywhere for that long or that fast, so I recently removed them both, sold them and just installed seat belts. Otherwise I'm keeping my cars close to original appearance. Oh yeah, I've got the safety fuse on the starter.

[ctlikon0712]

I believe the cars are designed to be reliable and they were driven many, many miles as they were. To improve them for touring purposes, there really isn't anything wrong with the 6V system if it’s in proper repair. What I have done or considered is, seat belts, Aluminum 2 blade fan, Stainless shaft on the water pump, all original ignition and rotating assembly, 3.54 rear gear, 6V LED turn signals with a third brake light, and rain x on the wind shield. All else if in proper working order as designed is fine. Well maybe a cup holder for the big gulp!

[29ModelA]

Originally Posted by Colorado Greg

I added a right side tail light, 3rd brake light and turn signals. It seemed that everytime I put my arm out the window to signal a turn, nobody knew what it meant and just waved at me. Don't they teach handsignals anymore? The 3rd brakelight in the back window is really bright and right in their face. I also wanted the 4-way flasher feature in case I have problems on the road. The next thing I'll add is some seatbelts.

Actually they don't... and if they do they gloss over it.

[Kevin in NJ]

For safety:

Seat belts. The doors pop open easy and that dash is pretty hard. The cars survive accidents intact. The people with seat belts have lived some pretty horrible accidents. The people without have died.

Halogen headlamp bulbs from Australia that work with the stock 6V system (not the India bulbs from most of the major suppliers). Properly focused with original reflectors you will have plenty of bright white light to run 55 MPH at night on back roads.

Some sort of bright LED brake light to insure people know you are stopping.

For reliablity:
Return all the system to Ford specs, not what your best buddy says works fine on the car he only drives 45 MPH.

The car was built to run 60 MPH and will do it if you understand how to return it back to factory. A car that is rebuilt right feels comfortable at 60. Most cars are marginal at 45 and I would not consider them safe over 30 MPH.

The A was driven all over the place when it was new and there are only 3 major issues that you will find back in the 30's. Tires would blow out often, does not happen these days. The batteries would fail, you should see over 5 years with a quality battery. Condensers would fail, the modern burn out proof ones do not if you do not have electrical system problems.

The two mods I would push are the higher compression heads. We have better fuel so the ultra low compression head is not needed. The regulator on the generator. We have nice modern electronics to do what they did not know how to do in 1930.

If you properly restore the car to factory you should expect tens of thousands of miles of trouble free driving at 55 MPH getting in the low twenties for fuel mileage.

Keep in mind that if you take your crank to the local grinder with the print and ask them to hold the original Ford specs they will do two things. They will tell you that you want a racing grind and they will tell you they will not do it. Ford held his parts to very tight specs on the line.

[Marco Tahtaras]

Originally Posted by RcT

I am a purist at heart, but have come to the realization that if we are to get out of our neighborhood and venture on a trip in our A's, it might be a good idea to make a few changes, primarily for safety (No. 1), and reliability (No. 2).

In your opinion, what is the most viable alteration to make to a car for the above reasons?

For reliability; 12 volt system, aluminum fan, distibutor and carburation changes, water pump, water and oil pressure guages, etc.

Since many other folks have fan problems I must assume you may as well, so that is likely worthwhile. A functional Motometer will be useful to monitor water temperature swings. The other items on your list have absolutely NO bearing on reliability. Folks that make these types of changes do so either because they simply want to, or they were taught it was "the thing to do".

I do think an EVR is useful (although certainly not necessary) and unintrusive addition. It will reduce battery maintenance and fumes. It will also protect the generator from "operator error" such as running it disconnected. With that said I've had one on the shelf for about seven years. I like the idea but haven't gotten around to installing it because I don't really need it!

[glenn in camino]

The minimum should be the aluminum fan, seat belts, a couple of new inner tubes, a jack, a lug wrench, a condenser, points, a crank, tools, a flashlight, your club and national roster, and your cell phone. My wife always takes a book just in case. If you're going with a group, you'll be fine

[HoarseWhisperer]

I have the aluminum fan and that's about it.

Regular maintenance has provided reliability for all of our long distance touring and vacations in the good and reliable Model A Ford.

[RcT]

I did not mean to imply that an absolutely mechanically-perfect original car is not satisfactory. I would guess the majority of us are tooling around in the cars that feel good in the 40 mph range, where the noise and vibration is at a comfortable level. Speaking for myself, it is a matter of available money, tools and skills to get the car to that perfection place.

It seems from the above answers that if one wants a car to deal with todays driving speeds and drivers protected with airbags and such, (and their driving reflects their ignorance of stopping distances, etc.) that the top mods would be turn signals and second stop light, any improvements to the intensity of the lights and belts for safety. As for reliability, replacement of the original fan, as they decay from the inside out and develop cracks. Thank you all for your replies... this gives me a good idea for priorities of stuff.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Make sure you have the battery hold down bracket on top of battery and bolted correctly, have seen one roll over and the battery was done correctly, if not the driver would have been burned badly. Everything in a Fordor comes loose in a roll over, cushions etc., be careful, it only took a second.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by RcT

I am a purist at heart, but have come to the realization that if we are to get out of our neighborhood and venture on a trip in our A's, it might be a good idea to make a few changes, primarily for safety (No. 1), and reliability (No. 2).

.

If I'm looking for what you state above, I drive my modern car. You can do what you want but you don't need to do anything the was not done when it left the factory.

[ctlikon0712]

Oh Bruce, those pics are making me sick!

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by ctlikon0712

Oh Bruce, those pics are making me sick!

French Lick MARC meet?? I think posting pics like this here are great because it reminds all of us that the best safety device our cars can have is the 'Driver' of the Model A!! Maybe folks choose to install other widgets to somewhat compensate for that failing safety device!!

Ironically, I am on a Model T tour down in "traffic-infested" Savannah, GA with a bunch of vehicles that have a top speed of 40 mph and 22 horsepower, ...and often times when we are on these tours, we travel 80-100 miles a day. Even when they have engine upgrades, these engines still have less Hp than what a stock Model A has, ...and several of these cars that are traveling in this group recently completed a coast-to-coast (NY to Seattle) journey. My point is anyone can find an excuse to justify a modification however just as some above have pointed out, in my opinion the word "needed" really should not be in the same sentence.

.

[Greg Jones]

Brent is right, much of this relates to the skill of the driver and OTHER drivers on the road. This picture is an example of what happens when another vehicle suddenly, at the last millisecond, decides that it can beat that "old car" (traveling at about 50 mph) and pulls in front of you to turn. Maybe someone with more of a lightning fast reaction time could have avoided this impact, but I did not and there were no seat belts. I went flying and folks consider it a miracle that I am alive.

My vote would be for seat belts. Just try hanging on at 50 mph-you can't.

I hate seeing this picture but figure if it makes someone act and put seat belts in, well, then maybe it has some value.

[Richard Wilson]

When someone asks about "mods" to their Model A I always point out "that with every modification something is lost in the true Model A experience. How much of the experience are you willing to loose." That being said, I have never personally owned or personally known a person with a 100% original Model A but would like to one day.

[RcT]

These pictures are, in fact, sickening, and the problem lies with the traffic in which we put ourselves ... it seems the more safety features installed in new cars, along with all the electronic distractions, throw in the shortage of law enforcement, the drivers of today are ignorant of the capacity of distruction they can do...

It seems as though I get honked at or flipped off about once a week. This is California, and although we may not have all the idiots, we certainly seem to have the majority.
Let's face it, we are putting ourselves in harm's way when we venture out in our Model A's on anything other than low-speed local streets or backroads. If we venture out alone, my wife now fears we will be pulled over and mugged. Things have become ugly.

I don't want to get political here and get the boot.

Richard... (staying around home)

[400A-64]

If you drive on freeways very much, iimproved power and braking is as much a safety factor as anything!! You need to be able to stop or power your way out of any situation that may come your way, I sure like panard bars on my car to give it stability. ( reduces body roll)
Bruce Davis [email protected]

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Originally Posted by RcT

These pictures are, in fact, sickening, and the problem lies with the traffic in which we put ourselves ... it seems the more safety features installed in new cars, along with all the electronic distractions, throw in the shortage of law enforcement, the drivers of today are ignorant of the capacity of distruction they can do...

It seems as though I get honked at or flipped off about once a week. This is California, and although we may not have all the idiots, we certainly seem to have the majority.
Let's face it, we are putting ourselves in harm's way when we venture out in our Model A's on anything other than low-speed local streets or backroads. If we venture out alone, my wife now fears we will be pulled over and mugged. Things have become ugly.

I don't want to get political here and get the boot.

Richard... (staying around home)

I agree with Richard and that's another reason I'm getting back into boating. It's pretty safe and relaxing cruising around at a slow pace on the lake. I wanted to take my 1918 Evinrude out on the lake yesterday, but I wound up helping my neighbor work on his 1955 Army Jeep.

[TinCup]

You know I have only added a few items. HiComp head, altenator and modern points to my A. Their are many cars in the club that can cruise 55-60 mph all day long but not for me. I am in the process of rebuilding a generator to replace the altenator. Seat belts will be added when I redo my interior this summer. 40-45 is my comfort level and I don't get on major highways. My brakes are good and in most traffic situations I feel confident. My concern is always the people that run up behind me or pull out in front of me as if I am driving a modern car. Can't say that anyone has ever flipped me off in fact just the opposite. I get more smiles and waves than anything else.

[LukeDahlinger]

There's a couple of old cars around town(Model A's included) that evidently poke around at 30-35 mph as I've gotten comments like "you don't hold up traffic, I was behind another old car last week and he was driving 30 on a 45 mph road holding up traffic." I've passed a couple of these guys in my own Model A's so I see the civilian's point.

This isn't the first time I've got comments like this in the grocery store parking lot, at the gas station etc. If your Model A will only do 30-35 comfortably, it shouldn't be on the road IMO. Even my bone stock Roadster with weak motor will run 50 all day along.

[Rainmaker Ron]

The Rule of Modifications

The modifications you make to YOUR car make it safer, faster, more reliable and enhance its beauty, character and value.

The modifications I make to MY car are expensive, unneeded, unreliable, unsafe and destroy its beauty, character and value.

Rainmaker Ron

[Logan]

Originally Posted by Rainmaker Ron

The Rule of Modifications

The modifications you make to YOUR car make it safer, faster, more reliable and enhance its beauty, character and value.

The modifications I make to MY car are expensive, unneeded, unreliable, unsafe and destroy its beauty, character and value.

Rainmaker Ron

Very well put.

[J Franklin]

RcT - Richard you should get your wife set up with a concealed weapons permit and a nice Glock. she will feel much safer, but will you? He He!

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I will, I will, I will, remember, that when I do something to, or add something to my Model A, "VERMIN," I WON'T open a can of WORMS by asking for anyone's approval or atta' boys!! I'll just confer with The Ghost, (we're gettin' kinda' friendly!) if he disagrees, I can bank on the dog's approval!!
Let's scrape up all them Barn Worms & GO FISHIN'
Bill W. & The Ghost & The Vicious Ratter Dog

[glenn in camino]

I've been touring for 40 years so when I'm planning a long tour, in my deluxe delivery, I try to take everything I could possibly fix on the road. So far I've been pretty lucky.

[glenn in camino]

If your Model A is modified, take extras of all the parts no one else on the tour is likely to have.

[Richard Wilson]

Originally Posted by glenn in camino

If your Model A is modified, take extras of all the parts no one else on the tour is likely to have.

Amen brother!!!! Many times someone in a Model A tour group will have a needed common part for a roadside repair to share but a modified part you are probably on your own.

An electronic distributor module comes to mind. The only Model A on a long club tour with electronic ignition had distributor problems 150 miles from home. Luckily, after a couple hours trying to bypass the module somehow, one of the more "worry wort" type members remembered that he had a complete restored points style distributor under his seat so we swapped out the distributor and the guy made it home.

[Kurt in NJ]

A stock model A has reliability in it's simplicity, a modern car has reliability in it's complexity.

When you try to combine the 2 it's easy to have a car you need to tow home when it breaks.

[MikeK]

Alterations, Add-Ons, and Modifications?

Alteration: The way you drive. Much more defensively in an A!
Add-On: Turn Signals.
Modification: Henry went to Cast Iron drums ('mountain brakes') late in the game. New iron drums replacing the fade prone original steel.

[theHIGHLANDER]

I walked this whole "slippery slope" and have come to the conclusion that the wording has a more profound effect on the idea than the reality. The bravado of what a great car it is as-is is expected, especially here. The whole concept of the hot rod is to improve power, braking and handling. Today as we restore our cars, EVERYTHING is better. Better paint, cloth, engine gaskets and mat'ls, brake linings, stronger chassis parts, tires. Still, in my opinion after driving the roads in my part of the world, the tires are the biggest "fear factor" on the Model A. Out here in rural S.E. Mich, the old blacktop roads are rutted and lumpy from decades of farm equipment and tractor/trailers. Even with tight steering and good kingpins the car wants to follow those grooves, and when you have 5-6 foot deep ditches both sides, the ol girl gets your attention pretty fast. Is it too bad to enjoy? Not at all, but that attention that's awakened is most likely the biggest safety factor of all. To those of you who've gone from 19 or 21 inch wheel/tires to maybe 16 or 17, did it make a difference? Most likely, yes. Does it really steal from the A experience? Maybe not. Drive a 31 Packard or a 31 Cadillac and tell me what you feel. The difference is like a Harley vs a dirt bike. Both fun, both good at what they do, but as was said already, the driver's ability and response to what they're driving is the only limit here. I'm all about making things as good or better, but when you ask yourself what you expect out the car, the experience, right there is where your answers will be found. You need an additional hour to get places, you need warmer clothes in cold wether, you need good lighting, and you need to be more aware of your surroundings than ever...even in that Packard.

[denis4x4]

After reading 38 posts here, I'm surprised that no one has mentioned seats. After 10 years of driving my roadster, I was ready to sell it. However, I found an upholsterer that custom fit a lumbar support that enabled me to drive five or six hours with out pain. On my CCPU, I replaced the stock seats with Jeep buckets that make driving a pleasure. I could probably swap out the Jeep seats in an hour with stock A seats and nobody would be the wiser.

[29ModelA]

Originally Posted by denis4x4

After reading 38 posts here, I'm surprised that no one has mentioned seats. After 10 years of driving my roadster, I was ready to sell it. However, I found an upholsterer that custom fit a lumbar support that enabled me to drive five or six hours with out pain. On my CCPU, I replaced the stock seats with Jeep buckets that make driving a pleasure. I could probably swap out the Jeep seats in an hour with stock A seats and nobody would be the wiser.

I would love to see how the jeep buckets are installed as I have a set in my basement.

[denis4x4]

These are made by BesTop for a CJ 7 and cost around $250 for the pair from Quadratec. I put high back recliners in my sedan delivery (Sorry no pictures yet) made for early model Wranglers. You can even order them with 12V heating elements!

[John LaVoy]

We have written many articles about what you should do and what you could do for long distance touring. We have driven 4-5,000 miles on various tours with cars totally stock and highly modified.

Some things are a given, seat belts! Then move onto reliability. the Model A in it's original configuration is fairly reliable, but things have improved and you can add these improvements to the car.

You will find many people that say leave it as Henry built it. Of course when the Model A was new a trip of more than 100 miles was unheard of, so keep it stock and keep it at home. The roads were not paved so you only drove slowly past the horses and forded the streams carefully. Now you are facing high speed roads and the need to flow with traffic or get off the roads.

Stock is nice and I have a totally stock car, but for getting out and seeing the country I like my sedan with 12 volts, air conditioning , stereo etc. I will drive along with the stock folks at 45 MPH, but when I am running along 55-60 is much nicer.

Of course to each his own, it is your car and you should set it up how you are comfortable.

[columbiA]

60 years ago,I drove a bone stock A.I could seldom get over 40 as the roads were so rough and an OD was definitely not needed.Today,unless you are happy to just putt-putt around a quiet subdivision,I find it much safer to have OD & an HC head & brake floaters.If I had a stock A today,it would likely sit in the garage & gather dust.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by John LaVoy

Then move onto reliability. the Model A in it's original configuration is fairly reliable, but things have improved and you can add these improvements to the car.

Just like your modern car!

You will find many people that say leave it as Henry built it. Of course when the Model A was new a trip of more than 100 miles was unheard of, so keep it stock and keep it at home. You really mean that? If it's stock keep it home? The roads were not paved so you only drove slowly past the horses and forded the streams carefully. Now you are facing high speed roads and the need to flow with traffic or get off the roads.

Stock is nice and I have a totally stock car, but for getting out and seeing the country I like my sedan with 12 volts, air conditioning , stereo etc. I like driving slowly past the horses and forded the streams carefully when I get out and see the county. I will drive along with the stock folks at 45 MPH, but when I am running along 55-60 is much nicer. Stock A's should go 55

Of course to each his own, it is your car and you should set it up how you are comfortable.

Nice to see this in writing from you. I've noticed a shift in your magazine to modified cars, and now I see that the editor wants it that way. I will not be renewing.

[jerry shook]

Mike. Would you post how to get the magazine you are not renewing. Me and a lot of other people would love to get it.

[jerry shook]

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I AGREE THE WORD ( needed) should not be used. LETS CHANGE IT TO ( IF YOU LOVE LIVING). GREG PICTURE OF THE WRECKED MODEL A PROVES UPGRADES ARE ( IF YOU LOVE LIVING). SURE HELPS TO HAVE POWER AND BRAKES WHEN YOU ( LOVE LIVING) ON TODAY ROADS. JUST SAYING.

[John LaVoy]

There are a number of articles under way right now that deal with original parts, but if all you are interested in is completely stock Model As then The Restorer or News would be what you read. We try to explore various aspects of the Model A, the hobby and how to get them on the road and be driven.

[John LaVoy]

Since a couple of asked about getting the magazine it is $25 per year, Model A Times PO Box 1919, Rocklin, CA 95677, www.modelatimes.com

[CarlG]

All the back issues are also available. I finally got the complete set. All that's needed now is a comprehensive index!

[Jim Mason]

Here's a page from my old site that Charlie Stephens wrote and I commented on. Now I will get into the changes that I would make or at least consider making to a Model A assuming that I was starting with one that was original but not a high point show car or such a low mileage original that it wouldn’t be appropriate to change it. These are changes that I would personally make based on how I use my Model A. As I go down the list I am sure the purists will become increasingly angered and probably stop reading.(Yep!!!jm) I include these items such that you may evaluate any changes you may find on cars you are considering. If you remove original parts from the car, save them because someday someone may want to completely restore the car (this extends from bolts with special heads to complete mechanical brake systems). If you add parts, bolt them on using existing holes. The person who wants to completely restore the car in the future may turn out to be you. Remember, as I said before, you can get into a stock Model A and drive it and enjoy it.
1. Put a fuse in the electrical system. Most suppliers sell a small fuse that mounts on the generator. It’s cheap insurance. (check the quality, some fuses have caused problems jm)
2. Get a heat baffle that shields the distributor from the exhaust manifold heat. Be sure to get the stainless steel one, it will look good forever. The heat from the exhaust manifold is hard on the condenser. Even after installing the shield, carry an extra condenser under the seat and buy only the highest quality condenser you can get.
3. Check the water pump, if there is any sign of leakage, replace it with a pack less pump (don’t cut corners here, buy a good one).
5. Check the fan. If it is an original fan check carefully for fatigue cracks. Feel the blade for signs of rust inside between the layers of metal. Consider one of the reproduction aluminum fan blades. Also the 1933-4 fan (4 blades) is a good replacement for the Model A 2 blade but they are also old and subject to fatigue failures. (MY FAN PAGE)
6. Install a right hand taillight. Most cars came with only a left taillight and are therefore legal (in most states) with only one light but they are sure a lot safer with two. The lights are small compared to modern cars so every little bit helps. Excellent reproduction lights and brackets are available for making this change.
The preceding are probably the best bang for your buck changes and this might be a good place to stop making changes. Changes are definitely an example of "more is not better". While a few changes tend to "personalize" the car, too many changes soon destroy the character of the car. Now for a few more changes. Keep in mind that the necessity for these changes is highly dependent on how you use “your” Model A.
7. Turn signals. Kits are available from suppliers. In today’s traffic hand signals are marginal during the day but not worth much at night.
8. Headlights. The original reflectors were silver plated and tended to tarnish. If you try to polish yours remember that silver is soft and requires a very fine polish formulated for use on silver. Plating companies can resilver your original reflectors or some companies like Uvira [(541) 474-5050] replate your reflectors with aluminum and then apply a coat of glass (trust me, this comes out a lot better than it sounds, this technology is used on mirrors to dissipate heat from communications satellites in space). Are they expensive? Yes. Are they cheaper than hitting something in the road at night due to poor headlights? Probably. Avoid the chrome-plated reflectors available from some suppliers, as they do not reflect enough light. Be sure all of your grounds are good. Apply a drop of solder on the wire connectors at the bottom of the steering column if there is still a problem. If you need really good lights consider changing the car to 12 volts and going to halogen bulbs using an adapter or the high intensity 12-volt bulbs that go into the original sockets that are available from the Ron Francis Wire Works [(800) 292-1940]. When making the change to 12 volts it is most common to use the alternators available from many of the suppliers. If and when I convert my Model A to 12 volts I intend to try to use a 1955-64 Ford 12 volt generator. I feel a generator looks more like it belongs on a Model A.
9. Hydraulic brakes. Never discuss hydraulic brakes with a purist.(!!!jm) Never discuss politics (vote counting), religion or hydraulic brakes in mixed company. My personal opinion is that a good set of 1939-49 hydraulic brakes properly installed is a major safety improvement if you intend to drive the car very much or very fast. After having said all of that, I will admit that when I got my 1931 Roadster Pickup the hydraulic brakes were so poorly installed that I converted back mechanical brakes because they would be safer. If you choose to stay with the mechanical brakes consider putting “bands” on the steel brake drums. These are available as reproductions but may frequently be found on otherwise scrap used drums. Another good choice for the mechanical brake system is to use cast iron brake drums. These came out in late 1931 but originals are so rare that you will probably end up buying reproductions.
10. If you would like a few extra horsepower consider a higher compression head. This could take the form of using a 1932-34 head (with its associated 3 bolt water pump), an original Model A high performance “police” head (with a block B cast into the head), a head from Brumfield, or a high compression head from Snyders. These heads are only slightly above the stock compression ratio and can be bolted onto a stock engine without other modifications. If you increase the compression beyond what you get from these heads be sure you understand what other modifications you should make to the engine. If you want to go beyond this in increasing the horsepower there is a chapter (FAST) of the MARC and MAFCA clubs that is dedicated to speed equipment. Information on speed equipment is also available from the Secrets of Speed Society (SOSS)([email protected]).
11. If your rear end ratio is 4.11:1 consider going to a 3.54:1 rear end ratio. If you have a good rear end with a 3.78:1 ratio it would probably not be worth changing. If you have to rebuild the rear end for other reasons definitely go to the 3.54:1 ratio when you have it apart. A recent posting pointed out how small the change in RPM is for a given speed between the 3.78:1 and 3.54:1 ratios. I double-checked the math and it was right. All I know is that my Roadster Pick-up with a 3.54:1 ratio sure runs better than my roadster with a 3.78:1 ratio using the same engine in both vehicles.
12. If other family members are going to drive the car a 1932-34 distributor (or an aftermarket) with automatic advance might be a good idea. If you start the car with the spark lever down you risk breaking the Bendix drive on the starter motor.
This is the point at which I would stop making changes based on the way I use a Model A but there a couple of more you might consider if your situation warrants it.
1. If you have a closed car and live in a hot climate you might consider one of the firewall insulator kits sold by most suppliers. They are patterned after the firewall insulators Ford used beginning in 1932. They are not original but look like they belong there to an untrained eye.
2. A nice change if other family members are driving the car would be the later model Borg Warner transmission with full syncros. I am the only one driving my car and I personally think the original transmission is fine but I have driving Model A’s for the last 40 years.
3. A final concession to other family members (or maybe yourself if you have arthritis) would be to replace the original steering with an F1 pickup steering. This change is not visible without lifting the hood and then it is only visible if you know what you are looking for. Note that this is a bolt in type of change that can be reversed if someone desires to restore the car in the future. If I chose to rebuild the original steering because it needed it, I would suggest going to needle bearings on the sector shaft. I can’t prove they work but I have them in my steering and it works well.

Best of luck and welcome to the hobby,
Charlie Stephens



Closing comments by me (Jim Mason)
One of the points that I stress is point 5. Decided early on what you are going to do with the car. If you plan on fine point judging, reproduction parts are out. If you plan on driving your car and never show it...I still wouldn't use any more repop parts than absolutely necessary. Attending swap meets, meeting with people, and the enjoyment of the hunt, is an important and very enjoyable part of the hobby. Many find that when they have 'finished' a car, they no longer have the interest in it that they had, and sell it in order to buy another to work on. One recommendation some people make is to buy one to drive, and one to restore..if time, money and space allows, this may be a good answer.
Being a more of a purist than some, I would not make the same recommendations for modifications, and actually disagree with some of the modifications mentioned. I prefer to drive unmodified cars.

AS SAID IN THE ANSWER ABOVE...POLITICS, RELIGION, AND MODIFICATIONS CAN'T BE SUCCESFULLY ARGUED.
YOU WILL CHANGE THE ARGUEMENTS BUT NOT THE OPINIONS

While true that inherent in the design, the Model A engine will have more vibration than a modern engine, the engine should be smooth running. If care is not taken in matching the weights of the power train parts, and in balancing the engine/flywheel and other components undue vibrations can occur. Again, become familiar with a well restored vehicle to be able to judge the quality of any work done on your purchase.
Properly restored, and maintained, mechanical brakes, manual advance distributors, non-synchro transmissions, steering boxes etc. can and have given years of excellent service. The 'trick' is to bring them all back to factory specs and keep them that way (actually RESTORE THE VEHICLE, NOT JUST REPAIR OR MAKE DO OR PERFORM A MESSTORATION .



And Here is Marco's rebuttal:
Re: Modern upgrades - The Long Version!
by Marco Tahtaras
Folks don't like to here this due to the inferences, but here goes.
GENERATOR
I rebuilt my own so I know it will be good for 100k miles or more. The generator will do everything it is supposed to and do it well. The only time I ever changed the charging rate was when I was going to drive more than 100 miles after dark. I did have to change the battery after four years.
GENERATOR CUTOUT
Originals are fine and properly done diode conversions should be fine (I've never tried one). The repros were junk in the 70's and likely the same today. A cutout is LESS than ideal unless you either drive the car very regularly, or keep it on a battery tender when not in use.
For everyone else I'd recommend a voltage regulator. There are two types and I've heard great things about both. The first (Vince's choice) mounts on the inside of the band and is wired into the generator. The second looks like and replaces the cutout. It's not clear to me how this one works, but I've heard nothing but good and intend to try one myself since I just don't get to drive my cars daily at the present time. Both of these allow for a much higher charging rate only when needed similar to an alternator.
ALTERNATOR
Simply not needed for most of us. They have the potential for much greater output which I'll never need. The Generator handles everything nicely even under my current "limited use" conditions. If you start making changes that can all change. For example, many folks have old or chrome repro headlamp reflectors with poor reflectivity. Add this to poor focus and the results are DANGEROUS lights for any serious or rural night driving. Add halogen or seal beam lamps to compensate for the other weaknesses and the current draw goes up considerably. Now you are pushing that old generator. Start adding extra light, air conditioning, etc., and an alternator is a must.
12 VOLT CONVERSION
This is also becoming more common. 12 Volt systems require 1/2 the "conduit" for a specific current draw meaning smaller wires can be used and is less susceptible to poor grounds that are common with partially restored cars. More efficient? yes. Practical advantage over a good restored 6 volt system? No. Again, if you are choosing to load up on things like sound system, air conditioning, etc., you should make the conversion.
DISTRIBUTOR
I'm still not clear why this is such a difficult item for most, but it is. When it is proper all it requires readjusting the points every few thousand miles which takes 2-3 minutes with stock setup. I've found I change the points 5-10k miles. I can't imagine there are NO good replacements available, but it may be the case. There are many that convert to modern points and condensers to get the condensers away from the "heat". The heat is generated by the exhaust manifold. The manifold only gets excessively hot when the timing is too far retarded and can be worse if the fuel mixture is too lean. Even Les Andrews promotes the modernized setup which seems strange to me since he lives in similar climate to me and I've driven long distances at 106-107° without incident. I must add however that I read one of his instructions for timing and the end result would be around 5° retarded which would certainly contribute. Ford offered a heat shield beginning late 1929 that is currently reproduced. It was "for hot climates only" as I'm sure they found many owners needed extra help for reasons I can only speculate.
The electronic conversions are another modern "nicety". They will "ignore" the excessive slop and eccentric cams and/or shafts found in most "rebuilt" distributors. They will provide no improved performance over a good original within the modern operating range (I've only tested to about 3400 rpm). However they can provide an improvement over what is commonly accepted as rebuilt. They will also eliminate the occasional inspection for those that don't wish to lift the distributor cap. However, you should still be adding oil to the distributor bushings so why not a 60 second visual inspection at the same time? I know, it's tough!
WATER PUMP
This is an area that also functioned well but is more difficult to restore with what we have to work with. The packing works fine when shaft to bushing clearances are good and end play is restricted to the .008" limit Ford Specified. Modern packing has been less than ideal but I believe there is some good split ring packing available now. I happen to have a fairly clean engine compartment and want to keep it that way. I don't want ANY dripping if possible. I did machine my original rear bushing to accept two small lip seals and have original packing under the packing nut for backup if the lip seals fail. Necessary? No. Cleaner? Yes. There are some sealed pumps available that folks on the board swear by. They also eliminate the need to control end play making them a very simple "bolt on" that I assume looks the same. Not a bad idea in my opinion.
THERMOSTAT
Here's a fun one. No question this is a technical improvement that should improve wear characteristics by bringing everything up to optimal temperatures. Original engines were designed to operate at an average of 170° and got a bit sloppy from wear in the cylinder bores between 60k and 70k miles while still having good bearings at the bottom end. You may be able to improve on that some, but most don't get close. Most people add the thermostat merely to slow the water flow because of poor repro radiators. I don't know if anyone builds a core today with near the capacity of originals so your margin of error will likely be reduced and if you get a bad one you will have to redesign the system somewhat. I can't believe there is nothing good enough though.
CONCLUSION
This is a sampling of common modifications and there are many more. Are any of them necessary or safer? Not in my opinion. I do favor seals in places where minor leaks were originally considered acceptable. They never bothered me with the old "driver" that got parked outside and driven daily. My feelings are different with a clean restoration and a garage floor I prefer to keep fairly clean. Necessary? Not at all. Simply MY choice and I make no apologies for it.
Interest in alterations and individualizing automobiles is as old as automobiles themselves and there is nothing wrong with that. If I wanted my "A" painted pink you can bet your life I would do it! I do however resist alterations done under the false premise of "need" or "improvement" when clearly untrue. There is also nothing wrong with expediency and side-stepping a problem instead of solving it and understanding the reasons for it. I do however think it a shame to teach novices and others that these are THE solutions simply to approximate the original quality inherent in the design of the car.
Do what you really want and feel good about it because you're the one that needs to be happy. Doing anything else is foolish at best and I'd lean towards calling it stupid to do otherwise. Just don't do it to please others if it conflicts with your own desires.

[Mountain Dew]

Originally Posted by jerry shook

I AGREE THE WORD ( needed) should not be used. LETS CHANGE IT TO ( IF YOU LOVE LIVING). GREG PICTURE OF THE WRECKED MODEL A PROVES UPGRADES ARE ( IF YOU LOVE LIVING). SURE HELPS TO HAVE POWER AND BRAKES WHEN YOU ( LOVE LIVING) ON TODAY ROADS. JUST SAYING.

Come on Jerry, (if you love living) get out of your rocking chair and off the porch. Ride a motorcycle or try skydiving. A Model A Ford is not as dangerous as you make it sound.

[1931 flamingo]

Jim: Your post #50 just about sums it up.
Paul in CT

[jerry shook]

Mountain due. I love living , drive my model a rocking chair all the time people around home say you sure enjoy your a every time i see you you are in it . Just drove it to florence sc passed cars on the interstate . Ran the darlington speed way at 75 mph. Loce my rocking chair a with add ons. I also have one with out any add ones i put, put around in .

[jerry shook]

Let me add, at the show at florence, out of the 95 to 100 model a"s that was there and i looked at i never saw one that did not have add on"s or up grades. The majority of them had a lot of add one"s. I guess they ( love living) and driving there rocking chair a"s.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by John LaVoy

There are a number of articles under way right now that deal with original parts, but if all you are interested in is completely stock Model As then The Restorer or News would be what you read. We try to explore various aspects of the Model A, the hobby and how to get them on the road and be driven.

That will be a change.

[Brubaker]

Jim, Thanks for your post(#50). Obviously considerable effort on your end. Just wanted you to know it's appreciated.

[Jim Mason]

Not my work, Charlie Stephens and Marco...fwiw,jm

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Jim Mason

Not my work, Charlie Stephens and Marco...fwiw,jm

Still miss your website. There are still many sites out there that have (now defunct) links to your old site.