Head Gasket

[bosticjb]

Got to pull my head getting water into cylinders , head been on for at least 5 years, any tricks to getting it off withot damage to head or me ?

[Gary WA]

First remove hood and rods,distributor, fan belt.Drain radiator, I place piece cardboard in front of radiator, to protect while removing head, remove nuts,, start trying to lift head up with water pump attached or removed. may need a little help with some putty knives. others will have their ideas they all work!

[David R.]

Only been on 5 years? Should pop right off. I'm guessing the AA head I pulled had been on about 35 years. Took me a couple days.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Be very careful of shoving wedge shaped items between block and head . You can damage sealing capabilities, as well as bending a valve if the wedge goes in the right place to far.
One method, relative safe is unbolt the head, and crank the engine. That should pop it loose. Also the problem of removal is rust/sticky studs. Use some GOOD rust penatrate like aero kroil. Not WD 40.

[1930-Pickup]

To remove the head, has anyone ever loosened the head nuts just a little, and then started the engine? The head pops loose immediately.

I've never used this procedure, but I've read about people successfully doing it, even on other engines with cylinder head studs like the Model A.

For those who are unfamiliar with procedures like this, please be sure to drain the cooling system first.

[Johnny Nitro]

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Originally Posted by 1930-Pickup

To remove the head, has anyone ever loosened the head nuts just a little, and then started the engine? The head pops loose immediately.

I've never used this procedure, but I've read about people successfully doing it, even on other engines with cylinder head studs like the Model A.

For those who are unfamiliar with procedures like this, please be sure to drain the cooling system first.

That’s my method. Works every time...for me

[Jacksonlll]

Here is what we just did.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyyIks2Wad4

[David R.]

Also the problem of removal is rust/sticky studs. Use some GOOD rust penatrate like aero kroil. Not WD 40.[/QUOTE]

Best penetrating oil I’ve found is mixing 1/2 transmission fluid and 1/2 acetone in pump oil can. You have to make it as you need it because the acetone tends to evaporate. The next best, even better than aero-kroil is a penetrating oil by seafoam but they are both pretty pricey and the homemade stuff works as good or better and I use lots of it.

[Harpkatt]

Unbolting the head and turning the engine over is the technique I've heard most.
I recently heard of somebody shoving soft rope into the spark plug holes head before turning it over, Imagine that is for a really stuck. I'd tread lightly.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by 1930-Pickup

To remove the head, has anyone ever loosened the head nuts just a little, and then started the engine? The head pops loose immediately.

I've read about people successfully doing it, even on other engines with cylinder head studs like the Model A.

For those who are unfamiliar with procedures like this, please be sure to drain the cooling system first.

Sometimes that method works, depends on the condition of the motor. If the head bolts are rusted to the head, if you have had a bad head gasket and coolant has rusted/corroded the head/block, if you have a lot of rust/corrosion on the outside of the motor - this method probably will not work.



The danger in the rope method is you can break internal motor parts, and if the bearings were good possibly damage the bearings.

[katy]

First remove hood and rods

That is not necessary. It just makes it easier, going from side to side.

[Bruce of MN]

These are very helpful:

https://www.brattons.com/engine-or-head-puller.html

Prices vary among the vendors.

[bdtutton]

I had rust around all my bolts through the head and it was almost impossible to move so I finally decided to buy a head puller and it was more than worth the money. It still was not easy, but I probably would have damaged the head without a proper head puller.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Originally Posted by bdtutton

I had rust around all my bolts through the head and it was almost impossible to move so I finally decided to buy a head puller and it was more than worth the money. It still was not easy, but I probably would have damaged the head without a proper head puller.

Things always work easier and usually with a better outcome when using the right tool.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

There is an alternative type head puller that reportedly works well on really stubborn heads. Typically homemade. Instead of using something that pulls on the head from above, it uses bolts against the head studs.



Here is an example, start with the 1st post in the thread
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...te+head+puller