Connecting wire to oil pressure sending unit

[zuburg]

Another wiring question. The oil pressure sending unit has a strange connection, just a round brass piece with a groove. I assume I should just strip a few inches of insulation and wind the wire around in the groove? Doesn’t seem like a very good way to have a proper connection?

Also, is 16 or 18 gauge the right size for this wire?

What gauge should be used for the wire from the distributor to the coil?

[KULTULZ]

The sender takes a snap-on clip. Find at NAPA.

16GA for the DIST wire.

[dmsfrr]

Two pictures of a slip-on connector... the ones I found on in my '55 and '57 are the same.

[Daves55Sedan]

Actually, the factory made a "special" type of push-on terminal for the oil sending unit. It looks like an ordinary push-on terminal, except that the oil sender terminal has a rounded out end close to the wire connection where you slip that end over the round oil sender contact, then pull the terminal down toward the flat part of the terminal until it snaps in place over the round brass contact. It is now "captured".
The reproduced wire-harnesses I have seen, use an exact reproduction of the factory terminal and it is the only one like it in the whole harness.
YOU CAN USE a standard push-on terminal at the end of the white/red sender wire, but it may be necessary to modify the capture portions of the clip a little bit using a hammer, vice and miniature straight-blade screwdriver, BUT you must be real careful not to bugger up the capture feature of the terminal such that it easily falls off the sender. Make modifications to a loose terminal and test-fit it onto the sending unit prior to installing the terminal on the wire to make sure it will stay on snug.

[Daves55Sedan]

The original wiring for control & instrument circuits on cars with 12-volt system is 16 ga. Wiring for main power supply, induction motors, sealed beam lamps and resistance circuits may require larger size wiring depending upon current draw of the device or lamp.
Almost all your under-dash wiring including all dash bulbs, guages and courtesy lights is 16 ga. Exceptions: heater motor power leads, Headlight power leads; Incoming power lead to headlight switch, Cigar lighter, clock and radio.

[paul2748]

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The oil sender wire is a separate item and can be purchased from the parts suppliers with the correct end.

[zuburg]

Thanks, I bought the wire and couldn’t see how it attached, and Mac’s didn’t know either.

[KULTULZ]

... and Mac’s didn’t know either

Now why does that not surprise me ...

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by zuburg

... and Mac’s didn’t know either.

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Now why does that not surprise me ...

This is exactly why I prefer to buy '55/'57 T-Bird parts from places like Hills, Casco or Prestige.
They have in-house repair and restoration shops where they use the parts they sell.
You can call their Tech folks and speak directly with a person who already knows what you're talking about and has actually installed or repaired those parts before.
If the parts might cost a tiny bit more than a low budget outfit it's worth it for the valuable information they willingly share.
.

[paul2748]

That's another reason why I don't buy from Mac's. No tech like CASCO and Hill's.

Originally Posted by zuburg

Thanks, I bought the wire and couldn’t see how it attached, and Mac’s didn’t know either.

[Daves55Sedan]

If they sent you the right wire and associated terminal, you should be able to attach it by placing the back (half-rounded) portion of the terminal at a slant upon the sending unit and pull it into place until you feel it snap. Notice the small indented part at the clamp-end of the terminal. That dent places tension against the sending unit and terminal clamp.
The picture that dmsfrr shows is the right terminal. If the one you got doesn't look like that, you got the wrong one.

[Gene F]

Originally Posted by paul2748

That's another reason why I don't buy from Mac's. No tech like CASCO and Hill's.

How is CASCO for repairs? I'm not too far from them, and sometimes I have less time, and more cash. Seems every time I try to hire something out though it's not right in some way....

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Gene F

How is CASCO for repairs? I'm not too far from them, and sometimes I have less time, and more cash. Seems every time I try to hire something out though it's not right in some way....

It depends on what repairs you're looking for. I'm pretty sure they send some parts out for repairs, brake boosters, steering boxes & pwr steering cylinders, etc. Call them and ask.
https://www.classictbird.com/

If they're near you, Hill's Automotive may be also... https://hillsresto.com/

I'm too far from either of them for repairs but would if I were closer. .
.

[bobss396]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

Two pictures of a slip-on connector... the ones I found on in my '55 and '57 are the same.

This is the female part of a spade connector, which will work just fine. Just about any terminal assortment will have them.

[bobss396]

Originally Posted by paul2748

That's another reason why I don't buy from Mac's. No tech like CASCO and Hill's.

I avoid puppy-mill suppliers like Mac's too. With the thousands I've spent elsewhere, never a dime to them.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by bobss396

This is the female part of a spade connector, which will work just fine. Just about any terminal assortment will have them.

The oil pressure switch connector, on the right in this photo, is a slightly different shape than a generic spade connector, which could fairly easily be made to work.

[Gene F]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

It depends on what repairs you're looking for. I'm pretty sure they send some parts out for repairs, brake boosters, steering boxes & pwr steering cylinders, etc. Call them and ask.
https://www.classictbird.com/

If they're near you, Hill's Automotive may be also... https://hillsresto.com/

I'm too far from either of them for repairs but would if I were closer. .
.

I'm about an hour from CASCO, and about 2 hours from Hills. Hills is fine, AS LONG AS MARVIN is NOT AWAY IN FLORIDA. If you know what I mean...

I'm OK with a shop sending assembles out to specialists. In fact, in most cases I think you fair better that way.