`35 intake manifold - differences in aluminum and years

[wingerdinger]

I need to replace the intake manifold on my 1935 Ford 1-1/2 ton.
The one I have is cast iron.

Is there any advantage to going to an aluminum manifold, or a newer one if it fits?
I read somewhere that the intake manifold itself is the same from 1935 to 1948, except for the vent/oil filler tube, and the fuel pump shaft, because of the difference in the height at the fuel pump mount.
Any experts on this, please???
I have several leads, but am unable to tell what fits
I am looking for a replacement if anyone has one.

[JM 35 Sedan]

What is wrong with your existing cast iron intake that requires it to be replaced. Could it be repaired? That year truck came with a CI intake, so going to an aluminum passenger car/light commercial intake would not be correct if you plan to show your truck for points judging.
I don't believe that aluminum would have any advantage other than some may think it looks better/nicer.
I did read a test report by George Mitchell (also known here as G.M.) that a cast iron intake transferred less heat to a mechanical fuel pump if/when considering how to prevent vapor lock when just using a mechanical fuel pump with no backup electric to rely on (especially the glass bowl versions) with today's 10% alcohol gas.
I have a cast iron intake on a '35-'36 21 stud LB engine that I may be talked into selling.

[wingerdinger]

I am reluctant to admit what is wrong with my current manifold, but here goes..
I was in the middle of replacing the clutch and pressure plate, and looked under the hood to see if I had adequate clearance from the fan to the radiator, to raise the rear of the motor to remove the transmission...and thought I did.
I proceeded to lift the rear of the motor, and push the fan/generator into the radiator hard enough to crack the mount.
I think it could be repaired, but I'd need to remove it anyway, and they seem inexpensive enough.
I don't really ever plan to show it, but I will stick with iron. Thanks for your advise, John.

Do I really need to learn everything the hard way??

[Jim in Wisconsin]

I have three of those manifolds on the shelf. One aluminum and two cast iron. One of the cast iron ones is right for your truck, I think. If you could put a picture of yours I could compare it. I suppose shipping would be expensive.
Jim S.

[FlatheadTed]

I just did this on a 35 car its a cast one now but had put a longer fuel rod in and had to block up a Vacuum hole on the carb riser .Ted

[wingerdinger]

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I have decided to stick with cast iron.
Here are two pictures of mine, and one on my spare motor, which is the same.
The pictures don't show too much, as the manifold is still in the truck.
Jim in Wisconsin, where are you in Wisconsin ?, maybe I can come get one of your iron ones.

[36tbird]

It does not look to me like you hurt anything that would affect the structural integrity for the generator mount flange. Just for looks, I wonder if you could grind out a small trough along the crack line and work some JBWeld in there and then re-paint. Make sure you use a big strong washer behind the generator mount nut to disperse the load.

[Jim in Wisconsin]

I do have one that is just like yours and it's in nice shape. I'm in Sheboygan Falls (between Milwaukee and Green Bay), way on the other side of the state from you.

[dean333]

I'm in Shorewood Ill and also have one, shipping no more than $15. I sent two exhaust manifolds and a crossover pipe out west for $15

[FlatheadTed]

One thing you need to watch out for is the generator mount is lower also on some, so your fan can contact the coil !.