aluminum 'welding' Q...

[hardtimes]

Can anyone here who knows welding, say whether this broken '32 alum side cover can be successfully repaired (i.e.- looks/strength) ? Or do I have to recycle it ?

[trevo]

Providing it is Aluminium and not an odd alloy looks easy enough from your photos though it looks good quality to me cheers

[1931flathead]

have some bolt it down to something and have it tig weld it v it out before they do it Aluminium will

[woodiewagon46]

Yes, I would suggest TIG welding. One thing you must consider is the porosity of the aluminum. I once tried to repair a cracked, aluminum, '32 oil pan and despite several cleaning attempts every time I got a weld flowing I could actually see the oil coming to the surface. I had to have the pan heated vapor degreased.

[AnthonyG]

The cover looks to be a casting. Aluminum castings have irregular & more porosity than extruded or rolled aluminum which can as Woody indicates hold oil but even if clean can easily blow out with conventional Tig welding. You might be better off soldering, here's a good tech read on soldering aluminum. https://app.aws.org/wj/2004/02/046/

[hardtimes]

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Originally Posted by AnthonyG

The cover looks to be a casting. Aluminum castings have irregular & more porosity than extruded or rolled aluminum which can as Woody indicates hold oil but even if clean can easily blow out with conventional Tig welding. You might be better off soldering, here's a good tech read on soldering aluminum. https://app.aws.org/wj/2004/02/046/

Hey AnthonyG,
Thanks much for this good read !
Yeah, this is an OLD casted side plate. It is thicker than most that I've ever seen, so very sturdy...but obviously brittle.

I think that I'm going to try it (welding/soldering) myself, after reading all these guys input ! Good tips for neophyte !

Have you ever heard of or used alum welding or alum repair rod named: HTS-2000 ? I just found this product and it says can be used without flux.

[Vics Stuff]

Been welding aluminum for over 4 decades. As mentioned that you could tig weld the aluminum. You will 1st need to thoroughly scrub that area with powdered laundry detergent. Thuroughly wash the area with clean water . Next I would use a stainless steel brush to scrub that area again. Remember that the brush has to not touch any steel before. otherwise the stainless steel brush is not good for cleaning any aluminum any more.
Next Vee groove the area to be welded. When attempting to tig this piece i would recommend to pre heat the area to help in the welding process and also to check if the aluminum still carries any contaminents.
Vic

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by hardtimes

Can anyone here who knows welding, say whether this broken '32 alum side cover can be successfully repaired (i.e.- looks/strength) ? Or do I have to recycle it ?

I have used MUGGYWELD with success in the past. You don't need a Tig welder.
Check it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNC8Uivmqwk

[big job]

I'll get scuttled for this, I would just use epoxy, JB weld, or RTV sealant. Why? this part
is not structural, it is not pressurized, does not hold fluid etc. More to keep dust & dirt
out. Early Model T's had nothing but an open chamber. So just epoxy and clamp the
cover & sand and a coat of paint of your choice.....

[rich b]

If you intend to use it or if appearance is a factor, I would have it tig welded, following the above advice regarding cleaning, "cooking" the oil out, etc, probably the most important step. Maybe, back shield the seam while welding. Once welded; you should be able to cut the weld down and refinish it. The filler rod usually ends up a different color, not always real noticeable; but more so if polished.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by rich b

If you intend to use it or if appearance is a factor, I would have it tig welded, following the above advice regarding cleaning, "cooking" the oil out, etc, probably the most important step. Maybe, back shield the seam while welding. Once welded; you should be able to cut the weld down and refinish it. The filler rod usually ends up a different color, not always real noticeable; but more so if polished.

I would also recommend TIG welding. The weld may match the original
base metal. The different color when welding extrusions is due to the
weld is more like cast metal. On a casting it should match pretty good.
I started welding aluminum 70 years ago before TIG, all we had was
gas welding rods used with flux. I had one of the first TIG welders in
the Phila. Pa area. I used a high freq. unit that was used to make stick
electrodes easy to start, a small push button switch taped to the handle
of the torch and a 110 volt solenoid valve on the gas gauge. No flow
meter, an oxy gauge set at about 18 lbs. This was attached to a 180
amp AC Lincoln stick machine. Don't sound like much but it was a
big advance over the gas torch. Have all the equipment now but have
not done much aluminum welding in years. G.M.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Vics Stuff

Been welding aluminum for over 4 decades. As mentioned that you could tig weld the aluminum. You will 1st need to thoroughly scrub that area with powdered laundry detergent. Thuroughly wash the area with clean water . Next I would use a stainless steel brush to scrub that area again. Remember that the brush has to not touch any steel before. otherwise the stainless steel brush is not good for cleaning any aluminum any more.
Next Vee groove the area to be welded. When attempting to tig this piece i would recommend to pre heat the area to help in the welding process and also to check if the aluminum still carries any contaminents.
Vic

Hey Vic,
Great tech and that I can do , to get ready for a tig welder
Thanks for sharing over 40 yrs of experience !!

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT

I have used MUGGYWELD with success in the past. You don't need a Tig welder.
Check it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNC8Uivmqwk

Very helpful, and since I do not have a tig welder....this may be my route !

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by big job

I'll get scuttled for this, I would just use epoxy, JB weld, or RTV sealant. Why? this part
is not structural, it is not pressurized, does not hold fluid etc. More to keep dust & dirt
out. Early Model T's had nothing but an open chamber. So just epoxy and clamp the
cover & sand and a coat of paint of your choice.....

No scuttling here !
If you look closely at my pics, you will see some type of 'weld' material that possibly fits into your suggested items. So , I'm thankful for your suggestions, but shy to use what someone tried before me.
BTW..I use '32 B blocks and fully pressurize the oiling system. So, the inside of this cover, especially the lower 2 inches , where high pressure runs, is constantly subjected to oil pressure.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by rich b

If you intend to use it or if appearance is a factor, I would have it tig welded, following the above advice regarding cleaning, "cooking" the oil out, etc, probably the most important step. Maybe, back shield the seam while welding. Once welded; you should be able to cut the weld down and refinish it. The filler rod usually ends up a different color, not always real noticeable; but more so if polished.

G.M. and rich b,
Appreciate your sharing these tips and your knowledge, so:
Clean, Vee area, stainless brush, clamping, backing, pre-heating and refinishing.
I'll let you guys know what process used and if/ when completed

[JWL]

Here are the facts as I see them. And, I say these things after TIG welding thousands of aluminum joints.

If you are not going to do the job yourself, do not follow any advice about how to clean or "Vee" groove or any other preparation step. Leave that for the professional selected to do the job. In most cases the job is made more difficult when the inexperienced "helper" gets involved. I would much rather do the prep the way I want it done.

[tubman]

After seeing the thread on the 32 water pump ($500 for a rebuilt!), I have believe that is one valuable part you have there. I'd only trust that to a very experienced professional with a good reputation (they are out there). I had a similar experience with a motor mount tab broken off a fresh, full-race early hemi. After going through this same sort of exercise, I found a guy who specialized in this sort of thing, and I'm glad I did

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by JWL

Here are the facts as I see them. And, I say these things after TIG welding thousands of aluminum joints.

If you are not going to do the job yourself, do not follow any advice about how to clean or "Vee" groove or any other preparation step. Leave that for the professional selected to do the job. In most cases the job is made more difficult when the inexperienced "helper" gets involved. I would much rather do the prep the way I want it done.

Hey JWL,
Darn good advice , thanks !
I've had same thoughts, and I've been there and done that...regarding cleaning up after someone's 'mess'.
Note:
Just got a great PM tip to check out a professional , said to be capable of making this repair (thanks Jerry !).

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by tubman

After seeing the thread on the 32 water pump ($500 for a rebuilt!), I have believe that is one valuable part you have there. I'd only trust that to a very experienced professional with a good reputation (they are out there). I had a similar experience with a motor mount tab broken off a fresh, full-race early hemi. After going through this same sort of exercise, I found a guy who specialized in this sort of thing, and I'm glad I did

Hey tubman,
Yeah, my eyes bulged a little at that $500. figure also !
I'm a DIY kind and 'takes my chances' at times, knowing that IT might be scrapped or not. But, this side plate came to me from a 100 yr old banger builder/racer (RIP) whose last B block I just rebuilt and I think that he would smile at this warmed up '32 ! I'd like to use this side cover on my next build, as it is an OHV side cover and thicker than any I've seen.