Looking for a new radiator at a reasonable price. Any ideas?

[Theo]

Hi guys. I recently got my 1930 model a tudor running and driving. The problem is, the radiator is shot, and leaks out the core and the end tanks. I was thinking about rebuilding it, until i saw a huge amount of solder all over the tanks. So basically this radiator is only scrap metal.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a good radiator at a decent price? I plan on keeping the car all stock, so I do not need a high performance one. Something equivalent to the factory radiator, or maybe a little bit better would be ideal. Not looking to spend an arm and a leg, but then again, I really do not know how much radiators go for on these cars.

Thanks!

[Blessyouboys]

I bought one from Brassworks a few years ago, and I couldn't be happier with it.

It fit well and it works.

[1931 flamingo]

If you've got an old time radiator shop nearby, take it to them, the lousy soldering job may have been a home fix. They can ck out the core and tanks for you, cheaper than replacing. Do a search here also, guy's swear by a place called Berg's ( I may be wrong on the name but someone will chime in and correct me).
Paul in CT

[RonC]

try this. your radiator is not under pressure.

http://www.kmart.com/shc/s/p_10151_1...=00-65952995-2

[Theo]

Originally Posted by Blessyouboys

I bought one from Brassworks a few years ago, and I couldn't be happier with it.

It fit well and it works.

Which one did you buy? Do you think it would be worth it to get the pressurized one?

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

If you've got an old time radiator shop nearby, take it to them, the lousy soldering job may have been a home fix. They can ck out the core and tanks for you, cheaper than replacing. Do a search here also, guy's swear by a place called Berg's ( I may be wrong on the name but someone will chime in and correct me).
Paul in CT

Thanks for the info. I was thinking about getting it rebuilt, but it looks to far gone.

Originally Posted by RonC

try this. your radiator is not under pressure.

http://www.kmart.com/shc/s/p_10151_1...=00-65952995-2

Do you think this would work? It is leaking out of the bottom left part of the core, and above the hose on the end tank

[Dennis/CT]

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I have a recored radiator that does'nt have the baffle in it. The top tank needs to come off to replace the baffle.It cost me $395.00 to recore it and I'm asking $250.00 plus shipping. Thanks Dennis

[RonC]

I would try it. Back flush out your radiator and fill it with 50-50 prestone antifreeze and a bottle of the bars pellet stop leak. Run the car around after you put it in the water to seal the leaks. It works really well. Anytime you flush your radiator you have to readd the stop leak again.

If it still leaks bad then pull the radiator and find someone who works on old radiators. Ask a local club member because chances are your local shop will trash your radiator. They will apply 15+ pounds of pressure to it and it will split apart. Then they will say your core is no good. Tell them not to put anymore than 3-5 pounds of pressure to test it for leaks.

[Barry B./ Ma.]

I bought a couple Brassworks (for the roadster and town sedan) years back with good results and last year I bought a three tube for the 29 from Brattons at a much lower price than the Brassworks and have been very happy with it.

[A-Jay]

Theo, just remember all that crap you pour in the radiator to plug the leak is also running through the engine . When I got my car I had a very small leak after a hot run. So one day I was going to flush system and refill with distilled water. When I went to drain the system even the petcock was stopped up and I had to clear it with a piece of coat hanger. Lots of brown stuff (stop leak)came out and I flushed it a couple of times then filled her up. Than she leaked like a sieve. I was draining and refilling between weekend runs for a while, because I washed out all that stop leak type of stuff.

If you what to drive,cruise, tour and don't want to always be looking under the car or at the motometer when sitting in traffic. Have the radiator fixed by a old fat guy who knows how to fix them old days way. Or buy a new one which run $500-$600 bucks. I installed one from Brassworks a 10 fin non pressurized one that works great. To replace a radiator in a Model A is a pretty big job compared to a 70' -80' car. You only want to do it once. Buy all the little stuff like the spring mounts that hold the radiator to the frame and the lacing around the stainless cover while its off. What the hec how about a water pump ! that's a great time to replace it while nothing is in front of it.

My car runs so cool now, I had to put in a 160 stat for wintertime. I should have put in a 180 but what ever.

P.S. the motometer had to be modified to fit the neck of the brassworks Radiator, but all was good when it was back together.

[Theo]

Originally Posted by A-Jay

Theo, just remember all that crap you pour in the radiator to plug the leak is also running through the engine . When I got my car I had a very small leak after a hot run. So one day I was going to flush system and refill with distilled water. When I went to drain the system even the petcock was stopped up and I had to clear it with a piece of coat hanger. Lots of brown stuff (stop leak)came out and I flushed it a couple of times then filled her up. Than she leaked like a sieve. I was draining and refilling between weekend runs for a while, because I washed out all that stop leak type of stuff.

If you what to drive,cruise, tour and don't want to always be looking under the car or at the motometer when sitting in traffic. Have the radiator fixed by a old fat guy who knows how to fix them old days way. Or buy a new one which run $500-$600 bucks. I installed one from Brassworks a 10 fin non pressurized one that works great. To replace a radiator in a Model A is a pretty big job compared to a 70' -80' car. You only want to do it once. Buy all the little stuff like the spring mounts that hold the radiator to the frame and the lacing around the stainless cover while its off. What the hec how about a water pump ! that's a great time to replace it while nothing is in front of it.

My car runs so cool now, I had to put in a 160 stat for wintertime. I should have put in a 180 but what ever.

P.S. the motometer had to be modified to fit the neck of the brassworks Radiator, but all was good when it was back together.

This is probably what I am going to wind up doing. I was thinking about replacing almost everything in the cooling system while I had it off. Hoses, clamps, water pump, belt and thermostat. I really dont trust rebuilding this one because its in really sad shape.

[Blessyouboys]

Originally Posted by Theo

Which one did you buy? Do you think it would be worth it to get the pressurized one?

Flat tube, 6fpi.

I don't have a pressurized coolant system, and I cannot speak to its worth. I know that I don't need one.

[Gary Gregory]

Got mine from Bergs. He uses orginal top and bottom tanks so they fit right.

[sturgis 39]

I bought one from Brass Works. It works great. A month after it was installed the fan blade broke off and put a big scar on the radiator. The radiator did not leak. I ran the car without the fan for a while. It did not over heat. I never had real good luck with the manometer. I tried one on the old radiator and it was hard to read from the drivers seat. I know it was getting hot when there were liquid drops on the windshield. I went with a mechanical temperature gauge. I mounted the probe in lower radiator hose which is the inlet to the engine.

Remember a copper radiator cools better than aluminum. The "R" value for copper is about half of aluminum.

[Fred K-OR]

I got mine from Bert's in Denver. Was a heavy duty one with more cores in it. Came very close to the fan but I have had no problems with it and it does not get very hot at all. But you get what you pay for.

[Theo]

I am probably going to go with a 10 fin per inch one. Probably the brassworks. I think I will need something that cools a little better than stock since I will be pretty much driving this car atleast 3 or 4 times a week. I also live in an area with alot of hills so I think it would help out abit.

[Mike in NRN IN]

Got mine from berg's. A recored radiator and he took my old one in trade.

Not a bad deal and I've been running cool this summer (90+ degrees during five slow moving parades.)

http://www.bergsradiator.com/modela.html

[Mike V. Florida]

My vote is Bergs as well.

[28 Special Coupe]

I have a Brassworks 10 fin per inch in my '28 Special Coupe. It's definitely been worth the money. I've been driving around in 100+ degree heat the past few weeks and it's performed beautifully. No regrets here.

[Special Coupe Frank]

I too have a Brassworks 10-fin radiator in my '28 Special Coupe, for about a year now.

Very happy with it.

Car came with an ancient aftermarket Kramer radiator (Trenton, NJ) that leaked like a sieve.

[Ronnie Lawson]

I purchased a radiator from Brassworks. The upper funnel was 7/8 inch too low. I called Brassworks and they said to send it back and they would make me another. I told them that I would like to know the root cause of why it was too low. The top radiator hose would kink up when I tried to put it on.
My car is a 1929 Town Sedan. In October 1929 Ford changed the mounting surface for the radiator pads. They lowered the pads 3/8 of an inch and added 3/8 of an inch shim on each side until the end of 1929 production. I put 3/8 shim under the mounting pad and the radiator was still 1/2 inch too low. A Friend of mine had an original 1929 Ford radiator and he brought it over and it fit like a glove. We laid both radiators down side by side and we found that the angle of the funnel was not the same on the two. We also noted that the boss that the funnel was supposed to set in side was not correct on the Brassworks radiator it was 1/2" too low. I sent pictures back to Brassworks and Mr. Lee said send radiator back and he will build a new one. I shipped it back and it cost $75 shipping. Two weeks latter Brass works called and wanted to charge shipping for the new radiator. I told them no that I had paid for shipping two times and that I was not going to pay for shipping the third time. I asked for my $75 back and was told they would not pay return shipping. Brassworks said that they would send me a refund if I was not happy but not return shipping. They did send me my refund back but not the $75 return shipping. If the second radiator was also bad I would have to pay shipping back to them again. How many times do I should I have to pay for a defective radiator that was the manufactures fault? See pictures on the attachment to the right. One half of an inch too low.pdf