Horn wiring problem 35 pickup

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

Lawson....Have you ever grounded "the contact at the switch" with a jumper wire???

I don't understand your question really. As I understand the setup, there is a wire that runs INSIDE the horn rod that terminates at one end, under the horn button, and at the other end, at the lower end of the horn rod, it makes contact with the center post of the actual switch. When the horn button is pushed down, it completes the circuit and the horn blows. All of this is contained within the switch housing at the end of the steering rod, and the steering column tube that runs from just under the steering wheel to the switch housing. Where would you run a jumper wire?

Also, are there two different bail wires to hold the switch housing onto the steering gear box for different years? Mine will not snap into the indentions on the switch housing and thus appears to be a little short, maybe .25 inch.

[JSeery]

Do you have a Green Book Lawson?

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

I don't understand your question really. As I understand the setup, there is a wire that runs INSIDE the horn rod that terminates at one end, under the horn button, and at the other end, at the lower end of the horn rod, it makes contact with the center post of the actual switch. When the horn button is pushed down, it completes the circuit and the horn blows. All of this is contained within the switch housing at the end of the steering rod, and the steering column tube that runs from just under the steering wheel to the switch housing. Where would you run a jumper wire?

Also, are there two different bail wires to hold the switch housing onto the steering gear box for different years? Mine will not snap into the indentions on the switch housing and thus appears to be a little short, maybe .25 inch.

What I'm saying is to unclip/remove the switch housing from the steering column/tube. Twist the switch housing apart to expose the contacts on the switch plate. With a grounded jumper wire, touch the center (horn) contact on the contact plate and the horn should sound. If it doesn't, your problem is not with the horn button/rod....

You also said: "Also, are there two different bail wires to hold the switch housing onto the steering gear box for different years? Mine will not snap into the indentions on the switch housing and thus appears to be a little short, maybe .25 inch." - This could be causing your problem! You might have a 1/4 inch air gap between the horn rod end and the center contact in the switch. Push in and hold the switch housing as tight as it will go into the steering tube and have a helper push the horn button....

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Due you have a Green Book Lawson?

Yes I do. I see there are two types of bails. Know where I can get specs. I'll look it up. That may be part of my problem. Horn has been blowing great in the past, with no changes before it quit.

[Lawson Cox]

Pete. I'll try this "Push in and hold the switch housing as tight as it will go into the steering tube and have a helper push the horn button.... " I believe I have probably done that, but I'll try again. Will be out of town for 2 weeks. Will check it again when I return home. Lawson.

[koates]

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Pete, I have been through this grounding the centre switch brass contact with a jumper wire over a week ago with Lawson and he did the test and the horn works. Have been through the test for continuity of the horn rod and button contacts with a multimeter which he has done and he says there is NO CONTINUITY. He has to fix this and get it working. Don't you read the earlier posts ? Only complicating this for Lawson who seems not to be able to nut a simple problem out. I think some of the reproduction bails that hold the switch on are not the correct shape. There are also variations in the shape of the lower body switch housings for different years. Pity we could not see some pics of his switch. Reading all these posts is now frustrating and we are only going over ground previously covered. Any way we have two weeks to think about it. Regards, Kevin.

[koates]

Lawson, I have just checked all the posts on your problem. The first lot of posts were 25 in number and this lot is 26 so far. IM getting weary. When you dismantled the horn button contacts and reassembled them did you do the continuity test again with your multimeter and establish if the horn rod is NOW OK or NOT OK. You did not state that you retested the horn rod. Please follow and do these tests otherwise we are wasting time. Regards, Kevin.

[Lawson Cox]

Yes. I re tested continuity in the horn rod, and it is fine. I'm going out of town for two weeks and will give you guys a break LOL. I will re-test again when I get back home. This thing has me completely stumped.

[trevo]

Recently my 34 horn stopped working took the rod out and found the wire inside the rod had broken at the horn buttonend cordbobs photos shows the assembly after some reconnecting the wire inside the insulation issues reassembled it found it worked for a short time have just now taken the horn button completely apart again and a conductivity issue between the horn button base and the horn rod tube that is the wire must be insulated from the tube and the tube horn button base must be in contact am assembling refitting today hope my issue assists you

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by trevo

Recently my 34 horn stopped working took the rod out and found the wire inside the rod had broken at the horn buttonend cordbobs photos shows the assembly after some reconnecting the wire inside the insulation issues reassembled it found it worked for a short time have just now taken the horn button completely apart again and a conductivity issue between the horn button base and the horn rod tube that is the wire must be insulated from the tube and the tube horn button base must be in contact am assembling refitting today hope my issue assists you

Trevo:

Keep us posted on your progress, and especially problems with soldering the ends back. I'm afraid I may be facing the same dilemma.

Lawson

[rbullockv8]

Lawson, I know you're heading out of town. But I thought of another thread that mentioned the overly-stiff spring down on the switch end. This makes it very tough to get the switch body pushed onto the steering box end plate mount, and thereby makes getting the bail snapped hard, too. Mine was so stiff, I didn't even realize the switch body was not seating fully. Some guys mentioned cutting down that bottom spring a little to ease the tension (or trying to find one at a hardware store that is not as stiff). Just something else to consider if you're killing your hands trying to get the switch body seated.

[trevo]

I have reassembled the horn button and refitted it to the steering column it now works just fine if the wire from the button to the bottom is fully insulated and the soldered end makes good contact with the spring loaded brass when the button is pushed it should work cheers