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Old 08-15-2022, 05:28 PM   #1
Dennisfly
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Default 35 Horn

Just purchased a 35, pictures were included in my first post, and the horn doesn't work. The battery is good and I have power to the horn. When I push the horn button there is a click sound at the horn. I removed the horn and disassembled it. Pictures are attached.


I see there is a spring under one end of the bar in picture 2 and the silver screw in picture 3 adjusts tension on the spring. I tried making adjustments and it still doesn't honk.


I measured 6 ohms across the power terminals that powers what looks like a solenoid coil.


Any suggestions on what I should do next are greatly appreciated.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Horn 1.jpg (64.3 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg Horn 2.jpg (59.5 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg Horn 3.jpg (56.2 KB, 29 views)
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1929 Town Sedan (Briggs) 155B, Mitchell Overdrive
1935 Model 48 Tudor
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Old 08-15-2022, 06:12 PM   #2
Terry,OH
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Default Re: 35 Horn

The original horn mechanism appears nothing like what you have. Yours are replacements sold aftermarket.
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Old 08-15-2022, 07:37 PM   #3
35fordtn
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Default Re: 35 Horn

The horn you have is a reproduction made by DMC. We stock them their last batch is nothing but JUNK. I am forced to discontinue them and refund all defective ones with no support from the MFG. Trust me unless the vendor you purchased it from is unwilling to take a return you are likely at a loss here. The only benefit is the projector and motor cover will fit a original. I'd hunt for a working original..... This coming from someone that has 27 of these new ones in stock which equates to a huge loss
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Old 08-16-2022, 10:58 AM   #4
rotorwrench
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Default Re: 35 Horn

The vibrator coil in that horn design is an interesting deviation from the old conventional vibrators used in the past. The design was likely to make it more compact to fit inside the housing. I can't tell how much is adjustable on the points set up for this one. It appears to have an adjustment for diaphragm air gap and for tension on the points arm I just wonder what has been the failure point on these? Back in the day, they would adjust for a specific current draw of the vibrator circuit while in operation. No telling what the specs are for this design. A good set of points should last a long time on a vibrator circuit. If they are cheap crap than that might be the only problem.

The diaphragm has that washer fixed to it with the protrusion that I assume is what pushes against the points arm so as to open the points when it makes contact. This item has to be in proper position to operate the points or there will be no sounding function. The rest depends on the points condition and adjustment. If the points don't open then it won't vibrate. The air gap between the vibrator coil core & diaphragm has to be set to manufacturers specs what ever that is. I just know that the diaphragm has to be able to move for it to vibrate.

Last edited by rotorwrench; 08-16-2022 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 08-17-2022, 07:08 PM   #5
Dennisfly
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Default Re: 35 Horn

Thanks 3rd Gen. I didn't buy it from a supplier. I just bought the car and it was what came with it. It makes one click and that is it. So the new reproductions listed for about $225 from some suppliers are the same as I have and will not last long?
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Old 08-17-2022, 07:20 PM   #6
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Default Re: 35 Horn

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rotorwrench View Post
The vibrator coil in that horn design is an interesting deviation from the old conventional vibrators used in the past. The design was likely to make it more compact to fit inside the housing. I can't tell how much is adjustable on the points set up for this one. It appears to have an adjustment for diaphragm air gap and for tension on the points arm I just wonder what has been the failure point on these? Back in the day, they would adjust for a specific current draw of the vibrator circuit while in operation. No telling what the specs are for this design. A good set of points should last a long time on a vibrator circuit. If they are cheap crap than that might be the only problem.

The diaphragm has that washer fixed to it with the protrusion that I assume is what pushes against the points arm so as to open the points when it makes contact. This item has to be in proper position to operate the points or there will be no sounding function. The rest depends on the points condition and adjustment. If the points don't open then it won't vibrate. The air gap between the vibrator coil core & diaphragm has to be set to manufacturers specs what ever that is. I just know that the diaphragm has to be able to move for it to vibrate.

Rotorwrench


I did disassemble it further after my first post. The points were somewhat dirty and pitted so I filed them. I tried adjusting the screw that controls the points gap 1/2 turn at a time and there is a range where the points can be heard opening and closing when power is applied or removed, but no horn sound. I also tried adjusting the diaphragm air gap in increments but still no sound. Maybe there is a correct combination of these two screw adjustments, but if so, I haven't found it yet.
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Old 08-18-2022, 11:19 AM   #7
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Default Re: 35 Horn

The vibrator coil should pull the diaphragm enough for the points to open. If everything is right then it will do this opening and closing very rapidly but if it won't open the points then it won't kill the magnetic field in the coil core so there will be no vibration. If the points open then they have to close as well but this is all that they do in this relationship. The rest is up to the electromagnet design and whether it has enough power to start the vibration process. The coil of magnet wire should have a specific number or turns and gauge of wire that will give it enough magnetic attraction or gauss with the voltage applied. If the coil has a short or an intermittent open condition then it would likely never work unless rewound with good wire but I don't even know if this can be easily done. There could be a problem at one of the soldered connections too. An Ohms meter could be used to see if there is at least continuity and what the coil ohms are currently. I have no idea what they should be. This could check the points opening as well. It shouldn't take too much pressure to open the points but is has to have enough for them to close again too. It all happens at high speed so it has to be right to function.

Ford used to power the horn with a hot wire direct to the generator in the early days and the horn button provided the ground path but a lot of these modern replacements have to have a horn relay to make them work with heavier wire for the amperage flow and connections close to the battery or generator. The horn button would only ground the relay to make it work and the relay switch would allow the high current flow to the horn or horns. Two horns draw a lot of current and sometimes the generator and battery have to both be functional in order for the horn to work on 6-volt systems with two vibrators in the circuit. One horn isn't as bad since it only has half the current draw.
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Old 08-18-2022, 11:21 AM   #8
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Default Re: 35 Horn

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennisfly View Post
Thanks 3rd Gen. I didn't buy it from a supplier. I just bought the car and it was what came with it. It makes one click and that is it. So the new reproductions listed for about $225 from some suppliers are the same as I have and will not last long?
Yes, exactly they work "ok" if you are 12Volt the 6 volt versions are nothing but issues. The only way I can make the 6 volt version "toot" if to throw 12 Volts to it. The Manufacturer is fully aware of the issue, so maybe one day they will fix it
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Old 08-18-2022, 07:21 PM   #9
rotorwrench
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Default Re: 35 Horn

I know the vibrator coil magnet wire has to have the correct gauge of wire and number of turns for the vibrator to work. It may just not have enough to do the job on 6-volts. A big old capacitor in the circuit may help but I don't know.
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