The Ford Barn

Bruce_MO · 10-07-2011, 12:33 PM

I have one stud/nut on the head of my freshly rebuilt engine that has a very slight weep that hasn't yet gone away after a few retorque cycles. I've seen some folks on Forbarn recommend using some block sealer to fix this.

Is there a specific brand that I should use? Thanks

CarlG · 10-07-2011, 03:01 PM

When this happened to me, I took drained the radiator down a bit, took the the offending stud out, coated the threads heavily with hi-temp gasket sealer, put it back in, and let it set up overnight. Then torqued the nut down, and it was good to go. No more "weaping".

BILL WILLIAMSON · 10-07-2011, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CarlG

When this happened to me, I took drained the radiator down a bit, took the the offending stud out, coated the threads heavily with hi-temp gasket sealer, put it back in, and let it set up overnight. Then torqued the nut down, and it was good to go. No more "weaping".

I had this happen once, and what Carl said works perfectly.
It probably was on the cable clamp stud, they should outlaw those armored cable clamps!

steve s · 10-07-2011, 10:07 PM

I believe that I once used blue silicone to stop such a leak. I wonder what such sealants due to the torque setting.

Steve

hardtimes · 10-07-2011, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve s

I believe that I once used blue silicone to stop such a leak. I wonder what such sealants due to the torque setting.

Steve

hey steve,
well shouldn't have any effect whatsoever on torque value....if done correctly. that is, the stud is seated/bottomed out ,by hand , properly..prior to any attempt at torqueing the NUT!
the torque is the clamping force that the NUT is exerting on the head...not on the stud.

Purdy Swoft · 10-08-2011, 01:13 PM

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I never use the cable clamp. The cable clamp makes it to hard to remove the distributor and I figure why run the risk of head gasket failure by loosening the head nut. I use a short length of armored cable to look sort of original and use the new improved ignition switch that looks sort of like a popout switch. This makes life much easier with the wires behind the instrument panel. I figure that the popout is just a problem waiting to happen and the modern switch works good for me.

hardtimes · 10-08-2011, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

I never use the cable clamp. The cable clamp makes it to hard to remove the distributor and I figure why run the risk of head gasket failure by loosening the head nut. I use a short length of armored cable to look sort of original and use the new improved ignition switch that looks sort of like a popout switch. This makes life much easier with the wires behind the instrument panel. I figure that the popout is just a problem waiting to happen and the modern switch works good for me.

same setup/thinking here! works great...

10-07-2011, 12:33 PM	#1
Bruce_MO Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 433	Block Sealer question I have one stud/nut on the head of my freshly rebuilt engine that has a very slight weep that hasn't yet gone away after a few retorque cycles. I've seen some folks on Forbarn recommend using some block sealer to fix this. Is there a specific brand that I should use? Thanks

10-07-2011, 03:01 PM	#2
CarlG Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 9,115	Re: Block Sealer question When this happened to me, I took drained the radiator down a bit, took the the offending stud out, coated the threads heavily with hi-temp gasket sealer, put it back in, and let it set up overnight. Then torqued the nut down, and it was good to go. No more "weaping".

10-07-2011, 10:07 PM	#4
steve s Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kalamazoo Posts: 1,656	Re: Block Sealer question I believe that I once used blue silicone to stop such a leak. I wonder what such sealants due to the torque setting. Steve

10-08-2011, 01:13 PM	#6
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: Block Sealer question Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I never use the cable clamp. The cable clamp makes it to hard to remove the distributor and I figure why run the risk of head gasket failure by loosening the head nut. I use a short length of armored cable to look sort of original and use the new improved ignition switch that looks sort of like a popout switch. This makes life much easier with the wires behind the instrument panel. I figure that the popout is just a problem waiting to happen and the modern switch works good for me.