What options do I've left?

[34fordy]

[QUOTE=Conrad Rossi; I checked sometime ago the Barn roster and I didn’t find many members nearby in the Phoenix area.[/QUOTE]

How did you check the Fordbarn roster?

[deuce_roadster]

ford38v8
No, sadly you disrespectfully disagree which is fine. Everything here is an opinion. What I describe could be actually accomplished in your driveway by moving the car under its own power a short distance. Nothing I wrote could be construed as a "joy ride" which for me diminishes your opinion.

[Conrad Rossi]

Good morning All,

Thanks for your patience. I’m grateful for all of your quick and insightful responses and support. Life and other priorities wedged into the hobby and I couldn’t get back with you as quick as I should.

Indeed many options. And one correct one. Do it right and replace the axle, which I agree. Although, not to my liking because my fantasy was “let’s do brakes and drive it around the block and go for breakfast”. Probably, there are many other hidden issues.

I learned a lot from your input, especially second and third best options, and the safety drum clips so to not loose the wheel. I didn’t either about special tooling to fix the axle ends either.

So, where this leaves me? I need to start looking for an axle but first, I need to reevaluate everything from the axle in because everything needs to come off.

Now back to my nutty nut and axle. Attached are the pictures of what looks like. Note the drum comes out free.

[Conrad Rossi]

Originally Posted by richard crow

that thread is damaged because some one used p.o.s puller.now if you want to talk why the axles brake . thats a different story

Indeed. They didn’t know what they didn’t know. Probably because the guy I bought it from restored mustangs.

[Conrad Rossi]

Originally Posted by 34fordy

How did you check the Fordbarn roster?

I should have said that I searched in the control panel in The Barn for user profiles with a location being Arizona, Phoenix, or a city nearby. Location is a free-form text so it makes it trickier. What I did check, not very recently, was the Early Ford V8 Club.

[Conrad Rossi]

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Originally Posted by Eagle43

If I understand your situation correctly, you just need to straighten out the threads at the end so you can get the nut started. I would try a triangular file.

Thanks. I’ll mostly consider this option until I have an opportunity to replace this axle end or just rebuild it.

[Conrad Rossi]

Originally Posted by richard crow

most modern day mech, just replace parts years ago we repaird things if the thread passes the nut & coter pin hole lines up & its torqued its not going to come off. & if you put a little red lock tght on it you will need king kong to remove it

Yes, I didn’t thought of the red loctite. Given the very end is tilted up, I’m not sure I will have enough left after the corner pin hole if I file it.

[Fritz]

I wouldn’t file it or necessarily scrap the axle. Looks to me like someone cross threaded the nut and never fixed the threads. There looks to be good threads on the meaty part. Definitely good enough that I would try an axle thread repair chaser to clean up the threads on the end. Like the tool posted by ndnchf. If you can get them to take the nut and get it straight to the good threads, you’re fine.

[34fordy]

Buy a thread file with the proper pitch. Easy Peasy. Good threads under the cotter pin hole.

[deuce_roadster]

It does look like the threads are good in where they need to be. However, you have no way of knowing how many miles that drum and probably the other was loose. When seated properly, they are difficult to remove without the proper puller the pulls on the ridge built into the part of the drum that sticks out.
A club member used to have a broken axle end that he would bring to meetings to show members how you could see it had been cracked for a long time before it let go as it was dark and discolored in to where it broke and twisted off part was very clean and new looking.
You could remove the drum, clean everything, and there are some non magnaflux crack revealing chemicals that I think are used in the aviation business if you know any A&P mechanics you could check behind the end of the key slot. If you could determine there are NO cracks as far in as you can test you might be able to clean up the outer threads and get the drum to proper torque and put safety clips on to prevent losing the wheel in the event of a break. If it were me I would take the rear end apart and have both axles checked and or replaced. Only you can decide what your level of risk is you want to take.. Old rear end work has stinky old oil and not a lot of fun but even novice folks to old Fords can do it. Good luck with whatever you choose. I hope someone with some experience lives near you with the proper tools and can help.

[Bob C]

Since the threads look good below the cotter pin hole I would
use a rethreading tool to try and straighten the threads, I think a file is going to leave you with a bigger mess. There are 9 rethreaders on Epay. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Axle+rethreader

[Andy]

I used to retread perch bolts a lot. They have the same threads as the axles. I can rethread from the good threads out. My rethread tool is a very fine split adjustable set. I think I can fix it without welding on new material.
Just rethread would be $20.
Ps, steering shafts have the same threads.

[1942deluxe]

What did you end up doing?

[Conrad Rossi]

Hello --

Long time not posting. I ended up buying an axle rethread tool as Bob C recommended and I was able to successfully rethread the axle end. Successfully, without counting I bought two tools. I didn't have my glasses on and didn't notice it missed the diameter I needed.

Here's some pictures:

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Conrad Rossi

Hello --

Long time not posting. I ended up buying an axle rethread tool as Bob C recommended and I was able to successfully rethread the axle end. Successfully, without counting I bought two tools. I didn't have my glasses on and didn't notice it missed the diameter I needed.

Here's some pictures:

[Conrad Rossi]

Thank you, Petehoovie!!! You're a trooper.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by Conrad Rossi

Hello --

Long time not posting. I ended up buying an axle rethread tool as Bob C recommended and I was able to successfully rethread the axle end. Successfully, without counting I bought two tools. I didn't have my glasses on and didn't notice it missed the diameter I needed.

Here's some pictures:

Just curious how brave were you with the torque on that nut afterwards? Keep in mind that the axle key is not what takes the load, it is the fitment between the axle taper and the hub taper . . . which needs a lot of torque to "lock it in". The original specification is about 220 or so foot lbs . . . and it makes me nervous every time I torque an axle nut . . . even on a pristine example!

[Conrad Rossi]

Hi Bored&Stroked -

Not brave enough! I put it back to test it fit well. Thanks for the reminder to ensure a tight fit and to torque it to specs. I'm new to this and I'm eager to learn how to do it appropriately.

The car is on jack stands as it getting a complete brake job. I was able to find someone local that arch the shoes for me.

[Bored&Stroked]

I probably would not go to 220 FT LBS, if you can get to 160 - 180, I would be comfortable with it. I would put some anti-seize lubricant on the threads.

It is a nerve-racking experience tightening these nuts (on any axle!) . . . makes my sphincter snap every time I do it! LOL

That said, torque it (hopefully it holds!) . . . drive it a bit (making sure you go around some corners to put side-load on it), then torque it again.

Then after a few more drives, check it again. If it can hold the initial torque after as few drives and retorques, then I'd feel good about it.

[Conrad Rossi]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

I probably would not go to 220 FT LBS, if you can get to 160 - 180, I would be comfortable with it. I would put some anti-seize lubricant on the threads.

It is a nerve-racking experience tightening these nuts (on any axle!) . . . makes my sphincter snap every time I do it! LOL

That said, torque it (hopefully it holds!) . . . drive it a bit (making sure you go around some corners to put side-load on it), then torque it again.

Then after a few more drives, check it again. If it can hold the initial torque after as few drives and retorques, then I'd feel good about it.

Good plan! Thank you.