What options do I've left?

[Conrad Rossi]

Hello,

The rear left axle tip where the castle nut bolts on to keep the brake drum in place is bent and stripped. This explains why the seller gave the nut, washer, and cuttle pin in a bag when I bought the car. Lesson learned. I should have tried it to it back then. I didn't think anything of it because he had taken apart the front brakes and they were bagged as well.

As you can imagine it doesn't thread back in. It's bent enough the nut cannot "turn" when it's fastened.

What options do I have? Any tricks? Probably I'm not the first one having this issue.

Thanks.

[ford38v8]

Conrad, you have an unfortunate situation in which you must not drive the car until repaired, else risk an even more expensive repair. The nut must come off, and the axle replaced. Odds are, even now, you will need to sleeve the housing and replace the bearings. As you are apparently new to the Early Ford hobby, I'd advise you to join the Early Ford V8 Club of America, Phoenix Regional Group # 37, network with the members, and seek help there. Get hold of Brian Parks: [email protected] PH: 602-568-5896

[Eagle43]

Originally Posted by Conrad Rossi

Hello,

The rear left axle tip where the castle nut bolts on to keep the brake drum in place is bent and stripped. This explains why the seller gave the nut, washer, and cuttle pin in a bag when I bought the car. Lesson learned. I should have tried it to it back then. I didn't think anything of it because he had taken apart the front brakes and they were bagged as well.

As you can imagine it doesn't thread back in. It's bent enough the nut cannot "turn" when it's fastened.

What options do I have? Any tricks? Probably I'm not the first one having this issue.

Thanks.

If I understand your situation correctly, you just need to straighten out the threads at the end so you can get the nut started. I would try a triangular file.

[itslow]

A photo would really help to illustrate your exact situation and proper course of action.

It sounds to me like you need a replacement axle shaft.

[richard crow]

if its just flared on the end .jack up that side. place a horse under the housing leave the other side on the ground. remove the drum start the car put in speed . now hold a good file agenest the damage & remove it. if the damage is very bad hold a hack saw behind the damage & cut it off then chase the thread with a die if there is enought thread left to hold the nut

[ndnchf]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Your axle may very well need to be replaced. But there is a tool specifically made to straighten out damaged axle threads. These can be found at good vintage swap meets and ebay. The tool has a variety of thread sizes. It clamps over a good part of the threads, then you unscrew it off the axle. These were common tools in old school garages.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

Conrad, you have an unfortunate situation in which you must not drive the car until repaired, else risk an even more expensive repair. The nut must come off, and the axle replaced. Odds are, even now, you will need to sleeve the housing and replace the bearings. As you are apparently new to the Early Ford hobby, I'd advise you to join the Early Ford V8 Club of America, Phoenix Regional Group # 37, network with the members, and seek help there. Get hold of Brian Parks: [email protected] PH: 602-568-5896

This is the best advice. Replace the axle.
You know the old adage of "do it once, do it correctly".

[34fordy]

You don't really have any good "options"! There are thread files available with the correct pitch, however-----
The amount of torque needed to set the hub on your axle requires perfect threads on your axle. As Kube and others said, replace axle--Once and done.

[deuce_roadster]

What Kube said x3.
All the other things mentioned will most likely not allow the proper torque on the nut to prevent the axle from breaking due to the drum working back and forth on the key. The key has NOTHING TO DO with driving hub of the car, it is the taper on the axle against the taper in the drum which requires the torque on the nut to be VERY tight. I am talking over 150 ft/lbs. The best way to achieve this is to tighten the nut up to say 75 lbs with a torque wrench that is good to over 200 lbs, drive around the block, keep tightening it and adding more torque to the point where after you drive around the block, it no longer is loose (you are working the drum onto the taper}. Then and only then take the torque up to around 195 ft lbs. DO NOT try to take the nut up to max torque all at once even on a NOS axle. The tapers on the axle and drum need to be clean and dry.
Improperly torqued axle nuts are the cause of the ends of the axle breaking off and the wheel and drum exiting the vehicle. This is a safety issue you cannot ignore. People new (and not so new) to the Old Ford banjo rear ends may not understand this. I personally have seen 2 cars on different tour lose a rear wheel and tire, damaging the cars and nearly causing an accident with oncoming traffic. Just be smart and safe.
ALL used axles need to be magnafluxed and checked for cracks before use, new ones are getting pretty scarce.

[Tim Brown]

southside obsolete in Minn should have a new axle if you go that route.

[Charlie Stephens]

If you take the easy way and not replace the axle be sure to install safety hubs or clips to make sure when it fails you don't loose the wheel.

Charlie Stephens

[34fordy]

Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens

If you take the easy way and not replace the axle be sure to install safety hubs or clips to make sure when it fails you don't loose the wheel.

Charlie Stephens

Notice that Charlie said WHEN IT FAILS not IF

[Kube]

Conrad, I know I had sold all of my NOS axles. However, I most likely have super nice, albeit, used, axles.

[Clem Clement]

Nice to finally see that sizing tool. A bud had one years ago, but it got away from him,
Clem

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

What Kube said x3.
… tighten the nut up to say 75 lbs with a torque wrench that is good to over 200 lbs, drive around the block, keep tightening it and adding more torque to the point where after you drive around the block, it no longer is loose (you are working the drum onto the taper}. Then and only then take the torque up to around 195 ft lbs. DO NOT try to take the nut up to max torque all at once even on a NOS axle. The tapers on the axle and drum need to be clean and dry...

I respectfully disagree. Drums should be lapped to the tapers, then thoroughly cleaned, new keys installed and torqued to the full 200ft lbs. NOW is the time to take a short run around the block, to include a left turn and a right turn, and recheck the torque. Any joy ride taken without lapping or before full torque can compromise the integrity of the axle.

[richard crow]

most modern day mech, just replace parts years ago we repaird things if the thread passes the nut & coter pin hole lines up & its torqued its not going to come off. & if you put a little red lock tght on it you will need king kong to remove it

[Kube]

Originally Posted by richard crow

most modern day mech, just replace parts years ago we repaird things if the thread passes the nut & coter pin hole lines up & its torqued its not going to come off. & if you put a little red lock tght on it you will need king kong to remove it

Good mechanics insist on doing the job correctly.

[ford38v8]

Richard, you are correct, the drum won’t come off, …until the axle breaks. Burrs often happen on axles that must be removed before installation. If they remain, they will give a false torque value, self abrade, and leave the key to provide the driving force. At that point, the axle will break at the inside edge if the keyway.

[richard crow]

that thread is damaged because some one used p.o.s puller.now if you want to talk why the axles brake . thats a different story

[Conrad Rossi]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

Conrad, you have an unfortunate situation in which you must not drive the car until repaired, else risk an even more expensive repair. The nut must come off, and the axle replaced. Odds are, even now, you will need to sleeve the housing and replace the bearings. As you are apparently new to the Early Ford hobby, I'd advise you to join the Early Ford V8 Club of America, Phoenix Regional Group # 37, network with the members, and seek help there. Get hold of Brian Parks: [email protected] PH: 602-568-5896

Thanks, Ford38v8. Great idea! I join the V8 Club and the local chapter. Looking forward to meeting people locally with the same interest. I checked sometime ago the Barn roster and I didn’t find many members nearby in the Phoenix area.