1932-34 Pick up questions.

[SUHRsc]

I am working on a pickup and the wind lace trim is missing. I was wondering if this is available, reproduction. I can make something if needed but seems like it may be available? I haven't been able to locate anything other then very expensive originals.

Next, are there any drawings available that show the original thickness of the wooden cab mounting blocks and bed wood? Or full drawings possibly. I can make these parts myself and I have some of the original cab blocks but I'm thinking they've shrunk some and will affect hood alignment with the grill height.

My cab is a 1933 on the 32 truck. I have replaced the firewall with a new cowl support band and I have the correct gas tank, dash and gauge tunnel. Are there any other major things that I am missing that would make this stand out as being the wrong cab? I realize it will be the later 32 with the difference in the roof at the front.

Finally, I was wondering what the total production was of the regular pick-up trucks in 1932.

Thank you
Zach

[Karl Wescott]

The reproduction (aluminum) model a sedan roof drip rails use a two piece design, where a retainer is attached to the body and the drip rail snaps on to it. They are sold as straight lengths that have to be formed. The cross section of the retainer is almost exactly the same as the cross section of the 1932-47? windlace/upholstery retainers so could conceivably be used as a base for your pickup.


I would also contact "OLD GOLD" here on the forum, he seems to be actively making steel formings for pickups. (Mostly 1935-37 but the cross section of the strip is the same).

[alchemy]

I think there’s a difference in the seat mount bracing. I seem to remember my brother showing me something about that. But his is an RPU, so maybe it’s not on a closed cab.

[little howard]

As someone who has driven a 32 pick-up many thousands of miles. I would suggest you look into mounting the body and bed on something besides the wooden blocks. Something along the lines of the rubber biscuits that 49-54, and later, Chevy pick-ups used.

[SUHRsc]

Thank you very much everyone!

I'll look into that Karl, thank you!

Alchemy, the seat is the gas tank in 32 and the later ones had a riser. I have the correct 32 tank to swap in.

Howard, thanks! I was hoping the spring seat would absorb a lot... But I'll surely keep in mind possibly using some things else.

[Krylon32]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I'm the current caretaker of Little Howard's deuce pickup. It's my 5th deuce pickup and the only one I didn't build. When I did the first one I was so dumb I didn't know about the wood blocks so I built steel support stands which worked fine, the next 3 all used the wood cab mount kit from Brad's Wood Shop in Washington. Howard's suggestion about rubber mounts sounds good but would need to be a very hard compound and very precise to maintain sheet metal alignment. I've put close to 10k On Howard this year over the very rough roads in this area and it's beginning to take it's toll in the form of increased squeaks and rattles. I'll do some R&R over the winter to correct this. It's my primary driver until the salt trucks get going. I think it's interesting that United Pacific expended all the time and money to make the repro 32 cab parts but quit before making the wind lace retainer strips. Howard put the gas tank in the back under the bed, cut the top off the cab gas tank and has the Odyssey battery laying on it's side under the seat. Works good. One more thing, my first 2 32 trucks used converted 33 cabs. I kept the 33 firewalls for the extra room.

[Model51]

My opinion is that you stick with the wood mounting blocks. These wood blocks have 5/32" thick rubber pad on the wood that the cab mounts on.

I found that when re-assembling my 1935 truck cab on the frame, the height was critical for alignment of the sheet metal and I got it right with the correct height wood blocks and rubber pads.

Attached is what I put in my book on this topic with more dimension and mounting info. I assume the 1932 PU cab would have the same arrangement, but it's only my assumption.

[jetmek]

The windlace was black seat material glued around a rubber tube and held on with metal strips screwed to door frame. I mite have all the cab wood and blocks here new if your interested. Iir the rear cab bolts had springs like the gas tank and radiator mounts.

[Model51]

Here's a description of the windlace applicable to 1935-1936 pickups and trucks. It's not exactly the same for the 1932 to 1934 pickups and trucks, but should give you the general idea.

[sidevalve8ba]

I too would be interested in windlace for a '32 if indeed it is available somewhere. Or I guess I should ask if there still is a source for windlace at all, anymore?

[DavidG]

A well-equipped auto upholstery shop is usually able to make windlace from suitable upholstery material. The rubber core is made in various sizes and the fabric is most often sewn rather than glued.


The '32-'34 closed cab windace is retained with pan head sheet metal screws in concert with stamped steel retaining strips except at the cowl trim panels where it is held in place by the same oval head sheet metal screws and finishing washers that retain the trim panels.


The '32-'34 closed cab windlace is made of the same material as the seat upholstery fabric (pyroxylinn cloth, a forerunner of vinyl) and very, very dark brown, not black, in color. The same material was used for the upholstery for 1932-'34 standard phaetons and roadsters.

[alchemy]

If you want it to actually seal, don’t use a rubber tube core like Henry did. Use windlace core from an upholstery supply place. Much more pliable and will keep out some of the wind.

[SUHRsc]

Thank you very much everyone for all of the input. I dug in and removed the roof tonight to start the 6" chop! Just kidding ... I figured with mostly bolts and screws holding it on that this would be the smartest way to clean between the layers. I drilled the 2 rivets on each B pillar and lifted the roof off. The seams are very wavy too so this will be good to get them fixed up. I guess the flexing of the cab just pulls on those little bolts and gets things out of wack.

I do have another question. Would a cab with the roof rib and screw in the A pillar, ever have been paired with an early firewall? I have a very early firewall with a lot of the original insulation pad on it that I'd like to use but I keep debating if it seems odd with the "later" cab. I do have a late firewall also but it is bare.
I am not planning to actually restore this truck, just trying to make an honest driver out of it and the old original material on the firewall just seems like it will add some charm and maybe a bit of "old car smell" to the inside.

Thanks!
Zach

[Newc]

That original firewall pad is very fragile. The windlace retaining strips could be made new with some lathe created rolling dies. No one has done that yet, but a good multi-year product. Idea ?? Newc

[SUHRsc]

I was thinking about making dies to make some in my Lennox (pullmax type) machine if needed. I have had a few people mention they may have some laying around though, so we'll see what turns up. Thanks!

[Krylon32]

The strips are pretty basic, mostly straight. Minor challenge will be the curve at the front.