Any electronic experts out there

[PalAl]

Originally Posted by Big hammer

Very interesting light set up, would like to see pictures of them working engine off. I'am wonder if a separate power source not being charged by the A if that would work ? At least try ?

Hey Big Hammer I attached a link to the lights that has a video of them working, they can also be had from Amazon.

SOCAL-LED 2x Arrow LED DRL Switchback Strips 10" (25cm) 12V Sequential Flashing Turn Signal Lights, Dual-Color Amber White
by SOCAL-LED LIGHTING


The attached picture is how I mounted them on my car.

[PalAl]

Thanks to everyone who has tossed out ideas, I will be trying everything one by one and will let you all know what solves the problem.
Here is a link to Amazon that shows the lights

https://www.amazon.com/SOCAL-LED-Swi.../dp/B07KKNKX6J

and also this one that has a video of the light working, you may have to copy and paste this into your browser

SOCAL-LED 2x Arrow LED DRL Switchback Strips 10" (25cm) 12V Sequential Flashing Turn Signal Lights, Dual-Color Amber White
by SOCAL-LED LIGHTING

And this is the light mounted on my car

[Big hammer]

Nice lights for 12 volt A's �� I have 6volts☹️ Looking at their site SoCal, they have flicker Eliminator's for HID headlights, just maybe SoCal led might help you?

[PalAl]

Thought I would keep ya all updated on my progress.
Tried putting power feed and ground right to battery, thought it might act as a sort of cushion. NO CHANGE

Changed to a modern Dist. cap and wires including the coil wire. NO CHANGE

Changed out all the wires with RF Suppression wires. NO Change

Covered the control box with foil. NO CHANGE

Going to try some resistor spark plugs...................

Looking into wire shielding................

Going to get an old AM radio near the enging and see I I still have RF noise
I'm running out of ideas
Please keep yours coming

Signals and DRL still work great until the enging starts running?????

[Bill G]

Dang, PalAl, you are going to be into this a bloody fortune by the time you are done reinventing the electrical system. Maybe the turn signal/running lights just aren't engineered with the noisy Model A.

For all the electrical and RF noise in a Model A, you can't beat incandescent lights - or LED's that are properly designed.

[CarlG]

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Not really sure why, but I have all LED lights, Tail, Stop/Turn on the rear; Cowl/Turn on the front with switchback bulbs, all driven with a SignalStat 900 switch & an electronic 3-prong flasher, and everything works perfectly whether the engine is running or not. 12v 1 wire alternator, stock distributor with modern wires.

I also have LED headlights by JDMastar, no problem there either.

Go figure!

[PalAl]

Originally Posted by Bill G

Dang, PalAl, you are going to be into this a bloody fortune by the time you are done reinventing the electrical system. Maybe the turn signal/running lights just aren't engineered with the noisy Model A.

For all the electrical and RF noise in a Model A, you can't beat incandescent lights - or LED's that are properly designed.

Ya Bill your right but I have to figure this out, I'm not one to retreat...lol
This will most likely be an easy fix in the end. I hope

[PalAl]

Carl I have all LED rear (two taillights) with load resistors and a third brake light, LED front turn lights and they worked fine on 6v Pos. ground with an alt. I am now 12v neg. ground with an alt. and the rear still works fine. I sure do have a gremlin hiding in the new front DRL/turn lights. Going to try an isolated 12v power source for grins today and an electronic flasher. May just have to shield the wires for this unit????
I shall overcome.................I think

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Try disconnecting the alternator. Perhaps it has a problem. Just trying to think outside of the box - had a car that the lights would flicker and it was the alternator. Probably does not make complete sense, but this would remove one variable.

[PalAl]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

Try disconnecting the alternator. Perhaps it has a problem. Just trying to think outside of the box - had a car that the lights would flicker and it was the alternator. Probably does not make complete sense, but this would remove one variable.

Can you disconnect the alternator and run the engine without causing the alternator to have a voltage spike and damage it?

Or did you mean to remove the fan belt to disconnect the alternator?

[Badpuppy]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

Try disconnecting the alternator. Perhaps it has a problem. Just trying to think outside of the box - had a car that the lights would flicker and it was the alternator. Probably does not make complete sense, but this would remove one variable.

Don't disconnect for very long, will overheat.

[Badpuppy]

Originally Posted by PalAl

Can you disconnect the alternator and run the engine without causing the alternator to have a voltage spike and damage it?

Or did you mean to remove the fan belt to disconnect the alternator?

Yeah, let the engine overheat. Easier to fix.

[katy]

had a car that the lights would flicker and it was the alternator.

Had the same problem and it turned out to be a loose wire inside the alternator.

[PalAl]

Ok........ all my other rear tail, turn and brake LED lights are working fine, the front DRL/sequential turn led lights work with the engine not running but go nuts with the enging running, DRL flash, turn signals go on both left and right or just one side etc.

Just tried connecting the power and ground for these LED lights to an external 12 volt battery, DRL worked fine turned on the car battery to use the turn signals... they worked fine.
Started the engine they all go crazy flashing and blinking............
Back to the drawing board

[Badpuppy]

So RFI appears to be the problem. Best to attack the cause with resistor wires/ferrite beads if possible, otherwise replace the signal wires with shielded wire. Ground all the shields at one end Grounding both ends can cause shield currents which can also cause interference.

Before going to all that work, try replacing the distributor capacitor, or find someone who can test yours. Another thought, a similar capacitor across each LED assembly may help.

[Big hammer]

Originally Posted by PalAl

Ok........ all my other rear tail, turn and brake LED lights are working fine, the front DRL/sequential turn led lights work with the engine not running but go nuts with the enging running, DRL flash, turn signals go on both left and right or just one side etc.

Just tried connecting the power and ground for these LED lights to an external 12 volt battery, DRL worked fine turned on the car battery to use the turn signals... they worked fine.
Started the engine they all go crazy flashing and blinking............
Back to the drawing board

Give SoCal LEDs a call, I'll bet they have gone through this problem before!

[Badpuppy]

Yet another option - run ground return wires in parallel with each signal wire. Do not connect LED end to chassis. RFI in both wires should cancel each other.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by PalAl

Can you disconnect the alternator and run the engine without causing the alternator to have a voltage spike and damage it?

Or did you mean to remove the fan belt to disconnect the alternator?

Good point, I would do both belt and wiring. I am assuming it has the issue all the time, but as Badpuppy notes would not let it run for more than a few minutes in case it wants to overheat.

[PalAl]

All seems so simple
RED wire to ACC. or in my case a switch This is for DRL
White wire is fused to power Puts power to control box
Black wire GROUND
Yellow (TWO) to turn signal feed left and right
All these wire go into the control box, left and right turn signal come out of the other end of the box and go to LED Strip.
SIMPLE

Would seem to me I would want to shield each wire going to the control box and not the plug in wires to the led strips from the opposite side of the box . Seems like the RIF is creating false signals going into the box......... right
UGG my brain is starting to smoke
Going to try all suggestions, some parts on order

One of my Model A "buddies?" told me it's a Model A Keep It Simple Stupid
I will argue that when I solve this...lol

[Kevin in NJ]

In reading instructions for installing 1930's car radios in cars they recommend a much tighter gap between the rotor and the dist cap to reduce interference.