Engine test stand

[flathead47]

I am interested in building an engine test stand to start and run my flatheads on. Does any one have some plans , pictures of ones they have built or used ....... Thanks

[36tbird]

I want to do this also. Got a cross member from a '46 Ford that a guy pulled out to put in a Mustang II front end. I think I will first build a rectangular frame on some wheels that this cross member will sit on and then fabricate a radiator mount ahead of that. I think that the rear engine support will be just a cross brace that bolts to the bell housing. Build a little support in the rear to mount an instrument panel to and that will be it.

[V8 Bob]

Here's my test stand I built many years ago. Basically two 5' 1X3x1/8" channel pieces for the frame, and about 20' of 1 1/2X1/8" angle iron. You can make it as fancy or simple as you want. The radiator is for a large fork lift I bought from a local shop very reasonable, and has several hose nipples for flatheads and FE/385 Ford big blocks. The 110V house fan eliminates the need for a belt-driven fan. The Moon tank is overkil, but had to have one.

[36tbird]

Now, that's what I'm talkin' about! Nice work!

I see that you are running an electric fuel pump, but you could probably get by with that, right?

[JM 35 Sedan]

Bob, that's a real nice setup!! Makes me want to build one.
When I visited Vern Tardel in Santa Rosa, CA last year, I noticed that he had a nice test stand in his garage. He had a FH engine running on it while I was there. If I can find my pictures, I will post them later.

Vern Tardel and his flathead engine test stand

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

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Heres one of two we use at the shop. This one is a thrown away ( saved) 235 six cylinder that we use to test carbs ( 2 barrells and singles). I use the sync flow tool to balance carbs and match flow up for multiple set ups. ( saves tuning on the car). Note the front and rear are mounted with a tube inside a square piece to allow adjustment for what ever you wish. Tools stay with the cart ( paint id)..Have different adapters for carbs......
My other stand like this one is a V* unit ( right now has a running 283 Chevy ( taboo on Ford Barn).......

[jerry grayson]

The easy way to do this is with the front half of a junk frame and any efv8 truck or car frame works up to 1948.

[oldford2]

Here is a simple one that works for me.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

I love the gas tank on the last one!!!!

[Mike in AZ]

wow, great stand.....very nice....Mike

[Ol' Ron]

I think all these engine stands are beautiful, there is only one thing wrong with them.
They destroy rings, especially new ones. Now if you could put a load on the engine, that's another story. But these make it too easy for you to start up your engine everytine s0me of the guys come over to visit, and every time you run it your ga lazing up the rings. Thr only way to fix this it to re hone the cylinders and replace the rings. Now if you want to run your engine stand, first install the engine in your car. Put 4-500 miles on it, and then put it into your engine stand.

[alanwoodieman]

Ole Ron is correct in that if left on the stand too long it will not be good on the rings, then again Vern Tardal says he runs his in on a test stand to check for leaks and to retorque the heads after a heat cycle, seem like both are somewhat correct--as an Engineman in the Navy, I used to get in trouble because I would not crank up the diesels and run them for hours waiting for departure, that just carboned up the 71 series GM engines, would warm them up, check out and shut down-used to drive the Captain crazy!!

[36tbird]

Can't you just throw a little sand down the carb to knock off the glaze?

[oldford2]

I can understand where Ron is coming from...... but.....Most of us have not spent years building 100's of engines like Ron. I am never sure that maybe I did something wrong in the rebuild and like to start it on the stand to listen to it run. I understand the process of "breaking in/seating" the rings. I don't believe an hour or two on the stand does much "damage". Maybe I am wrong. Then I can re-torque the heads and pull the intake to double check the valve settings and easily check for leaks. John
P S The EFV8 club had a new engine raffle last year. They had it on a trailer and displayed it at many shows. starting it up all the time and selling raffle tickets. That engine must have had a hundred hours on it. Never heard a report how it ran in a car.

[Ol' Ron]

Yes, start it up, checks for leaks and oil pressure. Maybe let it run at 150-2000 RPM to warm up. THEN, put it in the car and drive it. When you buy a new car the engine hasn't been run other than on or off the trailer. Now you drive it home.
I personalty don't care what you do, but we argue about the cost of building these engines si I guess as Joey says This is a MOO point" a cows opinion

[flathead47]

The pictures of the test stands , information about them is good & is what I am looking for........ any more out there? I am getting some good ideas as everyone has built them a little different.
Ol' Ron ,
how long of run time before you start creating problems with the rings ?
My thoughts for the stand was to use it to break the cam in , have a small amount of run time on the engine , do some final checks to ensure everything looks good before taking the time to install it in the car & then find out you have problems. I could have it drive a load , how much of a load on the engine would you recommend ........ Thanks

[Ol' Ron]

I have no idea. Breaking in the cam?? This I don't understand. If the engine is running with out making some scary noises, ol pressure or any other BAD things, put it in the car. If it has to come out for some reason, just take it out. WE;ve taken Georges Ardun out so many times, we've got the time down to a few hrsand it only has a 1/2 clearance all around. Fun stuff.

[Bruce in southern OH]

Friends new 4 banger on engine test stand, Bruce



Flathead stand V 60

[Pete Fl/Wi]

Here is my test stand. I only run engines long enough to set timing check leaks, temp and oil pressure. I re-torque and run up to temp. a second time. Total time 30 minutes. No problems with 4 engines built so far.
Pete

[Cecil/WV]

Here's my test stand. I just removed a defective engine.

[Ole Don]

Those stands look very nice, but rather expensive. If you can find a grocery shoping cart that still has good wheels, you have a great engine stand. The two I built had the baskets tossed, and both had some solid metal on the rear to work with. I lenghtened them about a foot, and built up the back some 1/4 X 2 plate would bolt to the bell housing. Many holes later it has run a flathead, a chev, a nailhead, and a Y block. It works good, its cheap, and it rolls around easy.

[coilover]

Know what you mean, had to remove engine #5 from it's test stand to remedy a bad habit of connecting rod sawing block in two. Use ship anchor chain to test under load and keep rings from glazing (ha ha). Do use anchor to test/tune and inside the building that thing is LOUD.

[Don]

When I get mine built,it will be used to mostly check out engines that have been taken out of cars and put away for awhile,do a good tine up ,ck compression oil pressir.etc.,even ck the transmission .

[Shadetree]

Some time ago I traded for a 59AB with 14,000 miles on a factory overhaul. The heads and intake have been removed but I have them. I want to buy or build an engine stand. Not being that good with a welder I thought of building one out of wood. I have a spare radiator that could handle the cooling.

[Ol' Ron]

Yes, my present enginrstand is made from wood. I used it to fire uo both the 294 and the 280 and will use it to run the 248, my next engine. I fire them up check for oil pressure get a little heat in them and if they don't sound like something is bouncing aroun inside they go into the car.. My first engine stand was a 300HP GE Dyno, I''d put a 25-50 hp load on it and vary the rpm from 2500 to 2500 untill it got very hot. Then let it cool down, retorque the heads and then start testing it for power output.

[cederholm]

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Don't you love it when guys re-open these golden-oldie posts?!? - You're welcome!

We'll there is where I'm at. I'm assembling a 1953 8BA that will go into a model A coupe. GOFAST (Gary) did the machine work and provided all the parts (Great guy to deal with, I'm lucky to have him close by)

This is my first flathead build so I'm taking it slow. This is also my first AV8 build and I don't want a bunch of projects all up in the air at the same time, so I would like to test the motor and break in the cam before I drop it into the car. I plan to make a stand that I can use to run the motor on, but also store in until the chassis is ready.

I believe the motor need to run for about 20 minutes at a high idle for the cam to break in and then under load at various speeds to seat the rings. Is this correct?

~Carl

[Talkwrench]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

I think all these engine stands are beautiful, there is only one thing wrong with them.
They destroy rings, especially new ones. Now if you could put a load on the engine, that's another story. But these make it too easy for you to start up your engine everytine s0me of the guys come over to visit, and every time you run it your ga lazing up the rings. Thr only way to fix this it to re hone the cylinders and replace the rings. Now if you want to run your engine stand, first install the engine in your car. Put 4-500 miles on it, and then put it into your engine stand.

Yup I agree. I put my money where my mouth is and backed myself. Built engine , install to car full hooked up, start, run hard, quick check nothing is leaking , jump in and give it some with plenty of load !
Now Im back to driving daily... ; )

[GB SISSON]

On my stand I have a place were a 6' long rough cut 2x4 fits in and I can leverage it against the flywheel. I can pretty much stall a good engine with it. Yes there is some wood smoke. The engine thinks it is climbing a long hill in high, then coasting down, then another in second. When my friends come by and I give them a show, the engine thinks it just did 5 miles of hilly terrain. How would the engine know the difference? If I were to build a good stand on this principle, the stand would include a 4 speed T-9 with a band brake on the tranny, perhaps drip water cooled. Click, click on the lever, engine is under a load. We all win.