The Ford Barn

Ole Don · 01-12-2011, 08:50 AM

Those stands look very nice, but rather expensive. If you can find a grocery shoping cart that still has good wheels, you have a great engine stand. The two I built had the baskets tossed, and both had some solid metal on the rear to work with. I lenghtened them about a foot, and built up the back some 1/4 X 2 plate would bolt to the bell housing. Many holes later it has run a flathead, a chev, a nailhead, and a Y block. It works good, its cheap, and it rolls around easy.

coilover · 01-12-2011, 11:18 PM

Know what you mean, had to remove engine #5 from it's test stand to remedy a bad habit of connecting rod sawing block in two. Use ship anchor chain to test under load and keep rings from glazing (ha ha). Do use anchor to test/tune and inside the building that thing is LOUD.

Don · 11-07-2013, 07:38 PM

When I get mine built,it will be used to mostly check out engines that have been taken out of cars and put away for awhile,do a good tine up ,ck compression oil pressir.etc.,even ck the transmission .

Shadetree · 11-07-2013, 08:18 PM

Some time ago I traded for a 59AB with 14,000 miles on a factory overhaul. The heads and intake have been removed but I have them. I want to buy or build an engine stand. Not being that good with a welder I thought of building one out of wood. I have a spare radiator that could handle the cooling.

Ol' Ron · 11-07-2013, 10:00 PM

Yes, my present enginrstand is made from wood. I used it to fire uo both the 294 and the 280 and will use it to run the 248, my next engine. I fire them up check for oil pressure get a little heat in them and if they don't sound like something is bouncing aroun inside they go into the car.. My first engine stand was a 300HP GE Dyno, I''d put a 25-50 hp load on it and vary the rpm from 2500 to 2500 untill it got very hot. Then let it cool down, retorque the heads and then start testing it for power output.

cederholm · 10-08-2018, 11:06 AM

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Don't you love it when guys re-open these golden-oldie posts?!? - You're welcome!

We'll there is where I'm at. I'm assembling a 1953 8BA that will go into a model A coupe. GOFAST (Gary) did the machine work and provided all the parts (Great guy to deal with, I'm lucky to have him close by)

This is my first flathead build so I'm taking it slow. This is also my first AV8 build and I don't want a bunch of projects all up in the air at the same time, so I would like to test the motor and break in the cam before I drop it into the car. I plan to make a stand that I can use to run the motor on, but also store in until the chassis is ready.

I believe the motor need to run for about 20 minutes at a high idle for the cam to break in and then under load at various speeds to seat the rings. Is this correct?

~Carl

Talkwrench · 10-08-2018, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

I think all these engine stands are beautiful, there is only one thing wrong with them.
They destroy rings, especially new ones. Now if you could put a load on the engine, that's another story. But these make it too easy for you to start up your engine everytine s0me of the guys come over to visit, and every time you run it your ga lazing up the rings. Thr only way to fix this it to re hone the cylinders and replace the rings. Now if you want to run your engine stand, first install the engine in your car. Put 4-500 miles on it, and then put it into your engine stand.

Yup I agree. I put my money where my mouth is and backed myself. Built engine , install to car full hooked up, start, run hard, quick check nothing is leaking , jump in and give it some with plenty of load !
Now Im back to driving daily... ; )

GB SISSON · 10-08-2018, 08:13 PM

On my stand I have a place were a 6' long rough cut 2x4 fits in and I can leverage it against the flywheel. I can pretty much stall a good engine with it. Yes there is some wood smoke. The engine thinks it is climbing a long hill in high, then coasting down, then another in second. When my friends come by and I give them a show, the engine thinks it just did 5 miles of hilly terrain. How would the engine know the difference? If I were to build a good stand on this principle, the stand would include a 4 speed T-9 with a band brake on the tranny, perhaps drip water cooled. Click, click on the lever, engine is under a load. We all win.

01-12-2011, 08:50 AM	#21
Ole Don Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St. Michael, Minnesota Posts: 1,713	Re: Engine test stand Those stands look very nice, but rather expensive. If you can find a grocery shoping cart that still has good wheels, you have a great engine stand. The two I built had the baskets tossed, and both had some solid metal on the rear to work with. I lenghtened them about a foot, and built up the back some 1/4 X 2 plate would bolt to the bell housing. Many holes later it has run a flathead, a chev, a nailhead, and a Y block. It works good, its cheap, and it rolls around easy.

11-07-2013, 07:38 PM	#23
Don Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ashland KY Posts: 1,159	Re: Engine test stand When I get mine built,it will be used to mostly check out engines that have been taken out of cars and put away for awhile,do a good tine up ,ck compression oil pressir.etc.,even ck the transmission . __________________ DON P

11-07-2013, 08:18 PM	#24
Shadetree Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Cottageville, WV Posts: 1,535	Re: Engine test stand Some time ago I traded for a 59AB with 14,000 miles on a factory overhaul. The heads and intake have been removed but I have them. I want to buy or build an engine stand. Not being that good with a welder I thought of building one out of wood. I have a spare radiator that could handle the cooling. __________________ Son, you will never blow an engine up in high gear.

11-07-2013, 10:00 PM	#25
Ol' Ron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chester Vt Posts: 8,857	Re: Engine test stand Yes, my present enginrstand is made from wood. I used it to fire uo both the 294 and the 280 and will use it to run the 248, my next engine. I fire them up check for oil pressure get a little heat in them and if they don't sound like something is bouncing aroun inside they go into the car.. My first engine stand was a 300HP GE Dyno, I''d put a 25-50 hp load on it and vary the rpm from 2500 to 2500 untill it got very hot. Then let it cool down, retorque the heads and then start testing it for power output.

10-08-2018, 11:06 AM	#26
cederholm Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Southport CT Posts: 318	Re: Engine test stand Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Don't you love it when guys re-open these golden-oldie posts?!? - You're welcome! We'll there is where I'm at. I'm assembling a 1953 8BA that will go into a model A coupe. GOFAST (Gary) did the machine work and provided all the parts (Great guy to deal with, I'm lucky to have him close by) This is my first flathead build so I'm taking it slow. This is also my first AV8 build and I don't want a bunch of projects all up in the air at the same time, so I would like to test the motor and break in the cam before I drop it into the car. I plan to make a stand that I can use to run the motor on, but also store in until the chassis is ready. I believe the motor need to run for about 20 minutes at a high idle for the cam to break in and then under load at various speeds to seat the rings. Is this correct? ~Carl

10-08-2018, 08:13 PM	#28
GB SISSON Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Orcas Island Washington Posts: 4,916	Re: Engine test stand On my stand I have a place were a 6' long rough cut 2x4 fits in and I can leverage it against the flywheel. I can pretty much stall a good engine with it. Yes there is some wood smoke. The engine thinks it is climbing a long hill in high, then coasting down, then another in second. When my friends come by and I give them a show, the engine thinks it just did 5 miles of hilly terrain. How would the engine know the difference? If I were to build a good stand on this principle, the stand would include a 4 speed T-9 with a band brake on the tranny, perhaps drip water cooled. Click, click on the lever, engine is under a load. We all win. __________________ Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1947 Tonner Pickup (red) mostly stock with exception of a cummins 6at turbo diesel, 1946 Tonner Pickup (green) with 226 cu in 6 cyl flathead, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, completely encased in 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. Ok, cornbinder rear fenders..... 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson)