'53 Borg Warner O/D help

[meric42]

My '53 Crestline Convertible has a factory O/D and will not engage first gear unless I pull the lockout lever out. Looking for advice on how to solve this problem. I have fitted a new wiring loom and checked the function of the Solenoid and kick-down switch but haven't had a chance to trouble shoot the problem yet as the fuel tank is out at the moment. Any hints would be appreciated, thanks in advance

[40cpe]

ASSUMING (yes, I know) the transmission will not pull in 2nd or 3rd either, it sounds like your sprag clutch (the roller bearing in a cage) is not engaging. This can be from a bent (or stuck) roller cage not letting the rollers ramp up and engage the output shaft. It has been said that synthetic trans oil will cause the same problem, but it's hearsay. I hope there is a more simple fix, because the tailshaft has to come off to repair the bent cage.

[meric42]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

ASSUMING (yes, I know) the transmission will not pull in 2nd or 3rd either, it sounds like your sprag clutch (the roller bearing in a cage) is not engaging. This can be from a bent roller cage not letting the rollers ramp up and engage the output shaft. It has been said that synthetic trans oil will cause the same problem, but it's hearsay. I hope there is a more simple fix, because the tailshaft has to come off to repair the bent cage.

I have only just got the car ready to be driven after importing it to New Zealand from OK and doing a lot of work i.e. rebuilding the brakes, freeing up stuck valves and rewiring the whole car so I haven't driven the car much other than with the lockout cable pulled out and this works fine through all the gears.

From memory it did seem to want to pull in 2nd and 3rd, just not 1st?

I don't think this car has been driven in a very long time (25+ years at least) and I am pretty sure that it does not have synthetic lube in it as the previous owner wouldn't have used that in any form.

Should I need to repair the cage, is this an easy task and do you know if the parts readily available?

[40cpe]

Maybe the cage/rollers are just stuck after sitting on old grease for so long. Some creative use of a solvent like diesel fuel in the OD section might free them up. Be advised that the the OD section is open to the main trans so gear oil is common to the two sections.

I feel like the "official" advice would be to pull it and go through it.

I wouldn't call it an easy job to tear it down. A manual is a must if you aren't familiar with them. I'm sure you could find a cage if you get so far as to need one.

[Als48]

I had a thought about the reverse lock-out pin, which prevents the use of reverse while overdrive is engaged, or something to that effect.

Al Hook

[rotorwrench]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I'm wanting to make sure I understand this since there seems to be confusion. The way I read post one is that you can't get it to shift into 1st gear unless the transmission is in the direct drive mode or "Locked Out". The term "engage 1st gear" seems to indicate this or that it won't go forward when you engage the clutch.

The overdrive transmissions have a special shift fork cam & shaft assembly that will push against the shift rail end that protrudes into the gear case from the tail housing. It locks the transmission out when you shift into reverse gear. This way a person doesn't have to pull the cable into direct drive just to reverse the car. There may also be something going on with the shifter/detent assembly or shift fork for the 1st & reverse gear. The 1st/reverse gear takes a beating since it's non synchronized.

The sprag clutch or free wheeling unit could be at fault if you shift fully into 1st gear and it doesn't turn the output shaft when the cable control is in the overdrive position. It has rollers that are pushed against the outer race by cam ramp action when the car is to be propelled forward. I've never seen them stick enough not to let it work but I would wonder if something is broken or missing in there. There can be a condition where it won't drive in reverse if the shift rail is not moving correctly in the housing and shifting the sun gear as it should.The shift rail is spring loaded and should move forward anytime there is no shift pressure applied to it by the reverse shifter cam action or the lock out cable control action.

[meric42]

[QUOTE=rotorwrench; 1898399]I'm wanting to make sure I understand this since there seems to be confusion. The way I read post one is that you can't get it to shift into 1st gear unless the transmission is in the direct drive mode or "Locked Out". The term "engage 1st gear" seems to indicate this or that it won't go forward when you engage the clutch....

Thanks rotorwrench for your reply. I probably should have described the fault symptom better.

With the 'lockout' cable pulled out i.e. O/D disengaged, the transmission works as expected through all the gears, including reverse. But with the cable in the in position for O/D operation, I can shift the transmission in to first gear but cannot achieve forward motion in first gear i.e. no rotation of the output shaft.

Hopefully this is now a little clearer?

[Frank Miller]

As others said it is probably the one way clutch. I'm not sure if more revs in 2nd or 3rd will help. I'm assuming reverse works ok. Either way you will need to disassemble the transmission. One last thing is make sure the cable is moving the lever all the way back as in the cable may be slipping or not adjusted properly.

[rotorwrench]

Something isn't right in there for sure. Some folks remove parts in order to keep the transmission from functioning in overdrive due to problems it may have. It may not even have a sprag clutch in there anymore. The transmission will work in direct drive so at least you know it has the shafts in it. I'd take the transmission out and disassemble it to find out what's going on in there.

Mac VanPelt has a lot of new and used parts for these and there are still units & used parts out there for sale by others. I've found a lot of NOS parts on flea-pay too. Getting stuff down to NZ would be the difficult part.

[flatheadmurre]

If it´s been sitting for a real long time the rollers may be stuck and driving it with new oil may free them up....Drive it in direct to slush oil around for a while and at slow cruise push lever in...if it doesn´t work stop and start over in direct.
What you don´t want to do is reving it up hoping it will engage...you will break it that way when it suddenly partly engages...

[meric42]

Thanks to everybody for the replies, once i get the fuel tank flushed, sealed and reinstalled i will try some of the suggestions given above... Watch this space

[meric42]

Update - After getting the Fuel tank cleaned and the system flushed I have managed to put some miles on the clock. Unfortunately the OD still does not function i.e. the only way I can drive the car is with the cable in the lock-out position. I tried pushing the cable in when driving then lifting off on the gas, this resulted in the car free wheeling. So I had to then stop the car and restart my journey with the cable pulled out again. Looks like the transmission has to come out, but this will not happen any time soon as I have lots more to do with other projects, and at least I can drive it the way it is.

[1oldtimer]

Keep messing around with it. It sounds like either the roller bearings are stuck or missing or something broke inside.