T5 trany in 55 wagon

[LD-Ordie]

So my 3 speed died on my 55 sedan delivery with a 292 and I'm upgrading it to a T5. Quick question on shifter location. My initial rough measuring shows the shifter just in front of the seat, but still gathering parts and I'm a ways from having the bell housing and adapter plate to get a closer mark. For those who have done the swap, did you use a shifter to move the stick forward or to the left? Planing on using a Hurst stick, but also undecided on which one would work the best with a bench seat. Any suggestions would be appreciated

[51504bat]

I'd contact Hotrodprimer. Don't know if he's on the Barn but he is on the HAMB. He has a T5 in his '54 Ranch Wagon which I assume is similar to your '55. Another good source would be Jeffb2 here on the Barn.

[LD-Ordie]

Thank you much, but I'm thinking it should be the same as a regular sedan. Engine and trany sit in the same location, am I missing something?

[flathead 53]

I just finished doing A t-5 in my 53 f-100, you can email me for info or pictures .

[LD-Ordie]

Originally Posted by flathead 53

I just finished doing A t-5 in my 53 f-100, you can email me for info or pictures .

Thank you much! I sent you an e-mail

[V8COOPMAN]

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Originally Posted by LD-Ordie

Undecided on which one would work the best with a bench seat. Any suggestions would be appreciated

I just lost over an hour's worth of T5 stuff for you....but that's MY PROBLEM! Anyway, you can use the TAIL SHAFT housing off of a Chevy S-10, along with it's corresponding short SHIFT RAIL & Cover. It'll bolt right on to ANY T5 that has a decent, close-ratio gear set like a V8 Camaro with the 2.95 1st gear, or a V8 Mustang with the 3.35 1st gear. You DO NOT want to use the entire S-10 transmission, 'cuz it has crap 3.50 or 4.03 1st gear ratios. Comparison picture below.....moves the shifter nearly 9" forward. I can help you sift your way through this to do it RIGHT! DD





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[LD-Ordie]

Thanks V8Coopman, that's a good option to have if needed. Currently waiting on parts to get the bell housing and adapter in place, going to take some good measurements and go from there. Rough measurements while still assembled with the stock stuff are showing me the shifter is falling just in front of my bench seat, but if an inch or so is needed , MDL has some good shifter options. If much more is needed, your info is appreciated!! Thanks!!

[geardaddy]

give me a call about your t5. sadly i have built stupid amount of custom oddballs with all kinds of shifter locations using tails from chev, isuzu,melroe, nissan,sang sung, amc, and some "bejing warner gear" freaks... will be up VERY late...612-309-3999

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by LD-Ordie

Thanks V8Coopman, that's a good option to have if needed. Currently waiting on parts to get the bell housing and adapter in place, going to take some good measurements and go from there. Rough measurements while still assembled with the stock stuff are showing me the shifter is falling just in front of my bench seat, but if an inch or so is needed , MDL has some good shifter options. If much more is needed, your info is appreciated!! Thanks!!

LD .....With respect, I believe you just MIGHT be getting a bit ahead of yourself. You still haven't mentioned WHICH T5 you're planning on using, or that you are taking measurements from to get the CORRECTLY-dimensioned adapters. Do you realize that depending on WHICH T5 you decide to use that there are at least SEVEN different lengths for T5 input shafts? You'll also need to know the dimensions on the INPUT SHAFT Bearing Retainer for a correctly-fitted adapter. You REALLY sound like you need to do some serious reading (or consult with someone more knowledgeable in the world of T5s for a more thorough understanding of what the BASIC T5 design offers (a hell of a lot) in diversity of application, as well as how much the basic design lends itself to mixing 'n matching of parts for custom applications.....like SHIFTER PLACEMENT for one, in addition to the choosing of optimum close-ratio gear selection for the street. I've seen too many guys that buy the first T5 that comes-along, install it....and have that particular T5 end up making their ride a miserable experience. Just a suggestion! Would really enjoy hearing how your project is progressing! DD


A Little Bit of Interesting T5 Info





Some Additional Background & History


https://www.moderndriveline.com/the-...ces-of-the-t5/




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[LD-Ordie]

Thank you much Coop! Your advice is greatly appreciated. First to admit, this is my first dealings with a T5 instal, although I did instal a TKO-600 in my 55 3100 a few years back. My delivery came with a 11" flywheel, clutch and pressure plate and the trany. I did research it as a Mustang V8 with the 7 1/8" input shaft. I bought the adapter from MDL who confirmed it was the correct one. Probably should have mentioned it before, but thought I was past that. Waiting on a new starter ring gear, yoke and U-joints. Hoping next week it can go together, bring the driveshaft to my local machinist and focus on the shifter and cross member. Will share my progress

[flathead 53]

V8 coopman, pointed me in the right direction on my t-5 install , he is a wealth of knowledge on this subject, my swap is complete but needs some tweaking based on his advice.

[rotorwrench]

T5 transmissions are being fitted to about everything but you need to ask the folks that are working with the Ford car Y-blocks to get your best information unless you are converting to a different engine. Flatheads and pickups are different so best info will come from the y-block community with the early Y-block type cars.

Coopman's info is very important for those T5 finds where you don't know what they came out of. Thankfully, there is an aftermarket for quite a bit of T5 stuff now days when a person is limited on local sources.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by LD-Ordie

I did install a TKO-600 in my 55 3100 a few years back.

I did research it as a Mustang V8 with the 7 1/8" input shaft. Will share my progress

I have a TKO 600 "Road Race" version with the .82 overdrive ratio in my '40 Ford coupe. My little Chevy with a healthy cam really likes that .82, along with the 3.50 in the '57 Ford 9".

Well, the fact that you have a V8 Mustang T5 is very encouraging. You wouldn't have the factory ID tag that identifies exactly what that trans started life as, would you? I'm thinking that it likely will have the 3.35 1st gear .....the close-ratio gear set, and if so, ya done GOOD! You should be very pleased with it's performance. Do you know what your REAR end ratio is? BE SURE to use the correct lubricant!!! DD

[LD-Ordie]

So I was told it was the V8 version, but unfortunately, the tag is missing, so no real idea. The previous owner of my 55 was fairly knowledgeable , so hoping the right decision was made. Not sure on the rear end, but counting driveline revolutions, it's around 3.90 Future project is a 9", so a better ratio could be chosen. For now, going to run what I have and evaluate the performance and go from there. Thanks again!!

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by LD-Ordie

So I was told it was the V8 version, but unfortunately, the tag is missing, so no real idea.

LD-Ordie .....Since you're not sure what gear set you have in your T5, there is a very easy way to find out what ya got. Follow the instructions in the link below, and in 15 minutes or less, you will have found the 1st GEAR and the 5th GEAR (O/D) ratios. With those two ratios, we simply go to a gear chart (which I have) and find out the rest. Let us know what you find out. DD


https://lugnutz65chevystepside.weebl...5-gearing.html

Once you get to this site, ALSO make sure to put your cursor on the "T5 INFO PAGE" in the black band at top of page for a 'drop-down' list with quite a few T5 articles of interest.




Then, look at the pictures below of the two transmissions. Pay close attention to the 'SILVER DOLLAR'-sized round things below and to the left of the main input shaft. That is the cluster gear front bearing cup. The one on top makes the transmission a NON-WORLD CLASS (NWC) T5. The one on the bottom makes the trans a WORLD CLASS (WC) T5. Which do you have? DD





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[LD-Ordie]

Great stuff here!! Thanks so much! Was thinking I should be able to count the spins, but this explains it in detail. I don't have any kind of shifter yet, except the takeoff from my TKO-600. Maybe I can make it work for this test....... Will try. I did read all I could on the MDL site and learned I have the WC version. Fluid requirements is pretty important ! I would not have thought Dextron III

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by LD-Ordie

I don't have any kind of shifter yet, except the takeoff from my TKO-600. Maybe I can make it work for this test. I did read all I could on the MDL site and learned I have the WC version. Fluid requirements is pretty important ! I would not have thought Dextron III

The reason for the DEXRON III is because of the material on the blocker rings (synchronizer rings). The fluid must be compatible or you'll ruin the blockers. Hopefully, someone has not used regular old SAE 90 weight or something similar...which would ruin your blocker rings.

OK, you mention that you need a way to shift your transmission. Watch the video in the link BELOW. This is a video that shows the entire, yet simple process for changing-out the REAR shifter housing for the "S-10" housing that I had mentioned previously to move your shifter forward. This video uses a Camaro T5, but the S-10 housing also fits the MUSTANG T5. If you run the video forward to the 29:20 position, you will see the steel block with hole in it to receive the bottom ball of the shifter. Note the position (rotation) of the block, as well as the length (fore and aft) of the shift rod as it goes FORWARD into the lid. The position it is in as shown is NEUTRAL. So once the trans is in NEUTRAL, you can reach in and rotate that metal block toward the RIGHT (Passenger) side of trans.

**(If it won't rotate to the right, the trans is NOT in NEUTRAL)**

Once you move that metal block to the RIGHT, then move the metal SHIFTER BLOCK/rod assembly to the REAR. The movement should feel "notchy", just like the shifter feels as you shift a gear. You MAY have to use a screwdriver or such to pry and 'help' the block/shift rod move REARWARD. Once it moves rearward, you should be in 1st gear.

What you're doing by moving the metal block around is exactly the opposite position of where the shifter would be.....think about it! The video link is BELOW. Watch the whole thing....GOOD T5 info, some of which you may need. Let us know what your 1st gear ratio is. Hopefully, your 1st gear will be 3.35 ratio. DD


https://youtu.be/Dst89HqW8ow

[V8COOPMAN]

Hey LD .....I just came across this for the first time, and it sure ain't CHEAP! But if the situation comes-up that you could use a few more inches of seat clearance, this rig might just be the way to go. Those S-10 tail housing extensions are getting expensive and more difficult to find now-a-days (check eBay), and if in doing so you have to do a bunch of modifying to "FIX" your speedometer drive location and type, plus the R&R involved with pulling the trans out of the car, PLUS ya still gotta buy some sort of decent shifter anyway.....this thing starts looking better and better. And if you look carefully at how it is designed, you can install it so as to really zero-in on the exact location that you want the shifter to be.....fore/aft, AND left/right! Pretty slick, and just thinkin' out loud! DD

https://americanpowertrain.com/shop/...-style-offset/





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[LD-Ordie]

Definitely looks interesting ! And your right about those tail shafts! I did check and my first gear is 3.35. Parts are coming in, in the next few days, so I'm excited to see how the pieces all fall together. Flywheel is in the freezer and ring gear will be going in the oven. Hoping it just falls on

[51504bat]

Originally Posted by LD-Ordie

Definitely looks interesting ! And your right about those tail shafts! I did check and my first gear is 3.35. Parts are coming in, in the next few days, so I'm excited to see how the pieces all fall together. Flywheel is in the freezer and ring gear will be going in the oven. Hoping it just falls on

You might want to use the barbie instead of the oven so as not to upset the missus. That's what I did when I replaced the ring gear on my 8ba. The hot ring gear when on the frozen flywheel easy peasy.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by LD-Ordie

Definitely looks interesting ! And your right about those tail shafts! I did check and my first gear is 3.35. Parts are coming in, in the next few days, so I'm excited to see how the pieces all fall together. Flywheel is in the freezer and ring gear will be going in the oven. Hoping it just falls on

Hey LD .....Man, sounds like you've got things under control ....a good thing! So, you have a WC Mustang V8 T5 with a (expected) 3.35 1st gear. That is the best street gear set that you could ask for from a WC Mustang T5. Everything I have indicates that it MOST LIKELY has a ".68" OD ratio. Below is the link to a very handy T5 Identification chart which lists the numbers normally found on that bolt-on "factory" tag (which you're missing), along with the corresponding gear ratio breakdown.

http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Bo...T5-ID-Tags.htm

That transmission SHOULD require a 28-spline driveshaft yoke, and I THINK your driveshaft is gonna be roughly 3" too short. I'm curious how close that figure will turn-out to be. Please keep your progress updated. This has been fun, Bud! DD

[LD-Ordie]

I do appreciate the advice, but lucky for me, I married a true hot rodder. Always have something in the oven, a car, cycle part or firearm apart in the bar area. She drives a 52 Chevy as a daily driver. Loves firearms, helps me make beer, Got a good one!!

[LD-Ordie]

Thanks so much DD, it has been fun, especially as the parts are coming in and the assembly is close. So yes, 28 tooth yoke is coming, and your spot on regarding the driveshaft being 3" short. Probably looking at a whole new shaft. Your suggestions on shifters is right on, hoping I don't need to spend stupid $$$ on one, but I'll do what is required to make it right. Seems like my 55 3100 was $300.+ and I have no regrets after the fact. Only questionable issue I have is how the cross member is going to work. Hard to tell at this point if I can make something for the original unit to work and I'm not seeing any commercial options .

[V8COOPMAN]

.


LD ......This guy has used an '89 Mustang "WC" T5 with the 3.35 1st gear and a .64 5th gear. He claims to drive it like in this video "frequently". Click the link BELOW for a short "get-on-it"!


https://youtu.be/RdeX6BDjdXA


This is in a '56 with a 292. Picture of his shifter in relation with seat. He used a B&M "Ripper" shifter with an "S" shaped, 2" offset for the stick (forward or back). He set it so it moved the stick 2" forward and installed a Hurst curved stick! Just a couple of encouraging tid-bits! DD



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[LD-Ordie]

This is in a '56 with a 292. Picture of his shifter in relation with seat. He used a B&M "Ripper" shifter with an "S" shaped, 2" offset for the stick (forward or back). He set it so it moved the stick 2" forward and installed a Hurst curved stick! Just a couple of encouraging tid-bits! DD



........[/QUOTE]

Great stuff here!! Can't express how much I appreciate your advice! Hopefully others can also learn from the discussion. So thinking, 2" forward and 2" to the left for my application. Still going to wait until trany is installed before I order anything. Leaning towards this guy.......

[V8COOPMAN]

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Originally Posted by LD-Ordie

Great stuff here!! Can't express how much I appreciate your advice! Hopefully others can also learn from the discussion. So thinking, 2" forward and 2" to the left for my application. Still going to wait until trany is installed before I order anything. Leaning towards this guy.......

Hey LD .....I surely do like the looks of that gold shifter and what it does for you, BUT ......there's one thing that it appears NOT to do, and that is that it appears not to have "POSITIVE SHIFT STOPS". One of the faults of stock T5s is that they don't have positive SHIFT Stops in the stock shifters. Without such, the only thing to prevent "overshifting" is the internal structure of the gears themselves. The gears WILL stop moving (being shifted) when their physical limits are reached, BUT....there is nothing preventing the shift FORKS inside the transmission to continue TRYING to push the gear beyond it's preferred, shifted limit. By doing so, the shift forks can become bent, or even broken. This scenario also puts un-necessary wear on the soft shift fork pads causing premature wear on them.

If you're going to spend good money on an aftermarket shifter, I would certainly opt for one with positive stops incorporated. That B&M "Ripper" shifter that the guy with the '56 uses (as well as others) incorporates positive shift stops. You set the 'STOPS' initially when you install the shifter, and you can 'BANG'-away to your heart's content from then on. I would consider a shifter with the stops built-in. And like one of the other suggestions contained in the B&M info link (BELOW) is to replace the used output shaft bushing & seal in preparation for the new surface on the new driveshaft yoke. I would read the info in that entire link....some good stuff there! Picture below shows B&M's positive stops. DD

https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/02/t5/

[LD-Ordie]

Totally agree on the built in stops, even though I rarely power shift my cars anymore. So this outfit I shared offers their shifters with or without the stops. I'm leaning towards them because of the multiple options regarding stick locations. I did read the B&M link, good info there. Looked everywhere, it appears the Ripper is no longer available? So my ring gear came in today, yoke tomorrow, maybe I'll get most of it back together, just need to entice a friend to come over to stab the trany. I hurt my back some years ago, so I try to minimize doing dumb things now. My lift is also outside, and it's now getting up to 115, so being a wimp and limiting my time outside. Thanks agin for the assist!!

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by LD-Ordie

Totally agree on the built in stops, even though I rarely power shift my cars anymore. So this outfit I shared offers their shifters with or without the stops. I'm leaning towards them because of the multiple options regarding stick locations. I did read the B&M link, good info there. Looked everywhere, it appears the Ripper is no longer available? So my ring gear came in today, yoke tomorrow, maybe I'll get most of it back together, just need to entice a friend to come over to stab the trany. I hurt my back some years ago, so I try to minimize doing dumb things now. My lift is also outside, and it's now getting up to 115, so being a wimp and limiting my time outside. Thanks agin for the assist!!

LD .....Man, if that gold-colored shifter has built-in stops, by all means, I'd go with it too 'cuz it also makes the shifter's eventual location so adjustable. Sounds like you have everything almost together. One last little bit of trivia....these T5s are all METRIC. Being a Chevy-kind of guy, I'm going to assume that the four large bolts that hold the Mustang trans to the Ford bellhousing are 1/2" diameter bolts. Before you or one of your buddies go to lift that trans in place, make sure the four bellhousing bolts will fit through the four holes in the transmission. Being a metric-sized trans, when you go to fit the four Chevy (1/2") bolts through the four holes in an aluminum Chevy T5 case, the holes in the case are just a blond hair TOO small to let that 1/2" bolt slide through. If so, you need to take a 1/2" bit in a hand-held drill and ream the four holes out in the aluminum case.....just so y'all ain't caught by surprise holding that heavy trans up over your buddie's head. Let us know how it's goin'. It's 100º here too, although not as bad as where you guys are. DD



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[LD-Ordie]

[QUOTE=V8COOPMAN;2027051]LD .....Man, if that gold-colored shifter has built-in stops, by all means, I'd go with it too 'cuz it also makes the shifter's eventual location so adjustable. Sounds like you have everything almost together. One last little bit of trivia....these T5s are all METRIC. Being a Chevy-kind of guy, I'm going to assume that the four large bolts that hold the Mustang trans to the Ford bellhousing are 1/2" diameter bolts. Before you or one of your buddies go to lift that trans in place, make sure the four bellhousing bolts will fit through the four holes in the transmission. Being a metric-sized trans, when you go to fit the four Chevy (1/2") bolts through the four holes in an aluminum Chevy T5 case, the holes in the case are just a blond hair TOO small to let that 1/2" bolt slide through. If so, you need to take a 1/2" bit in a hand-held drill and ream the four holes out in the aluminum case.....just so y'all ain't caught by surprise holding that heavy trans up over your buddie's head. Let us know how it's goin'. It's 100º here too, although not as bad as where you guys are. DD


Was out under the lift at 0500, just delt with the trany by myself...... Did not know about the metric thing, but when I bought the adapter from MDL, it came with all the hardware and I double checked it in advance. So not so sure about having it all under control, still stumbling thru things even with all the help you have provided! So latest new challenge , the car has a cross member that the trany needs to have the tail section be fed over before attempting to instal into the bellhausing. In my case, it's not possible to do as there is not enough room between the car tunnel and cross member. Tried stabbing it on it's side, but still no way. Just wondering what others have done? Took a break to think about it, besides getting hot and giving my back a break.... Got up to 117 !! Now thinking of cutting out the center section of the crossmember, welding a plate on the backside overlapping the the portion left, and bolting it back in. Once the trany is fully forward, I believe there is room. Don't believe it will compromise the integrity of the frame. Your thought would be appreciated! Time to think outside the box!

Almost need to take a break on this as the wife and I are leaving on a cycle ride for a couple of weeks next Monday thru Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Utah, and blasting back home thru Nevada. Go a little prep work on the bike, then chill. Really need to be fully refreshed to spend long days in the saddle, especially with the heat wave we'll be dealing with. Thanks again!

[V8COOPMAN]

[QUOTE=LD-Ordie;2027362]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

So latest new challenge , the car has a cross member that the trany needs to have the tail section be fed over before attempting to instal into the bellhausing. In my case, it's not possible to do as there is not enough room between the car tunnel and cross member. Tried stabbing it on it's side, but still no way. Just wondering what others have done?

Man, it's always something! I have two POSSIBILITIES. First would be attempting to "FLEX" the floor UPWARD right at that point above the crossmember. You could use a floor jack to raise a 2 X 4 piece of lumber, pushing against that part of the floor. I don't know how much you'd have to raise the floor to alleviate the interference.

Second possibility.....If it would give you the room you need to fit, you can cut or grind-away that big, thick aluminum tab on the bottom of the tail shaft housing with the three holes in it directly below the shifter. You can also trim-away that thin aluminum FIN just in front of the big, thick, three-holed tab. AND....I don't see anything wrong with your cut & re-weld plan if it comes to that. DD




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[LD-Ordie]

Thanks DD, thinking of removing the chunk with the 3 holes just to allow more adj for drive shaft angle after it's in. But really think cutting out the center of that cross member is the way to go, but will bolt it back in afterwards incase it needs to be removed down the road. Gotta think others have installed the trany with the engine, but might need the radiator support removed first? Not a lot of talk on doing this swap, hard to believe....... Found the blue 56 you shared on the Y block forever site, but he has had no activity in 4 years. Still trying to reach out to him via a PM. Everything is a chain reaction. My mig welder is a Lincoln SP-250. Last couple of times using it, it was acting up like a bad ground. Have determined the stinger assembly needs to be replaced. When I put the 55 on the lift, went to use the mobil air lifts and the plastic reservoirs had cracked from the sun, now waiting on new ones. always something.....Thinking I need this bike ride to clear my head and allow parts to come in. Also might cool of a bit, got up to 118 yesterday with Death Valley approaching 130, only 60 miles away. Thanks again for all your feed back, I hope others are reading all of this and or may be of some assistance to folks down the road

[LD-Ordie]

After being home from my trip for a week, a little progress has been made. Trany is in for good, a new crossmember was fabricated for both the tail shaft and the emergency brake cable. A new driveline is being made, hoping it's done this week. My world class trany had the 5 degree tilt to it, but rather than go with the adapter at the bell housing , I made the crossmember the 5 degree. Came out OK.

Still having an issue with the shifter. It appears MDL and the outfit on Ebay are out of the plates for the Tremec T5. and any offset for the stick. Both say their fabricator in Orange Co. in southern Cal are lacking materials and could be a month or more. Could they both be using the same outfit? So, I bought one of the $30. short throw shifter's off Ebay just to be able to drive it while I figure it out. It came in and has the shifter stick spacing at 5/8" instead of 7/8" like normal and all the Hurst shifters. I had the opportunity to purchase a B&M Pro Ripper for the mustang T5. It was a new in box. Took a chance and bought it as these are no longer being made. Looking at the pictures, can't really tell what the spacing is on the shifter. It comes with the 2" S piece like the guy mentioned above in his 56. Can't find any real info on this so I guess i'll find out when it get's here. Looking at all the outfits making sticks, there is not a lot of options for the 5/8' shifter. I supposed a offset adapter could be machined if necessary. Making progress, but everything seems to be a challenge. At least got my welder fixed and the air pumps repaired on the traveling jacks on my lift.

If anyone has any information on shifters sticks with the 5/8" bolt pattern, it would be appreciated. Anything that looked like it could be says in the description, standard bolt pattern..... Yeah, OK. I have reached out to all I could find for clarification

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by LD-Ordie

After being home from my trip for a week, a little progress has been made. Trany is in for good, a new crossmember was fabricated for both the tail shaft and the emergency brake cable. A new driveline is being made, hoping it's done this week. My world class trany had the 5 degree tilt to it, but rather than go with the adapter at the bell housing , I made the crossmember the 5 degree. Came out OK.

Good to see you getting there! Man, I can't believe that Ford's solution was to have that angle built into the transmission itself, leaving everyone with your situation. One of "Ford's Better Ideas"! The Chevy boys planned for that tilt (17º in a Camaro) by making a specialty "tilted" bellhousing, leaving everything on the trans STRAIGHT with the world. Let us know what you think once you get to drive it. DD




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[JSeery]

It is also possible to make a remote shifter that allows you to put the shift handle just about anywhere you want it. You do have to have the clearance for the tube along to the top of the transmission to the original shifter location and the stub of the original shifter.

[LD-Ordie]

Originally Posted by JSeery

It is also possible to make a remote shifter that allows you to put the shift handle just about anywhere you want it. You do have to have the clearance for the tube along to the top of the transmission to the original shifter location and the stub of the original shifter.

This is the only option like your referring to that I could find. In my case, would have required extensive modifying to the tunnel, and stupid expensive. Probably better suited for a street rod application

[LD-Ordie]

So ran the cheapy shifter for a week or so and determined all my work is a go. Trany shifted fine, and gearing is perfect for my application. Shifter did it's job, but there's a reason it's a $30. unit

[LD-Ordie]

So the B&M shifter is in, unfortunately it has the 5/8 bolt spacing for the stick. No shift sticks to be found, so I made an adapter and was able to use a Hurst stick I had laying around. The 2" S bracket that came with it was a must to clear the seat. Ended up being a little busier than I wanted, but I was able to put the shift knob right where I wanted and is very comfortable to drive. Now I need to make a boot out of leather or vinyl to cover it all up. Big difference the way the B&M shifter works and was definitely worth the extra $$$. So overall, I'm very happy the way it all turned out! After a 100 miles or so, The car is a real joy to drive and the OD is perfect for cruising down the road. A big thanks to all that offered advice!

[5851a]

On your picture of drive shaft, is that one of the 2 piece rubber isolated drive shafts? My 67 Galaxie came new with one. I've worried that with age the rubber might separate but still holding up.

[LD-Ordie]

Originally Posted by 5851a

On your picture of drive shaft, is that one of the 2 piece rubber isolated drive shafts? My 67 Galaxie came new with one. I've worried that with age the rubber might separate but still holding up.

Yes it is. Not sure what it came out of, a good friend and machinist built it for me. Will ask next time I see him

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by LD-Ordie

Tranny shifted fine, and gearing is perfect for my application. So overall, I'm very happy the way it all turned out! After a 100 miles or so, The car is a real joy to drive and the OD is perfect for cruising down the road.

LD .....I'm glad to hear that you finally got it all together. In view of your statements above, it MIGHT be a good thing if you would emphasize for folks, just how glad you are that you ended-up with the Mustang CLOSE RATIO (3.35 1st gear) gear set, RATHER THAN that dumb S-10 gear set with the goofy "granny" 1st gear, and widely-spaced 2nd thru 4th gears. Ya done GOOD! DD

[LD-Ordie]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

LD .....I'm glad to hear that you finally got it all together. In view of your statements above, it MIGHT be a good thing if you would emphasize for folks, just how glad you are that you ended-up with the Mustang CLOSE RATIO (3.35 1st gear) gear set, RATHER THAN that dumb S-10 gear set with the goofy "granny" 1st gear, and widely-spaced 2nd thru 4th gears. Ya done GOOD! DD

So I admit I have no experience with the S10 trany, but in my opinion, gearing with this Tremec World Class is perfect for a full size car. I definitely would not want a lower 1st gear unless your application was going to be a truck with an occasional stump pulling!!

[JSeery]

Love the T5s, and looks like you did an excellent job with your installation! Yes, the gears are everything and often totally overlooked with the T5.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by LD-Ordie

I definitely would not want a lower 1st gear unless your application was going to be a truck with an occasional stump pulling!!

As it sounds like you're pretty-well pleased with your Mustang T5, your statement about "definitely would not want a lower 1st gear" makes me think that you would have loved the Camaro gear set with the 2.95 1st gear ....the one that I keep promoting so strongly. Just a few more MPH in a normal 1st gear wind-out. But the main point here is NOT getting stuck with that awful S-10 set of gears 'cuz of not doing one's homework. S-10 Tail shaft housing...YES! The gear set....NO freakin' WAY! DD

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

As it sounds like you're pretty-well pleased with your Mustang T5, your statement about "definitely would not want a lower 1st gear" makes me think that you would have loved the Camaro gear set with the 2.95 1st gear ....the one that I keep promoting so strongly.

Not just Camaro! Ford mustang as well, but Ford Motorsport (aftermarket). I like the T5z transmissions. There was a time I could purchase new ones for $1795 and free delivery (to the dealership). Hard to beat that price!