timken rear end

[gundoca]

Starting to get nervous, can't find much info on a 1938 one ton rear end. I was about to pull off the cap to check condition and it sure feels like something's being supported by the cap. Anyone know about this kind of rear, I'm thinking of just closing and grease the Hell out of it.

[gundoca]

Nobody???

[1952henry]

Here's an exploded view of your 51524 Timken...

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/61...-rear-end.html

[gundoca]

Thanks for the info. From what I can tell I think I will go with"if it ain't broke don't fix it"

[rotorwrench]

The OEM 1-ton rear axle is a semi-banjo style unit so it has drain & fill plugs but no cap like a early Dana 44 or a Chevy 12-bolt (both are much later car or light pickup axles). If your truck has a a replacement, we would need a photo of it to go on in order to ID what you have.

Light duty banjo rear axles have a slice of a center section and two axle bells that bolt up to each side of the center section. The 1-ton types have one side included at part of the center section with the other axle bell being removable and still have the axles bolted to the wheel hubs like the later heavy axles do then the wheel hubs are retained on the axle bells. The old prewar 1-tons all have a similar axle back to 1932 BB truck design but the 1938 would have shared the axle design with 1934 thru 1939 full-floating rear axles. If you have a 2-speed rear axle, then it is heavier than the 1-ton but they do have a cap on the back. They were introduced in 1938 and have a lever mechanism to select low & high speed.

[Bob C]

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Is it possible you are confusing the end of the axle shaft for a cap??

Bob

[gundoca]

I believe it is a one speed.

[Bob C]

Ok, that is the end of the axle. If you pull it all the way out you will
see the outer wheel bearing and the lock nuts.

Bob

[jimTN]

To pull the axles, unscrew the nuts nearly off and pound the end of the axle with a sledge hammer till it bounces out. you can then remove the nuts and locks. With the hubs pulled you can pack the bearings.

[gundoca]

So pack the bearings, does the differential fluid get out to the outer bearing?

[1952henry]

No gear oil should get to the bearings. And better than pound on the shaft flange as mentioned, there should be one or two threaded holes in the flange; thread a bolt into one and it will push the flange away from the hub so you can grab it, if necessary.

[rotorwrench]

That's definitely the 1-ton rear axle assembly. The little cone seats under the axle retainer nuts can get stuck so they usually need some persuasion with the jack screws after the nuts ar removed. There are two grease retainers in each hub assembly. There is an outer seal that keeps gear lube and grease separate just under the first hub retainer nut and an inner seal that keeps grease in the hub and dirt and moisture out.

If the axle shafts have been in there a while (and it looks like they have), they may take a slide hammer or something of that nature to get them to disengage from the spider gear splines in the differential housing. Its a full floater so there isn't anything inside that's holding them other than old father time.

[gundoca]

Initially I had the cap/flange out about an inch with just some prying but put it back in last night. Thanks for the explanation, it makes more sense now.