Mystery: Tie-Rod Shock Absorber

[Jim_Chesapeake_VA]

I am pretty new to the Model A world, had the car about a year, I have been sorting it out during that time. Finally getting some driving time on the car, we did over 30 miles this weekend. Noticed the car is wandering a bit on the road. Another Model A friend noticed I had a visible toe-in issue on the drivers side front (only). Looking under the car I found a shock absorber from the tie rod to the axle. I haven't been able to find any information about this type of installation (the car has the original shock absorbers on it also, condition unknown). Should I pull if off and what can of worms should I expect once I take it off?

[Bob Bidonde]

Gizmos like your shock absorber were vintage bandaides for wheel shimmy due to worn King Pins. The shock absorber increases the effort necessary to operate the steering, so I sugget you remove it. However, you may find the king Pins need rebuilding.

[alexiskai]

Steering dampers, I think they’re called. You can still buy them, but as Bob said it’s just covering up more fundamental problems.

[stevemclark]

In the Ford Service Bulletin Mechanical book on page 311 it says not to put any anti-shimmy device on the car.

[Jim_Chesapeake_VA]

Thank you for your answers. I suspected something similar.

[mcgarrett]

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You should check all the other steering components - tie rod ends, drag link connections, steering box adjustment, etc. for wear along with the king pins. Might be a combination of wear on these items which can amplify steering wobble/road-walk issues.

[nkaminar]

Also check the brake rod lengths. The lever for the front brake shown in the second photo looks to be vertical whereas it should be 15 degrees facing forward. Get a copy of Model A Mechanics Handbook Volume I, see https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...0031&cat=41621. It will show you how to adjust the rods and brakes. Once the rods are adjusted they need not be touched again.

[Ivan in southeast va.]

Are your front wheel bearings adjusted properly? Paul Shinn has a great video on YouTube.

[Jim_Chesapeake_VA]

Thank you. I found the page in Vol 1 (2-3) for adjusting the brakes. I adjusted them a while back and they have been working well. I did miss the 15 deg tilt so I will check that. Plan on popping off the shock absorber and doing a test drive. Will also jack the car up and check the wheel wobble from top to bottom. I suspect I will be rebuilding the king pins in the future. I did repack the wheel bearings and used the Paul Shinn video to install them.

[Randy in ca]

Originally Posted by Jim_Chesapeake_VA

I am pretty new to the Model A world, had the car about a year, I have been sorting it out during that time. Finally getting some driving time on the car, we did over 30 miles this weekend. Noticed the car is wandering a bit on the road. Another Model A friend noticed I had a visible toe-in issue on the drivers side front (only). Looking under the car I found a shock absorber from the tie rod to the axle. I haven't been able to find any information about this type of installation (the car has the original shock absorbers on it also, condition unknown). Should I pull if off and what can of worms should I expect once I take it off?

-
Not sure what you're referring to here, as by definition Toe-In is a factor of both front wheels.

[Bob Bidonde]

This may help you get the 15 Degree tilt:

[Stew Masche]

Originally Posted by Randy in ca

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Not sure what you're referring to here, as by definition Toe-In is a factor of both front wheels.

If the tie rod is not threaded equally into the ends at the spindles, the wheels will not adjust evenly, and one side can be off, resulting in uneven alignment and tire wear.

[Jim_Chesapeake_VA]

Thank you again all. I appreciate the expert advice. I will use the 15 deg pictures to help (the brake adjustment). The driver side appears to have more of a tilt then the passenger side.

[Randy in ca]

Originally Posted by Stew Masche

If the tie rod is not threaded equally into the ends at the spindles, the wheels will not adjust evenly, and one side can be off, resulting in uneven alignment and tire wear.

You need to give your head a shake and seriously think about what you are saying here!! Setting Toe-In by effectively lengthening or shortening the tie rod (by rotating it) affects both wheels - how can it not??

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Randy in ca

You need to give your head a shake and seriously think about what you are saying here!! Setting Toe-In by effectively lengthening or shortening the tie rod (by rotating it) affects both wheels - how can it not??

In a modern car with the steering box located between the wheels, and tie rods independent on both sides, yes what Stew said can be true and the wheels' toe-in can be adjusted independently. On a Model A, not so. Any adjustment to just one tie rod end will balance to both sides because the wheels will attempt to center. May throw off the center of the steering wheel, though.

A noticable "toe-in" on only one side, if true, may also indicate a bent axle... or any of a host of other steering geometry issues (like, as noted, worn kingpins).

JayJay

[Stew Masche]

After re-reading my post, and those of Randy in ca, and JayJay, I shook my head vigorously, and can now see the error of my ways.
Thanks guys, to help me see things ‘straight’

[Dave H]

The necessity for the damper could have arisen from the steering box being loose on the frame. A loose box can elongate the mounting holes and cause shimmying, so add that to the check list. Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the box.

[ThosD]

I rebuilt the entire steering linkage on my A about one year ago. New kingpins and bushings, replaced the steering arms with renewed balls, replaced the tie rod ball with a new round one and rebuilt the ball joints of the tie rod and drag link.
Prior to the rebuild, the car wandered all over the road. With a curtain rod alignment tool, I was able to set toe to an acceptable amount. Not sure about the accuracy of the tool. Car drives true; no steering stabilizer required. I just need to replace the old bias ply tires.

[johnneilson]

Originally Posted by ThosD

I rebuilt the entire steering linkage on my A about one year ago. New kingpins and bushings, replaced the steering arms with renewed balls, replaced the tie rod ball with a new round one and rebuilt the ball joints of the tie rod and drag link.
Prior to the rebuild, the car wandered all over the road. With a curtain rod alignment tool, I was able to set toe to an acceptable amount. Not sure about the accuracy of the tool. Car drives true; no steering stabilizer required. I just need to replace the old bias ply tires.

You will have a new car just by switching from Bias Ply to Radials.

I have two '30 coups, one on BP the other on radials.
One drives at 45 mph, the other runs down the freeway at 70+

John

[Terry, NJ]

You have a worn front end! Not only are the king pin bushings probably shot, but most parts are out of spec (probably) Let's take the king pins as a given. Just jack it up and do a top to bottom shake, side to side for wheel bearings. As i said, it's a given. Let's move on. Next, on your front spring, at each end there are shackles that are supposed to be centered with the knuckle of the spring. when these are no longer centered it means the bushings are worn out. This can cause a phenomena known as "Death wobble" It is scary! The cure? New bushings in the springs and spring perches. Next, Henry used 1.000 balls on the steering linkages. These are probably worn away too. Replace as needed. Look up steering box adjustments (4) and perform these., being careful of the two bearing end play adjustments, Snug, Not Tight! Tight breaks things! There are other things that might cause a previous owner to install one of these bandaid devices, such as bad wheel alignment and Radius rod connection. Good luck!
Terry