The Ford Barn

Bill Edstrom · 09-25-2010, 12:04 PM

I just finished getting my engine rebuilt with a new B cam, new crankshaft, and a Synder 5.5 head. Last week i went on a tour with the Up North Wisconsin, club. I had about a 150 miles on the engine at the start of the trip. The engine ran great during the tour execpt on the way back after 700 miles on the engine. The engine just stopped running at an intersection and then started after just sitting there. We then drove about 50 miles to a lunch stop where I took time to check the wiring and found a loose connection at the amp meter But before we got to the lunch stop I stepped on the brake to slow down and there was a loud backfire which I think was probably caused by the loose connection reduceing the spark voltage and causing incomplete commbustion. Anyway at the lunch stop the is oil running out of the fly wheel hsg like the BP oilspill. I checked the oil and I was a quart low so I added a quart of oil and we drove about 40 miles to a cheeze mart where we stopped and the oil was still runing out and I was low on oil again so I added another quart and requested that we stop in about 40 miles so I could check the oil level and replinish it. At stop the oil level was full and remained full for the next 100 miles when I arrived home. There has been a little oil from the hsg that has drained on the floor but nothing that is alarming.

I sorry for the long story but I thought it necessary to provide at much information
as possible. I suspect there was blowby which increased pressure in the crankcase forceing oil out thru the rear main. Could the backfire have caused a blowby that would cause this much leakage? Could someone tell us how blowby occurs? I would think that after 700 miles the piston rings would be seated.
I don't want to drop the pan to check main but of course I will to inspect it.

Any help to understand what happened will really be appreciated. Thanks

Bill Edstrom

James Rogers · 09-25-2010, 03:02 PM

I would check with the builder before doing any kind of major work like removing a main cap. Doing something may void any warranty if there was one.

Jerry in Shasta · 09-25-2010, 04:27 PM

Rings that are not seated in a "new" engine can cause excess blow by and oil leaks.
Are the plugs showing any signs of oil burning? If so the rings may not be seated yet.

The back fire is most likely cause by a lean or rich fuel mixture. Check for intake system leaks and/or low float level in the carb.

In addition to a poor electrical connection, a non or poorly vented gas cap will cause stalling, which cures it's self in a few minutes. Then it will stall again further down the road.

Just My W.A.G at the problem.
JIS

Kohnke Rebabbitting · 09-25-2010, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by James Rogers

I would check with the builder before doing any kind of major work like removing a main cap. Doing something may void any warranty if there was one.

Good Call James, Herm.

CWPASADENA · 09-25-2010, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry in Shasta

Rings that are not seated in a "new" engine can cause excess blow by and oil leaks.
Are the plugs showing any signs of oil burning? If so the rings may not be seated yet.

I agree!

I think I would continue to run it, keeping watch of the oil level and the leak. The fact that it quit leaking indicates the rings may be seating in. I think if there was some problem with the rear main bearing itself, it would not have stopped leaking.

Keep the oil level up but do not overfill it. If you start to hear any unusual noises or the leak returns, you may want to look further.

This is what I would do for now.

Chris

Bill Edstrom · 09-25-2010, 05:07 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

James, I have talked with the builder and there is not a warrenty problem. He and I work very well together.

Bill

MikeK · 09-25-2010, 05:09 PM

The loose electrical connection may be unrelated to the oil loss problem. It is possible that at the 700 mile point you had finally driven it hard and long enough to cause the pistons to heat hotter than they had ever been before.

Just one piston with insufficient clearance, or one ring with too little end clearance could have scored a cylinder wall or scuffed the side of the piston causing the rings to stick in their lands. The resulting loss of seal and excessive blowby would cause the oil out the rear. After more mileage the rings may have partially worked loose or reseated reducing the problem, but if that was the case, the damage is done.

Do a cylinder leakdown test at both TDC and BDC if you have that tool, elsewise do a compression test. If you have one that is way low, it is a rebuilder's error. In any case I would follow up with a bore scope examination of the cylinder walls. Pay particular attention to #4. That one always runs the hottest.

James Rogers · 09-25-2010, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Edstrom

James, I have talked with the builder and there is not a warrenty problem. He and I work very well together.

Bill

That's always the best way to follow up a question with a new motor

. It doesn't always happen that way and will always cause problems.

Flathead · 09-25-2010, 05:17 PM

I'm sure you have checked this but..........The oil cap fits right and isn't blocking the crankcase ventilation? Internal pressure will blow the oil through the rear main seal/baffle.

Pa Joe · 09-25-2010, 05:53 PM

Bill when you find out for sure what the problem is and the solution please post again to let us know. I'm sure I am not the only one interested in this. thanks Joe

Bill Edstrom · 09-26-2010, 09:26 AM

I will certainly let everyone know what i do and find.

Bill Edstrom · 09-26-2010, 08:52 PM

Btt

Glenn C. · 09-26-2010, 09:05 PM

The aluminum rear bearing labrynth seals are poorly manufactured. It is extremely important the the ends of this seal is perfectly machined with the surface of the block underneath the main bearing. I like to use a very thin wipe of Anerobic sealer in this area, or wherever you have metal to metal contact requiring sealing. A wipe of non-hardening Permatex is also recommended for under the aluminum seal to the engine block.

peters180a/170b · 09-26-2010, 09:09 PM

Bill , hope you find the problem and let us know. I just hit 60 miles on my 180A. I'll take it easy until 200 mile's .[I keep it under 40

] for now. Are you making it to Hershey or is that a stupid question

Good luck with your engine. James Rogers and MikeK,, thank you for your inputs they are always good reading and very helpful.

09-25-2010, 12:04 PM	#1
Bill Edstrom Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 36	Rear Main BP blow out I just finished getting my engine rebuilt with a new B cam, new crankshaft, and a Synder 5.5 head. Last week i went on a tour with the Up North Wisconsin, club. I had about a 150 miles on the engine at the start of the trip. The engine ran great during the tour execpt on the way back after 700 miles on the engine. The engine just stopped running at an intersection and then started after just sitting there. We then drove about 50 miles to a lunch stop where I took time to check the wiring and found a loose connection at the amp meter But before we got to the lunch stop I stepped on the brake to slow down and there was a loud backfire which I think was probably caused by the loose connection reduceing the spark voltage and causing incomplete commbustion. Anyway at the lunch stop the is oil running out of the fly wheel hsg like the BP oilspill. I checked the oil and I was a quart low so I added a quart of oil and we drove about 40 miles to a cheeze mart where we stopped and the oil was still runing out and I was low on oil again so I added another quart and requested that we stop in about 40 miles so I could check the oil level and replinish it. At stop the oil level was full and remained full for the next 100 miles when I arrived home. There has been a little oil from the hsg that has drained on the floor but nothing that is alarming. I sorry for the long story but I thought it necessary to provide at much information as possible. I suspect there was blowby which increased pressure in the crankcase forceing oil out thru the rear main. Could the backfire have caused a blowby that would cause this much leakage? Could someone tell us how blowby occurs? I would think that after 700 miles the piston rings would be seated. I don't want to drop the pan to check main but of course I will to inspect it. Any help to understand what happened will really be appreciated. Thanks Bill Edstrom

09-25-2010, 03:02 PM	#2
James Rogers Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Asheville,NC Posts: 3,104	Re: Rear Main BP blow out I would check with the builder before doing any kind of major work like removing a main cap. Doing something may void any warranty if there was one.

09-25-2010, 04:27 PM	#3
Jerry in Shasta Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: (Old)Shasta (Redding) CA Posts: 385	Re: Rear Main BP blow out Rings that are not seated in a "new" engine can cause excess blow by and oil leaks. Are the plugs showing any signs of oil burning? If so the rings may not be seated yet. The back fire is most likely cause by a lean or rich fuel mixture. Check for intake system leaks and/or low float level in the carb. In addition to a poor electrical connection, a non or poorly vented gas cap will cause stalling, which cures it's self in a few minutes. Then it will stall again further down the road. Just My W.A.G at the problem. JIS

09-25-2010, 05:07 PM	#6
Bill Edstrom Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 36	Re: Rear Main BP blow out Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) James, I have talked with the builder and there is not a warrenty problem. He and I work very well together. Bill

09-25-2010, 05:09 PM	#7
MikeK Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Windy City Posts: 2,919	Re: Rear Main BP blow out The loose electrical connection may be unrelated to the oil loss problem. It is possible that at the 700 mile point you had finally driven it hard and long enough to cause the pistons to heat hotter than they had ever been before. Just one piston with insufficient clearance, or one ring with too little end clearance could have scored a cylinder wall or scuffed the side of the piston causing the rings to stick in their lands. The resulting loss of seal and excessive blowby would cause the oil out the rear. After more mileage the rings may have partially worked loose or reseated reducing the problem, but if that was the case, the damage is done. Do a cylinder leakdown test at both TDC and BDC if you have that tool, elsewise do a compression test. If you have one that is way low, it is a rebuilder's error. In any case I would follow up with a bore scope examination of the cylinder walls. Pay particular attention to #4. That one always runs the hottest.

09-25-2010, 05:17 PM	#9
Flathead Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern Maine Posts: 1,497	Re: Rear Main BP blow out I'm sure you have checked this but..........The oil cap fits right and isn't blocking the crankcase ventilation? Internal pressure will blow the oil through the rear main seal/baffle.

09-25-2010, 05:53 PM	#10
Pa Joe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Pittsburgh Pa Posts: 188	Re: Rear Main BP blow out Bill when you find out for sure what the problem is and the solution please post again to let us know. I'm sure I am not the only one interested in this. thanks Joe

09-26-2010, 09:26 AM	#11
Bill Edstrom Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 36	Re: Rear Main BP blow out I will certainly let everyone know what i do and find.

09-26-2010, 08:52 PM	#12
Bill Edstrom Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 36	Re: Rear Main BP blow out Btt

09-26-2010, 09:05 PM	#13
Glenn C. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Didsbury Alberta Posts: 838	Re: Rear Main BP blow out The aluminum rear bearing labrynth seals are poorly manufactured. It is extremely important the the ends of this seal is perfectly machined with the surface of the block underneath the main bearing. I like to use a very thin wipe of Anerobic sealer in this area, or wherever you have metal to metal contact requiring sealing. A wipe of non-hardening Permatex is also recommended for under the aluminum seal to the engine block.

09-26-2010, 09:09 PM	#14
peters180a/170b Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Putnam Valley N.Y. Posts: 2,151	Re: Rear Main BP blow out Bill , hope you find the problem and let us know. I just hit 60 miles on my 180A. I'll take it easy until 200 mile's .[I keep it under 40 ] for now. Are you making it to Hershey or is that a stupid question Good luck with your engine. James Rogers and MikeK,, thank you for your inputs they are always good reading and very helpful.