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01-19-2019, 09:23 PM | #21 |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
Ralph,
It sure seems like there's a couple things not happy with your carb. 94's are very sensitive to vacuum leaks especially between the base and bowl AND excessive clearance between the base an throttle shaft. From bitter experience I have found the most reliable source for power valves is Daytona parts. This is only my opinion but I would establish for sure your pump puts out no more than 2 1/2 psi. I'd obtain a Daytona 6.5 power valve and while I was waiting for the power valve to arrive I'd make sure there was no more than .0035 clearance between the throttle shaft and the base....if more I'd fit an oversize shaft. Lastly establish that the bottom face of the bowl is flat. Every 94 I build requires some degree of machine work on the bottom face of the bowl. It is not uncommon to find that face twisted or warped .015 or more out of flat. Again this is only my opinion, I certainly respect any and all other opinions. Charlie ny |
01-19-2019, 10:32 PM | #22 | |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
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01-19-2019, 11:32 PM | #23 |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
Ford38v8
Following advice from here I did get a new machined power valve from Vintage Speed along with a proper gasket. That was one of the first things I went with. At this point I'm thinking it's the fuel pump pushing too much fuel in, overpowering the needle valve and the float. May be why I see little bit of fuel leaking out of the top of the carb. Now I just have to find a proper fuel pump, somewhere other than Mac's. @Fortyfords Originally my wife's grandfather built the car with a Ford motor, later on I think the block developed a crack. He found this Merc motor and swapped it out using most of the parts from the original motor including the carb. |
01-19-2019, 11:35 PM | #24 |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
As far as fuel pumps go. Does anyone know where I can get one that will work like it's suppose to? Or someone that properly rebuilds them.
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01-20-2019, 12:18 AM | #25 |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
Ralph, if gas is leaking out the top of your carb, then yes, it may be coming from a pump delivering too much pressure. If you still have the old pump, dismantle it to salvage the spring, and swap the old spring for the new one in the MACS pump. New pumps are known to have high pressure due to springs being too strong.
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01-20-2019, 08:46 AM | #26 |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
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swap does not work out. My pumps are ethanol proof, e mail me if you wish. Charlie ny [email protected] |
01-20-2019, 09:10 AM | #27 |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
@Charlie NY
Email sent |
01-20-2019, 07:30 PM | #28 |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
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01-21-2019, 06:37 AM | #29 |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
Interested to hear the outcome...
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Regards, Todd 1936 FORD Tudor Slantback "cajunhotrodder" on instagram/youtube |
01-21-2019, 12:04 PM | #30 |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
Guys,
Ralph is sending me his original pump and the Mac's pump and I hope his carb. I have assured Ralph that when his parts arrive I'll get on them pronto. I will repair/rebuild as required and get the parts back to him as quick as possible. He and I will keep everyone posted on how things work out. I do hope this thread remains on page one. Charlie ny |
01-21-2019, 01:15 PM | #31 |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
My 41 did not run smooth before rebuild of carb. installed a Mr. Gasket fuel regulator and pressure gauge down stream of regulator. Set pressure at 2 1/2 # and runs great, problem solved. BTW the regulator will not work by it's self, the markings on it are way off. That's why I use a pressure gauge ahead of carb. Al
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01-22-2019, 11:45 AM | #32 |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
Have you determined that the float level is correct and that the float itself infact floats and does not bind up? Bad needle or seat and or bad float could be also causing this over rich problem.
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01-22-2019, 01:24 PM | #33 |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
@ deuce roadster
Checked and tested the float, it's operation and setting. I'm fairly confident it was the pump pushing too much pressure. Charlie NY will be doing his magic on my pumps. I'm fairly confident the issue will be corrected once I get the pumps back. I will post an update once fixed. |
01-24-2019, 06:22 PM | #34 |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
You will need to adjust the air fuel mixture once you get the correct fuel delivery and float leavel. When it was running rich I did not see you mention that you tried turning the air fuel mixtures screws in all the way (gently seat them). That should completely shut off the fuel at idle. If it doesn't, your getting fuel from another source.. Once you have the correct float level and fuel pump pressure you will need to adjust the fuel mixture at idle. Turn both screws in until they "gently" bottom out and back them out 1 1/2 turns. Start the engine. The goal is to turn the screws to achieve the highest possible idle. You must turn both screws the same amount to "balance" the carbureto . You can try a 1 /4 turn at a time. Turn them both in a 1/4 turn at a time until the idle starts to drop. Then back them off a 1/4 turn at a time until it reaches its fastest idle. Now your getting pretty close. Set your idle speed with the idle adjustment screw. Now take one of those small propane bottles and pass it over the carb, or give it a very small shot of starting fluid . If the idle goes up your set to the lean side and you need to back the air fuel mixtures screws out another 1/8 to a 1/4 turn at a time. You keep going back and forth until the propane does not have any effect on it. If you give it propane and the idle drops the engine is already getting too much fuel. Turn the screws in a little at a time. When the mixture starts to go lean again adding propane will make the idle go up. Then you back the screws out until the propane does not have any effect it. It helps to bottom out the air fuel mixture screws and then make a little white dot at the top of the screw heads, to help count the turns evenly. You get to be a master at this you can move on to choosing correct size power valves and main jets.
A carburetor will never operate the same two days in a row because of barometric pressure changes. Most of the time you will never even notice it. Every once in a while your car will fill slightly sluggish or it seems like its running better. You almost chock it up to your imagination. Sometimes it is the weather affecting the carburetor. Its always a good idea to set the air fuel ratio just slightly to the rich side for better all around driving. Its better too run the engine "slightly" rich than it is lean. |
01-24-2019, 06:28 PM | #35 | |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
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01-24-2019, 09:48 PM | #36 |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
Guys,
The fuel pumps arrived @ 6pm today, Thurs 1/24. Both are off shore made. The older of the two was jammed up solid.....diaphragm hard as a rock. The newer pump ( last one on Ralph's motor ) put out slightly less than 3 psi.....so......I hope to get the carb soon. Charlie ny |
01-25-2019, 12:54 AM | #37 |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
I had this problem once. What happened after I rebuilt the carb the float wasn’t pushing the needle against the seat and was actually flooding the carb. When you take it apart again check waythe needle connects to the float. Pick the float up to where it hits the needle against the seat. See if the tab hitting the needle is to low. This would cause more gas to enter the carb and flood it making it to rich.
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01-25-2019, 03:13 PM | #38 |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
Guys,
I'm sending 2 pumps back to Ralph as soon as they air out....either Sat morning or Monday AM. I installed my own diaphragms in both and each tested slightly less than 3 psi. As promised I freshened one of his China pumps & I rebuilt a second pump using a USA core with the pet cock and replaceable phenolic valves. No carb yet, that will be down the road perhaps. Charlie ny7 |
01-26-2019, 12:45 PM | #39 | |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
Quote:
Also when you remove a carb that you suspect has a needle and seat problem blow into it before you disassemble it to verify if the needle and seat are working properly. I suggest draining the fuel out of the carb first otherwise don't be blowing out any birthday candles for at least a day. Never blow air from a compressor through the needle and seat or anywhere else that leads into the float bowl while the carb is assembled I did it once on the carb on my 8N Ford tractor. The 120 lbs. of air pressure going inside the float bowl crushed the brass float as flat as if you had hit it with a sledge hammer. |
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06-14-2021, 02:27 AM | #40 |
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Re: Car doesn't want to run after carb rebuild
Ralph ………..we’re you able to resolve your issue here. I have the same one with my ‘40 94 Carb.
Thx…..Mike |
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