Ignition Cable

[dmaxweb]

I currently have the thin stainless steel covered wire and a Nurex look-a-like pop out switch. For a more authentic appearance I purchased one of these short cables.

https://modelastore.com/index.php?ro...&category_id=0

I'm thinking about cutting the existing thin cable under the dash (I prefer not to remove my freshly plated instrument panel) and connecting it to the wire in the shorter armored cable using a quick disconnect. The disconnect would be in the cab under the dash. Since the repro head stud clamps do not tighten down on the armored cable if I need to remove the distributor I can simply disconnect the wire and slide the armored cable out.

This is the type of disconnect I am considering.
"Suitable for 12 and 14 Gauge wires. The system is rated 0.05–16.0 VDC, 0-20A. Rated from -40 degrees F to 257 degrees F"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...OUK533GU&psc=1

Does anyone know the ignition wire gauge?

Also, any thoughts overall?

[Badpuppy]

What I don't like about the shorter cable is that it doesn't arc through the firewall properly after being clamped - points almost straight up. Wish i'd bought the longer cable, but I extended the armor with a length of 3/4" copper pipe and duct tape; worked ok. What I like about the skinny cable is it can be removed without pulling the distributor.

C'mon, it's not that hard to pull the dash. But wire is 16 ga. if you must.

[rotorwrench]

For 6-volt systems, it should be 16-AWG.

[dmaxweb]

Originally Posted by Badpuppy

What I don't like about the shorter cable is that it doesn't arc through the firewall properly after being clamped - points almost straight up. Wish i'd bought the longer cable, but I extended the armor with a length of 3/4" copper pipe and duct tape; worked ok. What I like about the skinny cable is it can be removed without pulling the distributor.

C'mon, it's not that hard to pull the dash. But wire is 16 ga. if you must.

How long have you had the shorter cable? I tried one probably 10 years ago and it was almost too stiff to bend at all. I've heard they are better now. The motor is out right now so I can't check the fit.

Per post #1 regarding removing the distributor - "Since the repro head stud clamps do not tighten down on the armored cable if I need to remove the distributor I can simply disconnect the wire and slide the armored cable out."

[Badpuppy]

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Originally Posted by dmaxweb

How long have you had the shorter cable? I tried one probably 10 years ago and it was almost too stiff to bend at all. I've heard they are better now. The motor is out right now so I can't check the fit.

Per post #1 regarding removing the distributor - "Since the repro head stud clamps do not tighten down on the armored cable if I need to remove the distributor I can simply disconnect the wire and slide the armored cable out."

About 2 years now, Snyder's I think. It is a stiff bend, probably why it won't turn into the firewall easily.

I think he means disconnect inside and pull cable through the firewall. Easier to twist the cable out of the dist than spinning same off the cable. And my repro clamp holds it just fine.