1932 Coupe Roof insert

[jim1932]

Well, my insert got bad enough for me to replace it. I have been slowly removing it. From looking at the 32 book I believe I have nice original tack strips (David?). They are definately steel. A couple of questions. who makes the best kits these days? What was there was an awful smearing of goop with no rubber seal. The vinyl was all the way under the tack strip, which made it stick up. Is the correct? Or does the vinyl only go under the lip of the tack strip?

[Newc]

Roofing tar is common-job to clean. Check tarred cardboard for the nails. pros will add good advice. Newc

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by jim1932

Well, my insert got bad enough for me to replace it. I have been slowly removing it. From looking at the 32 book I believe I have nice original tack strips (David?). They are definately steel. A couple of questions. who makes the best kits these days? What was there was an awful smearing of goop with no rubber seal. The vinyl was all the way under the tack strip, which made it stick up. Is the correct? Or does the vinyl only go under the lip of the tack strip?

[DavidG]

Hi Jim,

It has been a while. Judging from your photos, it is most definitely time to replace your coupe's top insert. I also agree that your original tack strips look to be in good shape. Hopefully the underlying perimeter wood is all good as is or can be made so with some help from a modern wood filler.

With LeBaron Bonney gone and Mac's pulling out the soft-goods side of their business, there's no obvious choice for a source for a kit for the job. Perhaps the basic materials could be sourced from a Model A supplier or you could just obtain the four required materials individually for a DIY job. You can get new chicken wire at Tractor Supply, likely the sheet padding from a upholstery supply house, and the long/short grain black vinyl ought to be available with a little searching on the internet. (Based on my experience, I recommend that you not include SMS Fabrics in Oregon on your list of possible material sources unless you want to wait months and months for them to deliver.) Carpenters were at one time the only source for the rubber insert for the fully installed tack strip, but I do not know if they still provide it. It works, but not all that well as it is not am accurate reproduction; it is too narrow.

I have no idea how the Ford workers used tacks to first install the outer fabric over the padding and chicken wire and then the tack strips without occasionally missing the head of the tacks and whacking the tack strip or worse yet, the paint on the roof adjacent to the tack strip. I'm not that accurate with a tack hammer and it is not a job that lends itself to the use of a stapler, at least not on a '32. So I use small (#2 or #3 wood screws) instead of tacks, but with Robertson heads so that your screw driver doesn't end up doing damage like a misplaced tack hammer strike.

I've done several new roof insert installation and while some may prefer the benefit of a second set of hands, I've found that it is job easily accomplished by one person mindful of the two Ps, patience and perseverance.

And yes, the outer fabric extends out around the perimeter so that the tack strip is installed directly on top of the fabric. I use a good liquid sealer beneath the edges of the fabric, on top of the installed fabric, and in the valley of the tack strip after the screws are in place.

[rotorwrench]

Ford used what they referred to as Dum-Dum strip caulk for some things like this but a person has to be careful how they apply it. If a person uses too much or it gets too warm, it can be a mess. The 3M strip caulk is about the same thing. It's a form of butyl rubber that is a lot like tar. There are a lot of modern seam sealers that might be better but go easy on it, whatever you do.

Toothpicks can be used to fill old nail holes if the wood is still pretty solid. Jamestown Distributors has all sorts of stuff to aid in wood repair. A person may be able to use a setting tool to drive the nails down into the strip. A lot of care there too. Preformed tack strips and the tack strip seal materials are available but I don't know if any of it works as good as the original stuff.

[jim1932]

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Based on how hard the tacks come out, I would say my outer wood is solid. The spans and domelight wood..... not so much. Should I glue and screw the center span? I hate to replace original wood.

[rotorwrench]

Wood members can be spliced if a person has the wood working tooling and a good bit of information on the subject. A well repaired member is as strong as the original member if done well. A lot depends on how much time and energy a person wants to put into it. That has as much value as money for new parts in some cases.

[DavidG]

I also would try saving the original wood. If that proves to be impractical, United Pacific offers the top wood and their reproductions are said to be very accurate. Of course what they offer is the complete top wood, including the perimeter pieces, which you've indicated may not required.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by jim1932

Based on how hard the tacks come out, I would say my outer wood is solid. The spans and domelight wood..... not so much. Should I glue and screw the center span? I hate to replace original wood.

[jim1932]

Well it has been scarey to do, but I got it off with out any breaks or kinks. Not straight, but I can fix that.

[jim1932]

more.

[Krylon32]

I've used the complete top wood kit from United Pacific which was very high quality and just the bows from Ford Wood in Utah. I found the Ford Wood bows did not have quite the same arch as the originals, Not a problem, just required a little more padding.

[DavidG]

Jim,


Given the existence of that welting or whatever in the perimeter plus the "extra" pieces of padding and the absence of chicken wire beneath padding, it is highly likely that the top material was replaced at least once previously.

[rotorwrench]

The signs are certainly there. The poultry netting is a pretty important part of the installation. It's what keeps everything in proper shape for the most part. It also helps keep things a bit more sturdy and prevents sagging of the material over time.

[Krylon32]

While is not original and period perfect, preventing any sagging is why I use 1/8th inch tempered Masonite in place of chicken wire. Once the tops on and the headliner installed nobody will know.

[jim1932]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Jim,


Given the existence of that welting or whatever in the perimeter plus the "extra" pieces of padding and the absence of chicken wire beneath padding, it is highly likely that the top material was replaced at least once previously.

Yeah, there was no way this was all original. It stuck up too high. Is the insert pattern close to what I am looking for?

[DavidG]

Jim,


I've encountered two different original materials used on U.S. closed cars. One of those I have never encountered a replacement for and the other is the short long grain material unlike the long grain material in your photo. That is what LeBaron Bonney provided with its top insert kits. They did not make it, of course, so it is still available from various vinyl material suppliers.

[jim1932]

For those interested, this is what the next level down looks like. A ton of tacks in this thing. I am also noting the splits in the wood at every tack of the underlining.

DO NOT start by prying under the tack strip from the outside....this is where I started and you can see the scratches. I then ripped all the material off the top and came at it from the hole side.

[Krylon32]

Just looked, Speedway has the United Pacific top wood in stock 430.00, free shipping. I used it in my 5 window and it was a perfect fit.

[jim1932]

Originally Posted by Krylon32

Just looked, Speedway has the United Pacific top wood in stock 430.00, free shipping. I used it in my 5 window and it was a perfect fit.

think I will fix mine or make a new one. I will pre drill the holes for the liner or use staples