Flathead Babbitt

[OldGold360]

Does anyone know where I can get an early V8 block rebabbitted in WA or OR? Or anywhere in the PNW? I’ve called a few numbers that I’ve found on this forum or elsewhere online but it seems the numbers are no longer valid.

Thanks

[T Scott]

Try Randy Paycheck in Prosser. He might not be too far from you and used to do a lot of early Ford stuff including balancing. I don't know how active he is these days but worth a try. 509 786 2911

[[email protected]]

Bill Barlow in Bend used to do Model A engines and might be able to do yours

Otherwise H&H in LA

[OldGold360]

Bill Barlow used to be the go to guy but I’m pretty sure he isn’t doing that work anymore. I did speak with Randy but he doesn’t pour Babbitt.

When I spoke to H&H he told me “nobody does Babbitt.”

Someone out there does this work.

[petehoovie]

Click on this link > https://fusionbabbitting.com/service-areas/washington/

[OldGold360]

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Originally Posted by petehoovie

Click on this link > https://fusionbabbitting.com/service-areas/washington/

Thanks, but they aren’t in WA. They are in WI.

[OldGold360]

I think I should just learn how to do this myself. I’m sure that somewhere out there is a bunch of tooling for Flathead re-Babbitting. Anyone got some?

[Kurt in NJ]

there’s a Aamco 400 align boring setup on ebay, it has the flathead locating fixtures
you will need a melting pot, temperature gauge good to 900-1000 degrees
the KRW pouring moulds have to oil grooves built in.— it just does the block, the “krw” method you would buy factory caps —
temperature control is important, the caps are tinned, fitted to a mold hot , the tinning has to be a melting point so the babbitt creates chemical bond— too hot and the tin burns, too cold and no bonding.
after the block is poured the babbitt has to be peined to reverse the shrinking and have it fit tight to the block—- if you are still interested i will look fo more information for you to study

[Kurt in NJ]

read this—
http://www.boatregister.net/Library/...dBearing_1.pdf

it one of the best guides on doing babbitt that i have read

[OldGold360]

Thanks Kurt,
I do plan on pouring some babbitt for my engine since I cannot find anyone that can do this work. It would be nice to find some molds, but if I need to machine them, I can. I appreciate the information. Thanks

[rotorwrench]

The Pdf file from post #9 has good info but it is outdated for alloy source information. Usable alloys are still available so a person need to get that information from purveyors of such materials.

I've noticed that each different master of these procedures generally has there own way of doing certain related tasks. The main thing is that their results are good and sound. It is an art form that is slowly fading as the need for such services diminish.

There are more folks that do model A and T engines but not as many doing L-head V8 engines. The Ford V8 babbitt bearing blocks were only poured by the Rouge about as long as the factory produced model A blocks were which is approximately four years. Model A blocks were outsourced till 1940 but the V8s were not. They were replaced with later type V8 engines in most cases. Due to this, there aren't as many V8 babbitt forming tools out there to purchase. Pouring from both sides is also an interesting experience if only one person is on hand. It's easier if two people do the job. Ford didn't use shims on the V8s mains as far as I know. They just weren't made to use them.

Con rods and caps can effectively be tinned for babbitt but the block is just too big to do that effectively. This is why the bearings are peened into the block. This is a good link that one fellow made to show how he does a model T.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35nR601cHz8

Another one with info.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...babbitt&page=2

Herm Kohnke died a while back but his son is still doing babbitt rework in all sorts of engines.

A person might contact H&H. I've heard that they convert the early V8 blocks for replaceable shells.

[OldGold360]

Thanks for the info. I am not trying to discount the skills and info needed to be able to pour Babbitts, but the process seems relatively simple for a mechanically inclined person. I’d be capable of machining molds and whatever tooling is necessary but I do have a lot to learn on the subject to be able to produce quality Babbitt bearings. I think it’s worth an attempt. Unless someone comes along and figures out insert bearings for the early V8s. I spoke with H&H and got the short response of “No, nobody is doing that.” Others I spoke to were more helpful and provided suggestions and info that has been helpful.

[B-O-B]

You might talk with these folk. They have a engine for sale with GM brgs in the swap section.
Send a message via ICQ to Lcpritchard
Default Ford Flathead V8 block 1935-36
City: Morganton
State: NC
Price: $4600

We have a 1935-36 Block with BB Chevy main bearing inserts. Also has T-6 aluminum thrust bearings and NOS connecting rods. It will be completely assembled with heads, oil pan and intake for the above price of $4600. Shipping costs are not included in the price.
Please email any questions to [email protected]. Thank you!

[AZ_Nick]

You can also download the Mahle bearing catalog and find something close by OD and ID. I have the V8 locators for the Kwik Way but have never messed with them. There's nothing complex about them if you are a machinist, you will just end up spending a lot of time and money getting setup to do babbitt for a one off.