Jackson III 2nd Condenser -How

[jg61hawk]

I read the below in a post on backfiring and didn't want to "hijack" that thread with my question.

Re: Misfire and backfire when hot
Here is something that is easy to try. Connect a second condenser from the passenger side of the coil to ground. Easy with jumpers.

How do you do that, and is this a simple roadside fix / test if you suspect a bad condenser...Do you wire to the coil and how do you ground???

I love the simple tests/fixes like jumping the two lugs on the box to bypass the voltage meter if no spark!!

Thanks.

[Jacksonlll]

The easiest way is using jumpers. A lot of people mount a condenser on the fire wall, that grounds it, then an alligator clip to the pass. side of coil.

[jg61hawk]

So that replaces the condenser in the system? Supposed the original condenser is OK, it's fine that they both are firing? This sounds like a great roadside fix.... Are my questions all YES answers? Thanks for the great tip!!! One last question...the POSITIVE side of the coil should be red wire on the passenger side of car? Again hoping for all yes answers.

Jim

[katy]

I love the simple tests/fixes like jumping the two lugs on the box to bypass the voltage regulator!!

Voltage regulator? What voltage regulator?

[jg61hawk]

I corrected the post...I meant voltage meter, when you get no juice.

[old31]

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Yes, the POSITIVE side of the coil should be red wire on the passenger side of car.

Just take a mirror underneath and see if you see a + or - on the dist.

[Jacksonlll]

Yes to all. I have always heard that you have a higher probability of a new one being bad than an old good one going bad. I think a lot of good condensers are changed out. The A is unique in that it can cook a good condenser if things get hot enough.

[jg61hawk]

Thanks so much. Perhaps a thread should be started about fast roadside bypasses, like the jumper wires on the junction box and this type of fix to by pass/ check the condenser...what else you got up your sleeve??

[California Travieso]

Originally Posted by jg61hawk

Thanks so much. Perhaps a thread should be started about fast roadside bypasses, like the jumper wires on the junction box and this type of fix to by pass/ check the condenser...what else you got up your sleeve??

He already has a lot of that stuff on YouTube. Check it out.

David Serrano

[Bill G]

I see an item of terminology that might need addressing. That is, when you jumper across the two posts on the junction box, you are bypassing the Ammeter, not voltage meter. That's kind of an important distinction electrically speaking. The ammeter is in series with the entire electrical circuit and when you jumper across it, you are eliminating the possibility that the ammeter has some how burned up or the connections are not holding out well. That is really all you are doing.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

But if the ampmeter is bad and you jumper it, then wouldn’t the ampmeter be acting as a cut out or voltage regulater??? So “technically” he’s right. Smiley face

[jg61hawk]

Ha Bill G...funny you said that...first I said voltage regulator, then volt meter, I should have walked out to the car!!! It says AMPERE... the older I get the better I was!!!

THANKS TO ALL for this forum.

[Bill G]

Originally Posted by Chuck Sea/Tac

But if the ampmeter is bad and you jumper it, then wouldn’t the ampmeter be acting as a cut out or voltage regulater??? So “technically” he’s right. Smiley face

No, jumpering it just bypasses (short circuits) the ammeter entirely as if it were not there. In the standard Model A, the real regulator is the battery's ability to absorb the current the generator throws at it in a passive sense. No active voltage regulator exists in the Model A. But, you are correct in that with no ammeter in the circuit, that does cut out the load to the battery and all heck breaks loose and the generator can run amuck.

[jg61hawk]

Yes but the important thing here is............the older I get the better I was!!!

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Am not sure, maybe I am missing something. I can see this working if the condenser is opening. But if the old condenser is left in and the fault is the condenser is shorting, the shorting is still there and the second condenser is shorted by the original condenser.


Aren't most bad condensers due to shorting?

[Karl]

You can of course make a temporary condenser by sticking two wires into a potato.
I read about some guy doing it with a Landrover in 2015. Didn't really believe it but it got me home when my 1910 Hupmobiles magneto went bad once I just wired the potato so that it was across the points and surprisingly it worked

[Al 29Tudor]

I just tried Jackson's parallel condenser quick fix.
Loosen the passenger side terminal on the coil and slide the pigtail terminal under the nut and tighten it. Use a wire with two alligator clips, one the tab on the condenser and the other end to the screw on the firewall. just minutes
Great tip.
Al

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by Jacksonlll

I think a lot of good condensers are changed out.

I have often thought about that. Back in the day when you brought your car in for a "tune up" they just automatically changed out the condenser (among other parts). no testing just out with the old, in with the new.

I wonder how many 'good' parts were just thrown out. Back when we were young and poor we salvaged many batteries, points, condensers, rotors, caps, etc.

Now I am old but still poor...

[old31]

Old post but that's ok.

So, how is the condenser tested?

First, ground the condenser, then what do you do with the pigtail on the condenser? #17 says loosen the passenger side, but that doesn't say the + or - side, who knows how the coil was installed. Then where do the jumper wires go?

[jg61hawk]

I accidentally reposted this thread in answering another thread. At any rate the condenser gets grounded by mounting to firewall and then a jumper from pigtail of condenser to positive coil.....or if mounted close enough wire to coil with no jumper.

OLD31...You knew that a year ago!!! See post 6 on here......Funny stuff we do.