Cotters (nit picking)

[Charles Reese]

In studying the cotter pins (1-1-28 Parts Price List) I notice:
(1) several of the cotters associated with the front end has suffix “ZP” (zinc plating?).
(2) the cotter for the radiator to frame bolt has suffix “RF” (raven finish?).
(3) I assume all the others were plain steel.

* While I presume the raven was to protect the cotter somewhat from radiator water I don’t understand the reason for the zinc plating on the front end components.

*Given the propensity for unfinished steel to rust (particularly in my southern humidity) how do the stainless cotters hold up to judging scrutiny?

* How does one measure the gauge of a cotter (i.e. caliper across both legs or just one leg)?

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Charles Reese

...*Given the propensity for unfinished steel to rust (particularly in my southern humidity) how do the stainless cotters hold up to judging scrutiny?...

Stainless pins are way too stiff and hard to use (IMHO). I'd just rather use plain ones and replace them when needed.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Charles Reese

In studying the cotter pins (1-1-28 Parts Price List) I notice:
(1) several of the cotters associated with the front end has suffix “ZP” (zinc plating?).
(2) the cotter for the radiator to frame bolt has suffix “RF” (raven finish?).
(3) I assume all the others were plain steel.

* While I presume the raven was to protect the cotter somewhat from radiator water I don’t understand the reason for the zinc plating on the front end components.

*Given the propensity for unfinished steel to rust (particularly in my southern humidity) how do the stainless cotters hold up to judging scrutiny?

* How does one measure the gauge of a cotter (i.e. caliper across both legs or just one leg)?

The lenght of the cotter pin is from under the eye to the end od the shortest leg. The diameter is measured using both legs.

As for judging, I remember reading somewhere that a coating (clear) was allowed as to perserve the part from rusting. I'm sure Marco will clear that up if I have it incorrect.

[Craig Lewis]

Stainless will pass judging. It's in the JS ...unless it changed.
IMHO clearcoating to prevent rust would be impossible with cotter pins...think about it.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

My Lord!
I'm only worring, what's for dinner?
Are we going to loose sleep worrying about cotter key colors?? Henry was a cheap old sh*t and got them from whoever was the cheapest, no matter what color they were. You and I would do the same, I'm sure! Bill W.

Bill, ...you just don't get it do you?? A) It helps when you know the person and their project before you give sarcastic advice. B) It helps if you would know the facts before you give advice about Mr. Ford too.


Charles, the biggest thing I think needs to be done in cotters is "re-shaping" them to have a head that looks more like original ones were. Unless you have found a source, most of the new ones I find today don't really match the original ones I have removed.

[eystein]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I bought a set of stainless steel cotters. But they're giving me hell as they are so tough that clipping them to their required length is really hard. I may go with unfinished ones from now on. For clear coating of nuts and bolts I apply a drying oil called Owatrol after the bolts are mounted.

http://www.owatrol.com/index.php?lan...rustol-owatrol

[Steve Plucker]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Bill, ...you just don't get it do you?? A) It helps when you know the person and their project before you give sarcastic advice. B) It helps if you would know the facts before you give advice about Mr. Ford too.


Charles, the biggest thing I think needs to be done in cotters is "re-shaping" them to have a head that looks more like original ones were. Unless you have found a source, most of the new ones I find today don't really match the original ones I have removed.

Brent,

You couldn't of said it any better.

Pluck

[Charles Reese]

... the biggest thing I think needs to be done in cotters is "re-shaping" them to have a head that looks more like original ones were. Unless you have found a source, most of the new ones I find today don't really match the original ones I have removed.


With some (limited) trepidation , I must ask if someone can post a pix of an original with the head Mr. Terry describes.

PS, thanks for the support ... just the curious type ...

[Joop]

Doc to the rescue

Do not know when he published this but maybe a start.

Click on it 2 times to enlarge it!

..

[Jim Mason]

Photo also shows the almost diamond shaped modern head on the cotter pins (ugly as far as I'm concerned)...fwiw,jm

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Brent,
Don't get your dander up, I didn't mean to be SARCASTIC, just trying to add a little "HUMOR"to the subject.
Maybe I should keep my "HUMOR" to myself. My apoligies to whoever I may have offended.
The dog just suggested that I become just a "lurker," and keep the FEW things that I do know to myself.---Bill W.

[peters180a/170b]

Charles , ,, The late Roger Kauffman said to me one day - IF the shine of stainless steel cotter pins bother you in anyway then bead blast them . Reshape the heads ???? boy you better have a super car to start with before you go that route....

[Gary Karr]

I used stainless cotters on my Tudor. I slighly bead blasted them and cut them to the correct sizes according to the parts books. I must say that they are really hard to bend! I got my share of skinned knuckles doing them!

[Richard in Anaheim CA]

Bill,

I didn't think you were offensive. Keep posting. If you can't have a little fun on here, why log on. I draw the line at installing nails instead of proper cotter pins.

They didn't like my comment of having my keys cut at Home Depot either.when they were haggling about an original ignition key and a repo ignition key. Of course they couldn't agree which was which either.

Incidently, several mentiontioned cutting them to length. I can't believe that is acceptable to the judges? Even I prefer to install a correct length cotter pin.

Richard
Anaheim CA

[fordman67]

I just wish I was to the point of cotter pins....on anything!

[ford1]

bill you didnt say any thing offensive, only brent did with his post to you, a shame, hes such a smart man, wonderful with cars

[Jordan]

im just happy if my cotter pins are where they're suppose to be

[pooch]

We in OZ just wish you guys would call your "cotter pins" ......split pins as they are.

Cotter pins are used in bicycle cranks and motorcycle kick starters.

[Craig Lewis]

Brent was defending the right of a fellow restorer to ask a logical question towards the betterment of his restoration.
This forum has quite a following of likeminded individuals, and they come here to read & learn from other's questions.
I picked up some handy info as a result of Charles question and made some notes to boot!
If I wanted to learn how to "just get by" and "call it good enough" and worship "cheapest is best" I'd be at another forum or facebook or tweetin or texting.

No offence to Bill who MAY very well have posted with humorous intent...but this is merely printed matter & there is no facial expressions to see or any other indication of his tone or intent.
All we see is BOLD print, a reference to his religious leader of choice and exclamation marks.
Sorry...but I read it as yelling.

It would be nice if we could eliminate all these missunderstandings & just get along.
In the meantime a possible answer if you suspect your posting may be missconstrued, is to use the Coloured Face Icons provided @ the right of your screen.
After all .........they're FREE

[HoarseWhisperer]

There's a fine line between humor, lampooning, and sarcasm.

Knowing the difference, the timing and your audience can be most beneficial.