59 Ford Instument Voltage Regulator problem

[FRITZ47]

I have a 1959 Ford Galaxie 500 Convertible, and with ignition on, my fuel gauge reads "full" (it is not full) and the temperature guage reads "hot" and it is not even warmed up. Per Mac's Ford, they sell an "Instrument Cluster Constant Voltage Regulator" (Part B9MZ-10804-C.

Mac's says in their catalog: "If all the dash gauges read maximum then this is the culpert. Its job is to feed a constant stream of lowered voltage to your gauges and when it fails the voltage is allowed to increase and all your needles are pegged to the right. It is located on the back of the instrument cluster. If you have a problem with just one gauge, then it's likely the sending unit or the dash gauge". I bought one of these, but cannot figure where to install it as can't find the old one.

I then referred to my 1959 Ford Electrical Assembly Manual and it shows this voltage regulator to be wired from the ignition switch through a Black/Green Band Wire to the regulator and then a Black/Green Band Wire to both gauges (there are two tabs for push on wiring on the back of the regulator). It is almost impossible to get to from below the dash and using a mirror I was unable to even see anything resembling this regulator. Yet my gauges have all the symptoms of what Mac's describes.

Does anyone know exactly where this regulator is mounted, and also is there an easier way to get to all of this? I am thinking that I may have to remove the entire instrument cluster and if so, any ideas on how to do so? For now, I am trying to keep track of miles driven and gas put in the tank, and even made a wooden stick to be sure that I have some fuel, as running out of gas is not a good plan. As for the heat gauge, the car does not run hot, but would like to get this gauge working as well.

Hoping for some ideas - Thanks.

Fritz47

[Gerry]

I don't know where but on this board I found a way of making on from radio shack parts for about $4.00 and it works just fine. As for where it is I found one on a 57 and a small screw held it ot th back of the speedo guage.

[FRITZ47]

Thanks Gerry - I took a quick look and didn't see the regulator on the back of the speedometer gauge. I will take another look tomorrow. I did see the two wiires nicely in place on the back of the temperature gauge, so will try to trace back the wire towards the ignition switch to see if I can find the regulator. Wow is it hard to get under the dash with a flashlight to see all of this and wonder how I will be able to install this, if and when found. I am hoping that I do not have to remove the front seat, but if I spend much more time under the dash, this might be an option.

I noteced four or five phillips head screws on the chrome trim above the large gauge cluster from the driver's side and am in hopes that by removing these screws, I can somehow push back the cluster to get everything to be visible from the driver's compartment. Looking for some ideas, as I am in uncharted waters.

I have Six Ford V8s (1947 Ford Convertible (shown on my avatar), 1959 Ford Convertible and a 1953 Ford Station Wagon, a 1937 Ford Fire Truck, a 1958 Ford Fire Truck and a 1951 Ford Stake Truck are all shown below. My son has a really nice 1937 Ford Tudor Street Rod (not shown). My Fords are all original.

See some of my cars at www.tpcarcollection.com

Fritz47

[FRITZ47]

I finally found the original regulator for the gauges under the dash. It was just to the right of the speedometer center (looking from below) and was held in place with 2 sheet metal screws, which were very tight, leading me to believe that it had never been removed before. It was longer than the replacement, but assume the replacement will do the same job.

In installing the wires (push on connectorsr) one of the tiny rivets holding the tab on the new regulator broke off as I pushed the wire into place. This required that I disassemble it and attach the tab with a small brass bolt and nut and solder the wire inside. Somehow I get a feeling that this part was made in China, as the original had a very wide attachment instead of about a 3/32" rivet head (or smaller) on the replacement part.

I took a look at the original part, which had a slotted attachment for each end, unlike the replacement from Mac' that had only one slotted attachment. The original one looked OK, but the points were dirty - may have worked if I cleaned the points, but since I already had the new one from Mac's, installed that one.

After installing the new one the fuel gauge is now working. The heat gauge no longer shows Hot, but now shows Cold (it moved just a little past the right edge of the C after it warmed up, but I do not feel that engine is that cold as I drove it for about 5 miles in 90 degree weather and it didn't move. I will check the sending unit next week.


Here are three pictures of the OLD ONE. There is a small adjustment screw on the old one, but the new one was sealed. Thanks for looking - maybe this will help someone else.

Fritz47

[Ford blue blood]

Not much to them is there? They actaully put out about 5 - 6 volts chopped with both instruments hooked up. Given the speed that the points open and close it is really amazing they last as long as they do. The one in my 57 is original and does a super job just like it was new.

[tdlmomowers]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I had to replace the one in my 69 Torino GT. What a Pain in the A#$. I had to pull the whole dash pad off and remove the gauge cluster. While I had it apart, I replaced all the dash bulbs and sockets.

[FRITZ47]

Speaking of dash bulbs and sockets, my GEN light lights up before starting and goes off when generator is charging, but my OIL light does not work when key is turned on and stays off. I pulled the bulb and it is a #57 and the filament looks OK, so maybe the trouble is in the sending unit. This will give me something to check on next week.

As you said - a real Pain.... Working upside down on a Sunday afternoon with temperatures around 95 degrees isn't my idea of a fun afternoon, but at least I have the fuel gauge working.

About 35 years ago we were trying to get the windshield wipers working in a 1960 Continental Convertible that I owned at the time. We were unable to get to it, as everything was buried under the dash. So we stopped at our friendly Lincoln dealer and asked the mechanic. He said, "It is almost, but not quite impossible, but it can be done". So following his advice we went back to work on the car and found his statement to be very true, but we finally got if fixed.

Fritz47

[Ford blue blood]

You can check the circuit for the oil light buy just grounding the sender wire at the sender to the engine. If the light comes on the sender is bad.

[FRITZ47]

Thanks Bill - I will try this tomorrow morning. Fritz

[FRITZ47]

Originally Posted by Ford blue blood

You can check the circuit for the oil light buy just grounding the sender wire at the sender to the engine. If the light comes on the sender is bad.

I first checked the #57 bulb on the dash and it was good, so I reinstalled this bulb and tightened up the connection where it plugs in. I then took a jumper wire and grounded the oil pressure guage wire - the dash light worked! So I am ordering a new sending unit today. Thanks for the advice on this.

I am wondering about Mac's recommendation to use teflon tape on the threads of the oil pressure and heat sensing units, as I seem to recall that I read somewhere that both make a connection to ground through the threads. Maybe I am missing something, but this could be possible. Any ideas on this?

Fritz

[tdlmomowers]

Both senders should have tapered pipe threads, so no sealer should be nesessary.

[Ford blue blood]

What he said! The teflon tape has a chance of insulation the sender from chassis ground and all of the senders need ground to funtion properly.

[FRITZ47]

I ordered 2 new sending units today (oil & heat) and both will be installed without teflon tape, as feel certain that teflon tape might insulate the sensors and make them either not work at all or not work properly.

When I restored my 1939 LaSalle (6-volt system), I ran dedicated ground wires for all of the lighting and everything works perfectly. Bad grounds are often the source of many disappointments, especially with our old cars.

Fritz