ooga horn not working

[D's31]

Hi I have a 1931 tudor delux that the ooga horn is not working. I have taken it apart and wired It straight to the battery and it works fine. I put it all back together and when I push the button on the steering wheel to make the horn work it sounds for 1 second and then shuts off. If I press it again it will not sound anymore. Can anyone give me tips on what to look for or what I need to do to have it fixed? I was thinking of taking the horn rod out, but I do not know how to do it any explanations on how to do this would be very helpful.

[Tom Wesenberg]

How long have you had the car?
Is this a new problem that just started?
Remove the light switch and jump the center horn contact to ground. If the horn sounds good then remove the horn rod. My horn didn't work good until I pressed the horn button down and rocked it around to clean the grounding surface.

To remove the horn rod you remove the light switch, then push up against the spring pressure on the spider, then remove the C clip. Some cars you'll need to remove the column for clearance when removing the horn rod.

[Mike V. Florida]

What does the amp meter do when you press the button?

[Fred K-OR]

Have you oiled the bearings lately? I did not do mine and had a similar problem as you until I put some 3 in 1 oil on the bearings.

[midgetracer]

Tom's post is my guess. I find that there is corrosion on the ground contact at the steering wheel. if you rock the button it usually makes good enough contact for the horn to sound.

[D's31]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Greta info, I will look into all of these tips.

[Mike V. Florida]

If the amp meter shows a discharge of 5 amps but no horn sound you most likely have a problem in the horn. Bearly moving and the problem is most likely a problem in the horn wiring. Not moving at all the problem is most likely a wire/connection that is opening up.

[D's31]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

If the amp meter shows a discharge of 5 amps but no horn sound you most likely have a problem in the horn. Bearly moving and the problem is most likely a problem in the horn wiring. Not moving at all the problem is most likely a wire/connection that is opening up.

Thank you for the info.

[inex01]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

Have you oiled the bearings lately? I did not do mine and had a similar problem as you until I put some 3 in 1 oil on the bearings.

It was so weak and then I oiled it and now works perfectly

[D's31]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

Have you oiled the bearings lately? I did not do mine and had a similar problem as you until I put some 3 in 1 oil on the bearings.

When you say "have I oiled the bearings lately" what do you mean? I am new at this and don't know where I would find that. Would you be able to explain a little more on where this is at and how to get to it? Any tips will help a lot

thanks

[jthomas6]

Originally Posted by D's31

Any tips will help a lot

thanks

Try this: http://modelabasics.com/ahoogaHorn.html

[D's31]

Ok, I have taken the horn apart and it works while the screw that adjusts for the ooga noise is all the way out, as I start to adjust the screw to make the ooga sound the motor starts to slow down and stops spinning. The horn button gets warm after a while of pressing the button. What do I do now? Do I just buy a kit to replace the brushes? Any help is appreciated
Thanks

[captndan]

Looking for that answer too.

[Tom Wesenberg]

High resistance causes heat, so I would suspect your horn button needs to be cleaned for a better ground connection.

My Model A horn button didn't have the best connection to ground when I first bought the car, so I tried the easy way out to start. I just pushed the button down and kind of rolled it around while pressing down. This scraped the contact area clean, and it's worked fine since.

[jerry tocci]

Set meter to ohms then hold one lead to tip of switch rod and the other lead to chassis as someone presses horn button. The meter should zero out if good

[D's31]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

High resistance causes heat, so I would suspect your horn button needs to be cleaned for a better ground connection.

My Model A horn button didn't have the best connection to ground when I first bought the car, so I tried the easy way out to start. I just pushed the button down and kind of rolled it around while pressing down. This scraped the contact area clean, and it's worked fine since.

I tried wiggleling the horn around and moving it in different directions, but nothing happens. If I push the bottom and release the horn adjustment screw the motor turns and as soon as I screw it back in to make it sound it stops spinning.

[D's31]

Originally Posted by jerry tocci

Set meter to ohms then hold one lead to tip of switch rod and the other lead to chassis as someone presses horn button. The meter should zero out if good

Ok will do, does the fact that the horn motor spins while the adjustment screw is out and stops when it is screwed in have nothing to do with the horn itself?
Any suggestions are appreciated

[midgetracer]

Since the horn button is getting warm, It appears that you are not getting a good ground connection to the horn. The horn has the hot wire always hot at the horn and the horn button completes the ground part of the circuit. Take a wire and hook it to a solid ground such as a head bolt and touch the other end to the horn connection where the blue wire attaches. if the horn blows fine, the horn is not the problem and the problem is in the horn button or horn button wiring. Hope this helps.

[midgetracer]

The horn spins with the adjustment screw out because it dosent require a lot of current. As soon as you put a load on by moving the adjustment screw in, the current is not enough to spin the horn.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Clean ALL the connections,use an eraser to clean the commentator, and use some electric cleaner on the bearings followed by light oil.