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Old 11-12-2011, 03:53 PM   #1
30six
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Default 36 electrical issue

There seems to be a drain on my battery. I have rebuilt distributor, coil, starter and generator checked (no problem), and new Optima battery and starter switch.

When I turn key and move column switch to "on" the amp gauge drops to -15 amps this happens before pushing floor starter. When I push down on starter it bottoms out. All connections and ground have been checked, cleaned and tightened.

Thoughts and areas to check.

Thanks!
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Old 11-12-2011, 04:41 PM   #2
ken ct
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Default Re: 36 electrical issue

Check your brake lites or BL switch.ken ct.Thats a pretty heavy drain?
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Old 11-12-2011, 07:16 PM   #3
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Default Re: 36 electrical issue

Ken:

Will do, THANKS!!
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:37 PM   #4
Mike in AZ
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Default Re: 36 electrical issue

lights on??....if the B/L switch or lights isn't culprit, maybe disconnect wiring to lights, horns, etc.....one at a time, stuff that isn't needed to start....hopefully something will show up....good luck....Mike
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:53 PM   #5
Ken Crans
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Default Re: 36 electrical issue

Is it possible that the drain is coming from the contact brushes drawing from the generator? Having the same problem. I put a quick disconnect switch on & juice the battery once a month . Ken
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:06 PM   #6
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Try isolating the problem one at a time. Disconnect the generator and turn on the switch. If it still discharges heavily, connect it back. Disconnect your ignition source and check again. Check any other items on the `hot' side of your switch until you find the culprit.

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Old 11-13-2011, 06:30 AM   #7
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Default Re: 36 electrical issue

When you turn the ignition switch to the "on" position you should only be energizing the wire to the resistor, the resistor, wire to the coil, the coil and distributor. So look for the problem to be any of the above, unless the car is modified from original. Try removing the wire from the coil and isolating it, then turn the switch to "on" if the excessive current draw is gone the problem lies in the coil or the distributor, if it still exist the problem is in the wires or the resistor.
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:48 AM   #8
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Default Re: 36 electrical issue

30six, Is your car stock? Has it been converted to 12 V? Original wiring? Any added accessories? Does everything electrical work? When it's running does it show a charge? Do you have ground straps or wires tying battery to engine to frame to body? While disconnecting one item at a time is a proper way to start to find the problem, a little more info might help to figure it out.

Electrical problems can drive you nuts, but most of the time turn out to be some simple little "why didn't I think of that" thing. While a battery cut off switch is a good thing, it is not a good way to "fix" an electrical problem. Forget just one time to flip that switch, and it could cost you your car, your shop, your house, and even worse.

In my case, "worse" would be "my wife would whoop my butt" for forgetting to turn the switch off. ;<)
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:41 PM   #9
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Default Re: 36 electrical issue

Car has stock 59AB engine with 6v electrical system.
- All grounds were removed, cleaned and retightened.
- Removed battery wire on generator and still have same drop in voltage.
- Recent rebuilt coil from Skip.
- Recent rebuilt distributor.
- New cable from starter switch to starter
- New cable connections to battery with correct gauge cable for 6v.

Will start in morning to disconnect wiring to lights etc.
Now that I think about it my low beam and running lights work, brights do not and when I turn switch to bright position the amp gauge bottoms out.....Will be first issue to look at.
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Old 11-13-2011, 09:04 PM   #10
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Default Re: 36 electrical issue

You have a short somewhere. Headlights seam to be suspect frm what you say.
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Old 11-19-2011, 06:49 PM   #11
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Default Re: 36 electrical issue

Any updates?
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Old 11-19-2011, 07:06 PM   #12
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Default Re: 36 electrical issue

Check the regulator
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Old 11-19-2011, 07:28 PM   #13
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Default Re: 36 electrical issue

No updates to drain on battery, it has been too cold and windy here to work in unheated garage.

Will check all suggestions once it warms up and give update.

Thanks for all suggestions and Happy Thanksgiving!
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Old 11-20-2011, 09:14 AM   #14
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Default Re: 36 electrical issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by 30six View Post
No updates to drain on battery, it has been too cold and windy here to work in unheated garage.

Will check all suggestions once it warms up and give update.

Thanks for all suggestions and Happy Thanksgiving!

Is the Optima a yellow top? I have had three of these in my OT truck and all three would drain while sitting!

EDIT: I just noticed you said the drop occurs when you turn the switch on so I am probably wrong here.
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Old 11-20-2011, 10:09 AM   #15
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Default Re: 36 electrical issue

If you have a floor starter does it work,you should NOT have a ign switch for starter.If so nobody is going to steal it on the starter motor.Now whats on when key is turned on.Does it run any more.
Is the dist wired backward. Is it pos ground, neg would go to switch.
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Old 11-20-2011, 10:32 AM   #16
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Default Re: 36 electrical issue

Most drains are associated with components or accessories that can be energized without the key/ignition on. The brake light switch was mentioned but you would notice the brake light or lights on when it is. Headlights are only energized when the switch for them is on. You mentioned that this vehicle has a later engine as an up grade. If it still has a three brush generator, the cut out is the only component that can stick as cause the gen to want to motor. This is a big current draw. If you have a two brush generator with a three pole regulator, then you still have a cut out in there that can stick and cause the same problem. Dead shorts to another wire or to ground will blow a fuse or pop a circuit breaker in most cases unless it is an unfused system like the generator. Most of these types of problems only show up when the particual system switch is energized.

I had problems with a helicopter that would discharge with the battery switch off and it was traced back to a simple clock that was wired to be hot all the time. The damn little clock would run the battery down within 3 or 4 days if you didn't run the machine and recharge the battery.

Kerby
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Old 11-20-2011, 03:03 PM   #17
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Default Re: 36 electrical issue

Three brush generator with new Fun Projects cut out regulator.
It has been set per instructions. 3rd brush set to amp gauge at "0" with headlights on.
It worked properly when I put it on and shortly after my amp gauge shows drain.

6 volt positive ground with wires to correct post on coil. I put old regulator back on to check and make sure the Fun Project one was not working, have same reading with old and new.

Floor starter is new (on / off switch on column drop)

Thanks!
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Old 11-20-2011, 03:43 PM   #18
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Default Re: 36 electrical issue

Floor starters were always hot,its not a good idea to run thur switch on colume.Those switches are for acc and ign.
If you get the engine to turn over direct,then run to coil and it should start.If you don,t like the starter to be hot all the time go with a key switch and do away with floor switch.
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Old 11-20-2011, 03:43 PM   #19
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Default Re: 36 electrical issue

It sounds like your problem is limited to what is going thru the ignition switch - try disconnecting the coil lead and the accessory lead from the back of the switch with the Bat lead still connected. Then turn the ign switch on and see what happens to the ampmeter - nothing hopefully. If the ampmeter does the show a discharge, take a look at what is going on in the switch and while you have the switch apart, clean the contacts and put dielectric grease on them. If the switch is OK with the Accessory and coil wires removed, then connect the coil wire and see what the ammeter does when the ign switch is turned on and if that tests ok, disconnect the coil wire and connect the accessory wire and turn the ign switch on, thus energizing the fuel and oil pressure guages. The wire to the guages may be defective, but not the wires to the senders which only furnish ground to the guages. If the wires to the senders are grounded the guage will show a high reading. As a point of interest, check the condition of the wire from the ign switch to the guages, it may have bad insulation and shorting to the temp guage conduit that goes to the motor - Had that with my dash lights - made new harness, but the lights do not go thru the ign switch. Something is connected to that ign switch that is causing the problem - heater? radio? although you did not mention either of those items. Best wishes and Happy Thanksgiving.
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Old 11-20-2011, 04:42 PM   #20
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Default Re: 36 electrical issue

I think your problem you are feeding back thur your selinode.Remove the wire at selinode.See if the amp meter is less.I don,t see how it ever worked thur the key switch.
The selinode works by grounding it.The terminal at selinode is hot always and you putting power to it ,backs thur the coil in the selinode.Even with key switch it would NOT work.
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