The Ford Barn

HalcyonDays · 09-19-2021, 09:53 AM

I am having trouble inserting the shaft pin in the sleeve on the distributor. The hole in the shaft lines up if I do not use the thrust washers. If those washers are installed the hole is just enough off that the pin does not go through the shaft.

Is there a difference in the placement of the hole in shaft, on a one piece distributor shaft as opposed to a two piece shaft? This distributor originally had a one piece shaft and I am replacing with a two piece shaft.

I have tried several sleeves and they all seem to have the same issue.

Bob C · 09-19-2021, 10:11 AM

Sounds like the washer may be to thick.

Tom Endy · 09-19-2021, 10:23 AM

When rebuilding a distributor I use the following technique:

I install a .010 steel washer at the top and a fiber washer at the bottom. I line the hole in the sleeve to the shaft. If it would make it too tight I take the coupler over to the grinding wheel and grind some metal off the top and try to fit it again. It is a trial & error process until the pin goes in and I can turn the shaft by hand.

Sometimes I find the opposite, it is too loose and there is thrust clearance. In this case I add a .010 steel washer just above the fiber washer. There are slight differences in the castings.

Tom Endy

rotorwrench · 09-19-2021, 11:06 AM

I don't know how the manufacturers drill the shafts but they should be to a specific tolerance of location in my way of thinking. I've looked for a specification on the end play but I don't find much on line. Shafts like that should have some end play. I figure around .0025 to .005 should be fine. I'm fixing to overhaul one myself so I'll see if I can find out what the thickness of the shims that are available. The shim thickness would be key to getting the proper end play spec I just mentioned. If a person puts it together with no shim at all and it falls within that spec then I wouldn't get too worried about it. It should be fine. If the shims are too thick to help then a person would have to find some thinner shims or live with what you have. I think the fiber washers are available in two thicknesses. One from Bratton's is .048" but the other they mention has no dimension listed. I'm not sure how well some fiber washers would hold up. I've seen some that have no fiber washer on the bottom. I don't know if a previous rebuilder excluded it or if it disintegrated.

There is likely some thrust loading from the distributor shaft drive assembly depending on how much end play it has. It would be hard to tell how much play exists unless the drive was removed and inspected. I'd figure that it may not have that much affect on the distributor unless it too has a lot of end play due to drive gear sleeve wear or wear on the dive body casting (or both).

chrs1961815 · 09-19-2021, 01:03 PM

I think the body wears at the bottom and maybe the top a bit. The washers are there to prevent that. On the bottom I like to use steel washers as the fiber ones don't last nearly as long.

John · 09-20-2021, 07:46 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I do something similar to Jim. I find that the fiber washer/steel washer combo is too thick for most distributors. I fit the shaft by facing the coupling in a lathe for proper hole alignment. If just a small amount removed is needed, the fiber washer can be sanded down instead.

John

HalcyonDays · 09-21-2021, 10:49 AM

Good advice from all. I will grind a little off the coupler and be good. Thanks again

09-19-2021, 09:53 AM	#1
HalcyonDays Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Maine Posts: 224	Rebuilding Distributor I am having trouble inserting the shaft pin in the sleeve on the distributor. The hole in the shaft lines up if I do not use the thrust washers. If those washers are installed the hole is just enough off that the pin does not go through the shaft. Is there a difference in the placement of the hole in shaft, on a one piece distributor shaft as opposed to a two piece shaft? This distributor originally had a one piece shaft and I am replacing with a two piece shaft. I have tried several sleeves and they all seem to have the same issue.

09-19-2021, 10:11 AM	#2
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,741	Re: Rebuilding Distributor Sounds like the washer may be to thick.

09-19-2021, 10:23 AM	#3
Tom Endy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 3,131	Re: Rebuilding Distributor When rebuilding a distributor I use the following technique: I install a .010 steel washer at the top and a fiber washer at the bottom. I line the hole in the sleeve to the shaft. If it would make it too tight I take the coupler over to the grinding wheel and grind some metal off the top and try to fit it again. It is a trial & error process until the pin goes in and I can turn the shaft by hand. Sometimes I find the opposite, it is too loose and there is thrust clearance. In this case I add a .010 steel washer just above the fiber washer. There are slight differences in the castings. Tom Endy

09-19-2021, 11:06 AM	#4
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,425	Re: Rebuilding Distributor I don't know how the manufacturers drill the shafts but they should be to a specific tolerance of location in my way of thinking. I've looked for a specification on the end play but I don't find much on line. Shafts like that should have some end play. I figure around .0025 to .005 should be fine. I'm fixing to overhaul one myself so I'll see if I can find out what the thickness of the shims that are available. The shim thickness would be key to getting the proper end play spec I just mentioned. If a person puts it together with no shim at all and it falls within that spec then I wouldn't get too worried about it. It should be fine. If the shims are too thick to help then a person would have to find some thinner shims or live with what you have. I think the fiber washers are available in two thicknesses. One from Bratton's is .048" but the other they mention has no dimension listed. I'm not sure how well some fiber washers would hold up. I've seen some that have no fiber washer on the bottom. I don't know if a previous rebuilder excluded it or if it disintegrated. There is likely some thrust loading from the distributor shaft drive assembly depending on how much end play it has. It would be hard to tell how much play exists unless the drive was removed and inspected. I'd figure that it may not have that much affect on the distributor unless it too has a lot of end play due to drive gear sleeve wear or wear on the dive body casting (or both). Last edited by rotorwrench; 09-19-2021 at 11:16 AM.

09-19-2021, 01:03 PM	#5
chrs1961815 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Spring Grove, Illinois Posts: 1,371	Re: Rebuilding Distributor I think the body wears at the bottom and maybe the top a bit. The washers are there to prevent that. On the bottom I like to use steel washers as the fiber ones don't last nearly as long. __________________ "The more things change, the more they stay the same."

09-20-2021, 07:46 AM	#6
John Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Richmond, VA Posts: 189	Re: Rebuilding Distributor Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I do something similar to Jim. I find that the fiber washer/steel washer combo is too thick for most distributors. I fit the shaft by facing the coupling in a lathe for proper hole alignment. If just a small amount removed is needed, the fiber washer can be sanded down instead. John

09-21-2021, 10:49 AM	#7
HalcyonDays Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Maine Posts: 224	Re: Rebuilding Distributor Good advice from all. I will grind a little off the coupler and be good. Thanks again