1936 Ford Rear Tube Shocks Conversion

[Bursonaw]

I am looking to upgrade to tube shocks for my 1936 Ford rear end. I have seen bolt on kits for the front axle, however I cannot find anything for the 36 rear axle. Any suggestions or pictures of a tube shock conversion specifically on 35 or 36 rear axle?

[blucar]

Today might be your lucky day.. I installed tube shocks to the rear of my '36 Ford coupe in 1955 when I changed my car from an original Columbia to a 47-48 Columbia. I used the '47-48 axle tubes and axles with the '47-48 Columbia. I used the original '36 center section and torque tube. The 48 Fords had tube shocks utilizing a bracket that bolted to the backside of the backing plates and a mount attached to the rear cross member. The '48's also had a rear sway bar that I installed on my car.
The '47-48 rear axles are two inches wider than the '36, however, an additional inch on each side is not a big deal, the tires move outward in the fender well which is hardly noticeable.
I used '39 drums on the car with '36 wheels hub caps. Attached is a couple of pix showing the Columbia differential under my car. Standard '47-48 axle tubes/axles could be used in lieu of the Columbia. The '36 radius bars won't work, '37's will have to be used, they will bolt to the backing plates and attach to the torque tube using a longer bolt and a 3/4 spacer on each side to slightly spread the radius bars to line up the holes with the mount.

[CaliforniaBorn36]

This kit is available in the swap meet section and might be just what you are looking for. Search for purehotrods

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=95627

Please post back and let us know how you end up doing this conversion.

[woodiewagon46]

Try Chassis Engineering, 319-643-2655.

[flathead 53]

There is a company called pure hot rods , they make the brackets for model A to 1948 ford . I am using them on my 40 coupe with monroe shocks they are great $119.00

[d.conrad]

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Here's what I did. Shocks are '50 Plymouth fronts. Top is fastened to the cross member with a shock bolt and the bottom is fastened to the radius rod with another shock bolt.

[Talkwrench]

Here's a Pete & Jakes weld on kit on my 35 pickup

[Talkwrench]

Originally Posted by d.conrad

Here's what I did. Shocks are '50 Plymouth fronts. Top is fastened to the cross member with a shock bolt and the bottom is fastened to the radius rod with another shock bolt.

Like it..

[Bursonaw]

Originally Posted by d.conrad

Here's what I did. Shocks are '50 Plymouth fronts. Top is fastened to the cross member with a shock bolt and the bottom is fastened to the radius rod with another shock bolt.

Looks like a great solution as the radius rods create an obstruction issues for 35 & 36 rear ends. I see that you also have a rear sway bar installed. Can you elaborate on what you did there as well. Thanks for you response.

Regards

Tony


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[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by d.conrad

Here's what I did. Shocks are '50 Plymouth fronts. Top is fastened to the cross member with a shock bolt and the bottom is fastened to the radius rod with another shock bolt.

It's just hard to beat the K.I.S.S. system. That is simplicity on steroids! DD

[1932 V8]

Just to let everyone know, the 35/36 rear radius rods are the issue with rear shocks as they interfere with most all the shock mount kits . Both Blucar & Talkwrench are showing 37 and later rear ends so that won't help. I doubt someone will change their whole rear end for new shocks. Also, CaliforniaBorn36 showed a good kit and Flathead53 mentioned the same kit but again, it will not work with a 35/36 rear because of the radius rod interference. WoodieWagon46 , Chassis Engineering does not make a rear kit for 35/36 with stock radius rods.
D.conrad shows a good solution and I like the idea.I would like to know what the bracket is that is used on the rear radius rod as it looks like a piece of strap that is bent or maybe a piece of angle cut down. It is not very easy to see but we do get the idea and it's a good one.
I know they made a kit in the 70's/80's I think ? that sandwiched the radius rods in front of the rear end with 2 brackets and that created the lower mount.
The upper mount is the easy part on a 35/36 as it is the same as most and can be bolted to the rear cross member or the frame. Maybe someone will show other solutions for 35/36 rear ends.

[d.conrad]

The lower mount is 2 pieces of flat stock that are welded together at the correct angle and bolted to the radius rod-spring hanger. No welding on the rear end like the Pete and Jakes. Welding on the rear end housing can warp the housing. And it can be hard to weld on the car.

[d.conrad]

The sway bar is a clamp on unit from Chassis engineering. The ends had to be shortened about an inch to clear the radius rods. Most of the pieces I've gotten from them have to be modified to fit.

[Bursonaw]

Thank you everyone for your post. D. Conrad great idea looks like a simple solution.


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[Rusk]

Another way to go about it...3x2 tubing cut diagonally to make the rear end brackets with mounting holes for a standard shock bolt...



And some regular square tubing with one side removed and sleeved to support a regular bolt that goes through the rear crossmember...

[blucar]

Originally Posted by d.conrad

The sway bar is a clamp on unit from Chassis engineering. The ends had to be shortened about an inch to clear the radius rods. Most of the pieces I've gotten from them have to be modified to fit.

FYI.. The bar shown in the pix is not a "sway bar", it is an anti-roll stabilizer to control body roll on turns. A sway bar is mounted to the chassis and axle via solid links to maintain proper chassis alignment to the axles... The bar shown in my photo's is a sway/track bar. It is a stock '48 Ford bar.
If the person doing the shock modifications and has an electric welder and the skill to use it, then a number of components can be welded together to make shock mounts. However, if a stock looking appearance, with no cutting/welding is more to a persons ability, then bolt together Ford parts has merit.

[Bruce Lancaster]

When Ford did this in '47-48, they used a bolt/stud that went all the way through the rear crossmember for support. I don't really like the arrangements with a short bolt through one flange...that looks flexy to me, as it obviously has to take a lot of force...Rusk's upper setup addresses the need for support. The Ford way could be accomplished with just holes and no welding on the crossmember.

Edit..the Ford piece was a sort of stepped stud allowing the piece to be fully captured and tightened at both ends. That could be accomplished in a '36 crossmember by using a long through bolt through a piece of tubing in the actual "U" of the crossmember so that it could be fully tightened against both flanges.

[SofaKing]

A sway bar is mounted to the chassis and axle via solid links to maintain proper chassis alignment to the axles... The bar shown in my photo's is a sway/track bar. It is a stock '48 Ford bar.

There may be some variations in the use of the word "sway" bar. What you are describing as a sway bar, I know as a "panhard" bar or rod. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panhard_rod

The Plymouth shocks look a little short to me. I am curious that no one is discussing shock length to suspension travel and no one has given measurements for any of these adaptations.

[scooder]

But sofaking, the other one is called an anti roll bar, so a sway bar is what? Is it an anti roll bar or a panhard bar?
Martin.

[SofaKing]

Originally Posted by scooder

But sofaking, the other one is called an anti roll bar, so a sway bar is what? Is it an anti roll bar or a panhard bar?
Martin.

A rose by any other name.... in my vocabulary, a "sway bar" is an "anti-roll bar". A hood or bonnet, flashlight or torch, sparkplug or candle, wrench or spanner, we have the luxury of flexibility.
I'd still rather know how long are those Plymouth shocks? I think I have about 5.5" between axel and bump-stop. Perhaps its the pictures but it looks like they only have about 5-6 inches travel in total, not enough for compression and rebound without becoming a limit themselves.

[Kerk]

I have a collection of shock conversion mounts but am not sure what they except for a pair of 35/36 fronts that are labeled and appear to bolt in to original shock mount holes. Wish I could post Pictures as someone could help me identify what they fit. Any one have Pictures of this type of mounts? kerk

[scooder]

Yes we do have lots of flexibility in the English language, and it's all the best for it.
I asked about sway bar as its not used over here, it's anti roll bar and panhard bar, so wondered which it was.
Spark plug or candle, not heard that one.
Sorry can't help in the length of them shocks, they look fairly short though.
Martin.

[J Witt]

For what it's worth, here are some pix of the rear shock installation on my '36 phaeton. I have no idea who did this in the chain of owners, or who made the mounts, but it all works pretty well. The shock is a Gabriel. Note the angle on the bottom bolt, the bracket has a stamped twist right in the bottom mounting ear to make the bottom fit the brake backing plate.

Looks to me like the brake pull rod has been rubbing on the shock and has been bent a little for clearance. I'll have to have the wheel off and get a closer look at that.

John

Update: The Gabriel tech guy says it's an obsolete shock, but he should be able to xref to a current number. I'll have to get the shock off the car and measure it to get the total travel.

[41Joe]

About 20 years ago when I had my 41 Merc, I had called Speedway Motors and they made a special shackle with the mount for the shock. Currently they have this setup for the 2" spring, they special made one for the 2-1/4" spring. Worked good, clean and simple.

[1932 V8]

JWitt, I believe those are the same mounts I mentioned earlier so thanks for the pictures. I believe those were a kit in the 70's ? 80's ? the past that were offered. I have the same exact setup and a friend has another identical set. They are very simple but they seem to work well . On the inside of the plates there will be raised areas that go into the indent of the radius rod and keep it from twisting. Then the bolts just keep it clamped. I will see if I can dig mine up and take a few pics.

[Kurt in NJ]

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Originally Posted by J Witt

For what it's worth, here are some pix of the rear shock installation on my '36 phaeton. I have no idea who did this in the chain of owners, or who made the mounts, but it all works pretty well. The shock is a Gabriel. Note the angle on the bottom bolt, the bracket has a stamped twist right in the bottom mounting ear to make the bottom fit the brake backing plate.

Looks to me like the brake pull rod has been rubbing on the shock and has been bent a little for clearance. I'll have to have the wheel off and get a closer look at that.

John

Update: The Gabriel tech guy says it's an obsolete shock, but he should be able to xref to a current number. I'll have to get the shock off the car and measure it to get the total travel.

in your last picture showing the top mount the red ring of rust dust around it tells me that there is movement in that mounting

[J Witt]

You are absolutely right. Found another rattle with that loose mount. Fixed now, but that nut inside the frame was a woolly booger to get a socket on.

[Bruce Lancaster]

That's what I'm talking about in post 17...this is going to move, either by loosening or by flexing the flange. Replace it with a through bolt, using a piece of tube spanning the U so that it can be tightened properly.

[J Witt]

A further update, thanks to J. Murrill. The shock P/N for the '36 is a Gabriel 82007, same as for late 40s Ford cars. They are 1 3/16 bore, eye ends, 11 1/4 inches collapsed, 18 1/4 extended. The pins through the ends are 1/2".

John

[Bursonaw]

This year I had to pull the rear end to replace a clutch. While the rear was out I finally was able to upgrade to rear tube shocks for my 36 Ford. I have been thinking about this for the last two years when I originally made this post. Special thanks to “D. Conrad” for his post, as it was the inspiration for my project.

I made up some lower brackets out of 1/4 steal and pre-drilled them before I had them welded up. I matched drilled the rear wishbone arms, but some issues drilling them on my drill press so I had a local friend use his Bridgeport and an end mill to drill the holes.

I used the shocks from SoCal speed-shop. When I went to mount the top of shocks I found that the dust covers hit the frame. I had too grind the lip of the rear crossmember to make clearance for the shock. If I had used shocks without the dust covers I would have not had to grind the frame.

In the end, I think the install looks great and could have been done at the factory. I’m looking forward to driving the car soon.

In my research there are no bolt on rear kits currently available for 35-36 Ford rear ends. I thought this was the best solution without welding to the axle housings.

Hope this helps someone else looking to do the same upgrade.










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