Flathead one piece front oil seal

[busmania]

On an early block (40), do you not install the metal sleeve that comes with the 1 piece seal? I went to install my pulley and it doesn’t go far enough because I installed the metal sleeve. Now that I’m digging a little deeper, is the metal sleeve just for later blocks? See photos.

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[tubman]

I bought a "one piece seal" from Speedway for my last build. After looking it over and reading and re-reading the instructions, it went in the "round file". A properly installed rope seal will work just fine.

[busmania]

Graphite or the white actual rope? And then just no metal sleeve right?

Also, in my box of parts that came back from machine shop there was a steel round metal sleeve thing with grooves in it in the box of parts. I figured the piece that came with the one piece front seal replaced this part. Where does that go? Or is it later only engines? I left two cranks with the machine shop, a 40 crank and a merc 4” crank which is what I’m using. Do I not use the metal sleeve with my 40 pulley?

[v8fordman]

You don’t install the sleeve. It is for replacement on the later 8BA engines. You do have to make sure you have a true and smooth surface on your pulley.

[busmania]

Originally Posted by v8fordman

You don’t install the sleeve. It is for replacement on the later 8BA engines. You do have to make sure you have a true and smooth surface on your pulley.

Apart it comes (again). Thanks!

[tubman]

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Mine was an 8BA. I have no experience with the earlier engines. I used the white rope seal.

[37 truck]

We used the one piece seal, but used a thin redi sleave pressed over the pully sleave to eliminate the spiral groove.

[busmania]

I got it apart but have not put it back together because I’m having a hard time comprehending something. Does the pulley just ride and spin inside the rubber seal? If so, how does it not burn up and melt the seal when it’s spinning that fast? It seems pretty tight. I have both a rope seal set and one piece I can go back with.

[38 coupe]

The earlier pulleys include the part the rope seal runs against. The later pulleys do not include that, it is a separate part.

The 4" crank you dropped off would have had the separate part for the seal to run against.
The 40 crank you dropped off would not have had the separate part.


I can't advise on the modern seal, I use the rope and have had no issues. If you use the rope either soak the seal before installing it or smear a lot of grease on it. You don't want a dry rope seal on first start up.

[flatjack9]

The pulley spins in the seal. No problem. Be sure your pulley does not have a groove worn in it. I've used this seal on all my builds for many years.

[busmania]

Thanks. So it just rides like this on the pulley? First photo. Should I sand the paint off my pulley here?

Also, which side towards block? The part of the seal that rides the pulley is off center slightly. Shallow side or longer side toward block?

Still may use rope seal. Undecided.

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[flatjack9]

Yes, sand the paint off. The raised side of the seal should face the block.

[Bob C]

I polished my pulley with 1500 grit wet or dry where the seal rides.

[tubman]

Hmmm. The one I got frm Speedway didn't look like this. (Of course, that was 20 years ago). Seeing this, please disregard my previous comments.

[busmania]

There are two styles. I bought both (by accident) and used the type with the removable inside ring the first time. The one in the photos above the inner ring is not removable it would appear. Wondering if I should caulk the inside of the ring like I’ve seen in videos (of the one with the removable ring).

[Bob C]

This is what came with mine.


"Modern Front Engine Seal- This radial lip nitrile oil seal is made to fit in the stock timing gear cover and the oil pan to seal the front of the crankshaft. Simply silicone it in the engine, then install the crankshaft pulley. Pulley shaft MUST be polished to a shiny smooth finish. Fits Model A , Model B, and all flathead V8 Engines. No machining required."

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Bob C

This is what came with mine.


"Modern Front Engine Seal- This radial lip nitrile oil seal is made to fit in the stock timing gear cover and the oil pan to seal the front of the crankshaft. Simply silicone it in the engine, then install the crankshaft pulley. Pulley shaft MUST be polished to a shiny smooth finish. Fits Model A , Model B, and all flathead V8 Engines. No machining required."

[Pete]

It is unlikely this info will ever be needed by anyone on this forum but if you build a flathead Ford V8 all out race engine, a smooth surface like a Speedi Sleeve or home made sleeve needs to be used and the one piece seal installed backward. This is because of the high vacuum in the crankcase.

[38 coupe]

Pete, thanks for that bit of information. I have no intention of ever building a flathead Ford V8 for all out power, but I do enjoy learning the small changes that make a difference when going all out.

[RKS.PA]

Originally Posted by 37 truck

We used the one piece seal, but used a thin redi sleave pressed over the pully sleave to eliminate the spiral groove.

Had success with the stainless redi sleeve on both of the 59AB's I rebuilt. No leaks in either after lots of miles!! Really like the one piece front seal.