|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2024
Posts: 6
|
![]()
1. Can I replace a wheel stud with a modern spline type wheel stud?
2. can I drive the existing stud out with a hammer. Probably place something behind to provide support. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 3,470
|
![]()
The studs are riveted into the drum and have a shoulder that prevents hammering / pushing them out. There is a tool to cutaway the shoulder.
__________________
Bob Bidonde |
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clinton,WA/Whidbey Island
Posts: 4,105
|
![]()
Big Press!!!
__________________
www.whidbeymodelaclub.com |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 5,046
|
![]()
It's called a hole saw.
__________________
If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 7,033
|
![]()
...and hole saw and someone who has done it before. Ask at your local club for recommendations. Put your general location in your profile and you may get recommendations.
Charlie Stephens Last edited by Charlie Stephens; 03-01-2024 at 10:54 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 16,436
|
![]() Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 8,754
|
![]()
Here's a link to Vince's site on removing and swaging wheel studs.
https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/swaging.htm |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,963
|
![]()
A machine shop might be a good choice to get this done. Maybe one that works on big trucks.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 1,077
|
![]() Quote:
You can set up a jig and drill out the head of the stud from inside of the drum (back of the hub), but unless you are centered exactly on the center of the stud you will enlarge the hole in the hub, also rendering the hub useless.
__________________
JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stuart Florida
Posts: 149
|
![]()
Your location might help solve your problem. It is not the kind of job just anyone can do without the proper tools and experience.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kaukauna, Wisconsin
Posts: 394
|
![]() Quote:
I designed a new swagging tool similar to the one shown in the KR Wilson Catalog. that tool is not a complete circle. If you will observe that page it shows that a large hammer was used for swagging the studs. The tool is not a complete circle like the ones that the vendors sell. My swagging tool is also hardened. After the initial swagging, I turn the tool 90 degrees and swage the stud again. My press is a 20 ton and I have replaced over 100 studs at this time and none have been loose. I'm sure that there will be a few replies to this post, but my method works. I am a retired Mechanical Engineer and also have access to my brothers machine shop and have made most of the tools available from the vendors. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 64
|
![]()
Unless your hub is known to be true, make sure a check is done. I just did two new cast drums on hubs from a rear I have around. I think it is a bad repro hub. The taper doesn't appear to be concentric to the hub's bearing race.
D |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stuart Florida
Posts: 149
|
![]()
I think there is a some of bad information here.
Jimczeb wants to replace one stud in a hub and drum assembly. If a hole saw is used he will destroy the drum for future swedging. No mention has been made as if he is working on a steel drum or a cast iron drum. The stud bolt for a steel drum has a shorter shank than the stud bolt for a cast iron drum. To remove the inferior stud without destroying the hub and drum assembly, it must be drilled out precisely so the hub/drum is not destroyed. I would clamp the hub/drum on a milling table and drill it carefully in steps. I would use end mills for this procedure. I hope I did not offend anyone with my comments. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Lincoln
Posts: 3,131
|
![]()
Fhane your experience and knowledge and insight is wanted and needed here !
__________________
Don't force it with a little hammer tap, tap, tap get a bigger hammer tap done |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 1,410
|
![]()
I don’t see how a light touch with a hole saw to cut away the swaging ruins the hub. Done right, none of the hub or drum is touched.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stuart Florida
Posts: 149
|
![]()
Bruce you may be right, but here is my experience. The hole in the drum is tapered. Wide at the top, narrow at the bottom. The hole saws that I am familiar with are straight. The drum thickness is maybe around 3/16” give or take. A very thin hole saw would cut maybe just right at the very top of the swedge, but as you go down you would most likely cut into the taper in the drum. Remember in this case we are replacing a stud in an existing drum/hub assembly.
The brand name of the most popular swedge cutter is made by Goodson tools. It has carbide teeth, great for removing studs, but will destroy the drum for future use. Their web site may have directions for its use and price. By carefully drilling and then milling the stud from the center out, the stud can be removed. A drill doesn’t drill a round hole, while an end mill in a milling machine will cut a round hole if the hub/drum is mounted properly. Even then I normally use a pick to remove any excess stud material I have found no matter how you remove a rear stud you will most likely find a deformed hole in the hub by a couple of thousands. This could happen during the original swedging of the stud or the removal. I have never figured this one out. There are ways to correct this after removal of the stud. Also, I far as know no one has manufactured a rear stud properly. Check your studs, they seem to be double stamped. Us guys with bad eyes use our fingernail to feel the edge. The double stamp can be ground off or removed properly in a lathe. Thanks Big Hammer for the undeserved compliment. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stuart Florida
Posts: 149
|
![]()
Another thing to understand when removing studs. When you cut the drum with a hole saw or the Goodson Stud Cutter the stud bolt of a properly swedge bolt will not fall out of the hub. The stud should have swelled enough, when originally swedged to the hub, and will requirer a slight press to remove it from the hub.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#18 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 1,410
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: shirley ny
Posts: 992
|
![]()
a 5/8 hole saw works just a light touch
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 5,046
|
![]()
Here's an older thread w/a bit more info.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...29#post2294929 OOPS, that didn't come out right, try this one: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...highlight=stud
__________________
If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn! Last edited by katy; 03-02-2024 at 02:04 PM. Reason: Addition |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|