Changing Points

[30-9]

Another NewBee question: 39 stock coupe

I had my coil rebuilt by Skip and he checked the condenser and said it's fine.

My car is still difficult to start. So, since I have never checked the points I'm thinking that would be the next logical step.
(BTW - car runs just fine after it does start)

I have never removed the crab distributor. I've read that you can't screw it up as it can only go in one way. Do I need to take the coil off first?

Can someone provide me steps to replace the points? Any tricks?

Thanks in advance.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

The fixed position of the helmet distributor makes the points the timing adjustment.
The drivers side controls the spark timing by being adjusted correctly.
You can remove the distributor and verify the adjustment on the bench , however i feel thats pretty difficult to get set up.
I would suggest a tear down , degreaseing of all parts and set up on a machine for the perfect set up........

[Displayman]

Just replaced points in our 47 Merc. with crab style distributor cap.
We disconnected all wires from cap. Making notations as we removed them.
We unsnapped clip on each side of cap and removed it. Then we removed the rotor, fan belt and fan to allow some working room and visibility using a mirror.
I had never replaced dual points before this.There are instructions found in the search section. There is a "C" shaped wire holding the distributor top on. It is a little difficult to pry out, I used a small pick. The whole piece will come out.
We removed each set of points without disturbing the silver adjusting screw on each set. We assumed that the points were properly set when they were installed before.
We just installed the new points, placed unit back onto distributor base, replaced rotor,cap, and wires in their proper postions on the distrubutor cap. We then started the engine without the fan and belt to see how she ran. Sounded great! Reinstalled belt and fan. Test drove car. AWESOME!. Best it has ever ran. Take your time, take pics, take notes, not that big a deal. Just my 2 cents.
Good luck,
Bob

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by Displayman

Just replaced points in our 47 Merc. with crab style distributor cap.
We disconnected all wires from cap. Making notations as we removed them.
We unsnapped clip on each side of cap and removed it. Then we removed the rotor, fan belt and fan to allow some working room and visibility using a mirror.
I had never replaced dual points before this.There are instructions found in the search section. There is a "C" shaped wire holding the distributor top on. It is a little difficult to pry out, I used a small pick. The whole piece will come out.
We removed each set of points without disturbing the silver adjusting screw on each set. We assumed that the points were properly set when they were installed before.
We just installed the new points, placed unit back onto distributor base, replaced rotor,cap, and wires in their proper postions on the distrubutor cap. We then started the engine without the fan and belt to see how she ran. Sounded great! Reinstalled belt and fan. Test drove car. AWESOME!. Best it has ever ran. Take your time, take pics, take notes, not that big a deal. Just my 2 cents.
Good luck,
Bob

After doing hundreds of these units and testing on a machine for exact adjustment , i guess i am just speach-less!!!!!!!!!
I had convinced myself i needed the machine and adjustment time.

Glad your luck was working that day.....

[Bruce Lancaster]

But...Displayman...you would save some hours and have a happier back if you took it off!
Here's all there is...for Crab or its '46-8 cousin...
Pop off cap to distrib clips, pull cap forward a bit. leave it dangling on the wires unless you also aim to fix up said cap and wires. Especially on '46-8, probably not necessary with crab, get fingers in between cap and distributor and flip off the rotor (note which way it pointed as an aid for reinstallation).
Remove the two 1/2" headed bolts holding the thing to engine (the second time you do this you will find you can do it braille in very quick time), remove the 11/32 nut or funny slotted original nut for primary wire (you can actually deal with this wire from either end) and pop distributor off engine.
It slides out from behind cap and wiggles through the spaces in fan belting, and now you can point and time to your heart's content anyway you want in the comfort of your home.
Once done, distributor slides back in there, add rotor and turn it to general direction it was in before, wiggle it a bit til tab A goes into slot B. Add 2 bolts and nut for wire, pop cap back on, done.
It seems slightly fumbly the first time, once you know where everything is it is VERY quick and best done mostly by touch. Huge savings in time and disassembly, no need to destroy your back working way down there.

[JM 35 Sedan]

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As usual Bruce gives you good advice. Follow what he said.

When reading your initial post, you say "39 stock coupe". If the engine is all stock, it would have a helmet distributor instead of a crab distributor. A coil rebuilt by Ship is the way to go, but more than likely those points that were in the distributor needed attention/replacement as well. It has always been easier for me to remove these distributors and do the work on my bench. The key to getting the distributor correctly reinstalled is to get the off center tang on the back of the distributor shaft into the off center slot on the front of the cam. The easiest way I have found to do this is to make up alignment studs that temporarily screw into the mounting holes on the timing gear cover. Start the distributor onto these studs and turn the rotor by hand until the off center tang and slot engage. Then remove the studs one at a time and replace with bolts. Once you have done this several times, you could probably do it blindfolded .

[zzlegend]

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

But...Displayman...you would save some hours and have a happier back if you took it off!
Here's all there is...for Crab or its '46-8 cousin...
Pop off cap to distrib clips, pull cap forward a bit. leave it dangling on the wires unless you also aim to fix up said cap and wires. Especially on '46-8, probably not necessary with crab, get fingers in between cap and distributor and flip off the rotor (note which way it pointed as an aid for reinstallation).
Remove the two 1/2" headed bolts holding the thing to engine (the second time you do this you will find you can do it braille in very quick time), remove the 11/32 nut or funny slotted original nut for primary wire (you can actually deal with this wire from either end) and pop distributor off engine.
It slides out from behind cap and wiggles through the spaces in fan belting, and now you can point and time to your heart's content anyway you want in the comfort of your home.
Once done, distributor slides back in there, add rotor and turn it to general direction it was in before, wiggle it a bit til tab A goes into slot B. Add 2 bolts and nut for wire, pop cap back on, done.
It seems slightly fumbly the first time, once you know where everything is it is VERY quick and best done mostly by touch. Huge savings in time and disassembly, no need to destroy your back working way down there.

Exactly how I do it. Easy.

[30-9]

Yes it is a stock 39 - I said newbee - I thought they called it crab - I have two caps on either side of distro holding the spark plug wires.

Is it the same procedure? and can I use a feeler gauge to gap the points?

[Bruce Lancaster]

Somewhat harder to remove from engine because of bulk...you can leave the caps and wires dangling to save some effort. Remember at final setting of points and timing you must have the coil in place, because the stiff spring that makes contact is capable of shifting the point plate slightly. You may want a couple sizes of sideways Z type screwdrivers.

[30-9]

Bruce thanks

How are the spark plug wires attched to Inner Distributor Cap? Are they just pushed into the hole - can the be easily removed and placed back im? Does order matter?

[Bruce Lancaster]

Order matters!!
They all pass through outer cap, plug into 4 holes in each inner.
Remove distributor first, leaving caps dangling on wires, then remove 2 bolts on each side of intake to lift off the 2 sets of wires and conduits...
The Van Pelt site has a lot of good information posted online. Right now, you want this page:

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...48_221-239.htm

[30-9]

Excellent URL I book-marked it- TYVM

I will mark the wires to insure proper replacement - do they just pull out and then can I push back in to reuse? Or once out that's it?

I want to use a file on the inner cap metal - they seem to have a lot of carbon. Or should I just use nail file and do in place?

[Bruce Lancaster]

They pull and push...link gives order. As I said, if there's no reason to disassemble them don't, just unbolt conduits from manifold and handle them as units. Go for minimum metal removal...just clean up the contacts facing rotor.

[30-9]

Thanks again - have gr8 day.

[jim galli]

Trying to get a first start after 50 years on my new 2 me '38 V8-60, about the 4rth time the d@m thing went in and out, I said to myself, it'll only take 3 minutes to get this radiator thingy out of the way. And another minute and a half to get the fan thingy out of the way. Well spent time, both! I'm also a newbie to V8's. Not a big fan of the divers helmet distributors - yet. Perhaps the available space issues are aggravated on the tiny motors?

[Lawson Cox]

To save knuckles and radiator fins, place piece of cardboard between radiator and distributor (and your hands ).

[4dFord/SC]

IMHO, you will find an old Motors Auto Repair Manual to be an invaluable asset in working on your car. There's one on eB*y now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1935-1952-Mo...04d53a&vxp=mtr