Holley 94 Rebuild - Secondary Carb

[Ziggster]

Yep. Slowly plugging away. Typical situation for me during my whole speedster build. To add to the craziness, I’ve been sanding/cleaning/polishing each and every screw. I used the 6 new ones on the one carb. Will also be using new 1/4” - 28 hex head bolts on the upside down screw location between the base and main body, so that the base can remain on the intake during servicing.

[Ziggster]

The brkt that started all this nonsense. Was a tight fit. The holes are not exactly aligned with those on the carb. Thought it might come with some lock washers, but I guess they would damage to the surface.
Also had the air horn on/off around 3 times. Forgot to install the choke plate first, then installed it, then realized the shaft was out of “phase” by 180. In all that the paint got buggered up with all the handling. First time off was because I discovered the check-ball from the accelerator well on the shop towel. Thought for sure it couldn’t have fallen out past the seal, but decided to check anyways. Of course, it was still in there so will have to check thd other carb.

[Ziggster]

Well, it’s finally “done”. Will do some small paint-up in the coming days. Still have to revise the screws holding down the air cleaners, and still have to fab up the fuel lines which was supposed to be today’s job.
I’m glad I went with Cast Iron Coat did the base. Sets it off a bit with some contrast with all the aluminum paint.

[Ziggster]

Just wanted to point out another difference between 94 parts. This has to do with that “extra” vacuum port on the main body. Because of that port, there is an extra passage in the body as well the base, so if you’re using that port, and rebuilding the carb, you need to be aware that you need the matching base with the extra port.

[tubman]

That looks great! Now, let's see how it works.

[Ziggster]

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Thanks! Yep. Will be a few months before I can wheel my speedster out from my workshop in my basement. Will have to wait for the snow to melt first. For sure I’ll make some vids, but here it’s running with the single carb back from Oct 2025.

https://youtube.com/shorts/upzCS6N6C...JWjy35Yz0HVF7P

[Ziggster]

Installed the fuel pump stand. Had to adjust the linkage to clear the fuel pump. Using those adapter fittings with the gasket as I could not get a seal with the ferrule/nut combo against the faces on the carb/fuel pump. Actually got 45 degree male flare fittings to seal on the fuel pump previously. Had one of those vintage adapter fittings on the carb previously to get it to seal with the ferrule and nut. Was a total nightmare getting everything to seal.

[Ziggster]

Forgot a pic of the vintage adapter.

[Ziggster]

Scrap pile of fuel lines. Hoping I can salvage something sufficient to make the new one. Will copper line to prototype one.

[Ziggster]

Copper was a no-go. Too soft and kinked right away, do grabbed a piece of the fuel line. Was going ok until I had to make the 90 degree bend to the primary carb. The fuel line originally had a 90 degree bend on the opposite direction, so I knew it might kink or even break. Well, it linked. So, going to see if I can find a small enough brass tee so I can use it as a joint for the secondary carb. That way I can still use the section going off of the fuel pump. Not sure if solder will work with this copper copper steel line. If not, hopefully I can braze it. Don’t have any such small tees in hand. Will see if they have any at the local hardware store. If not it’s a trip into town tomorrow. Got 5” - 6” of snow overnight. Car door (drivers) got stuck frozen as well to boot. I hate winter…

[Ziggster]

Did find this stuff. I’ll see what I can cob together, but will have to wait until Sunday.

[Ziggster]

I’m going to try this first. Will turn down the threads on the lathe if I can on the thru axis. Not sure how to turn down the tee threads yet. Will try solder first.

[tubman]

That would look real good if you got rid of the threaded portions. I wouldn't worry about how to join them. Copper, brass, and solder always got along good; just get a bit of good flux..

[Ziggster]

Yep. Had some time after supper today to work on the tee. Used hand files in the lathe on the two threaded sections along the long axis. As soon as I tried to use the cutter, the tee would pop out of the chuck as there is almost nothing to grab onto. For the other threaded section, I used my mini-pneumatic sander to get it to the root of the threads, then hand files, then sand paper.
Only thing left is to add a third set screw to the air cleaners and get rid of those chrome Allen socket hex head ones.

[Ziggster]

Got it all soldered up. Had to solder it in situ due to the loose fit and getting everything to line up properly. First joint seemed it didn’t want to accept the solder. The other had no issues. Took very little heat. Ended up taking a few attempts to get joints looking like they were fully surrounded/filled with solder. Seems there are no leaks.

[Scotty's 52 F3]

I just went through your thread and I'm learning things I didn't know about the Holley 94 so thanks for the very detailed post.

Back on page 5, post #95 where you were having trouble with the needle sticking, it looks like the float needle clip is missing. It wraps around the groove in the needle and helps it come back down and follow the float.

Maybe I just can't see it in the pics or maybe there are different versions of this carb as you have been pointing out. Just thought I'd mention it.

I'm looking forward to seeing this in action.

Scott in AZ.

[Ziggster]

Thanks! As a relative newb, I’ve had to learn everything from scratch, so like sharing what I’ve learned and done so that it might help others as well.
Interesting. I’ve never heard of this clip being installed before. A quick search, and AI says there is a clip just as mention to help pull the needle out. It also includes a link to this vid from Mike’s Carbureator, and he mentions the clip, but says it’s not necessary if the needle is upside down (pointing up). So, I’m guessing that at least in the Holley 94s, it’s not necessary. I’m still going to see if I can find it in my rebuild kit.

[Ziggster]

So, yet another trip to the fastener store in town. Picked up some brass fittings for the vacuum lines. One will go to my helmet distributor, and the other to a vintage vacuum gage. Also picked up some SS set screws to replace the SS Socket Head ones used to secure the air cleaners. These are almost invisible, but I’ll still need to add a third one to each cleaner assy. Got SS Button Head Socket Head screws to replace the SS Socket Head ones used on the throttle arms. Lastly, also used some SS set screws to replace the SS Socket Head screws used to lock the linkage rod. Unfortunately, despite having handfuls of Allen keys, I don’t have the correct size for these tiny set screws. Things I think cleaned up a but, and despite and the hardware still being SS, it’s a little more subtle IMHO.

[Ziggster]

More pics of the upgraded linkage. Also swapped out the arm on the primary carb shaft so now it’s a straight linkage setup. Will leave it like that for now. lol!

[Ziggster]

Picked up my vintage uni-ball flow meter/balancer yesterday. Also got the parts from Vintage Speed to setup the jets/PVs for either direct or progressive linkage. They sent the correct plugged PV this time.