Interest in new restoration project thread?

[Kube]

Good morning gentleman.

Life is finally settling back down in to my normal. My normal equates to working 18+ hours a day and loving it. Businesses, horses (eleven of them) writing my book and well, life, kinda gets in the way of restoration threads.
I'll start this thread with the hopeful understanding that these restorations are a hobby / passion for me. It takes me about twelve to fourteen months to complete a full restoration.
It can fairly be argued that there as many approaches to a restoration as there are projects. My approach is just one and there's little doubt not the best one by far. I continue to learn day after day and on occasion wonder how and why "I didn't think of that" much earlier in life.
Anyway, feel free to express advice, raise queries, heck, (positive) criticize.

As a bit of overlook, I tend to inspect the vehicle closely and take many photos prior to disassembly. As many of these as I've done, I forget stuff. Oh, this is #17 - all were either '39 or '40 Fords with the exception of two Buicks, a '31 and a '38 (sorry guys).
I then disassemble the car down to the very last nut and bolt. I don't tend to label and bag as much as I used to as I for the most part know exactly "what bolt goes where".

The next step is to take a written inventory of any and all parts I feel I may need for the completion of the project. I use as few reproduction parts as possible but some (repop) parts I find necessary and / or prudent to utilize.
I promptly seek and purchase all pieces I think I may need. I don't care to be held up simply because I can't locate a certain required piece on any day.

I do tend to work on a number of assemblies simultaneously. Why? Well, I tend to get "burned out" if I spend countless hours / days working on (example) on fender.
I tend to complete the chassis first as heck, it's the foundation of all to come afterward.

While finishing the frame, I will also finish each subassembly. As an example, the brake backing plates will be fully restored and assembled. Another example? The brake / clutch pedal assembly will be fully restored. All of these subassemblies will have their respective fasteners placed with them in storage. And yes, I keep a very accurate inventory of what part is in what box and on what shelf.
I believe you can picture how a chassis comes together easily for me. It so much fun (yeah, a sickness) to be able to work hours upon hours assembling the chassis with no interruptions as all the required pieces are finished, in a box, awaiting installation. Another benefit of this approach is when the chassis is assembled, it is all very fresh and pristine at the same moment.
Okay, thanks for putting up with me thus far.
Oh, I am 100% certain my restorations are not for everyone. They are without argument "over restored". However, only in the fit and finish are they over restored.
Correct? I will discuss with anyone - anything, that they may feel is incorrect. Like I'd mentioned earlier, I continue to learn.

[Kube]

Here's a couple of phots of the car I'd received. Upon initial inspection, it appeared to be beautiful. Isn't that often the case upon initial inspections?

[Kube]

Then I disassemble the entire car. Many of the small pieces get media blasted ASAP. Some will get powder finished, many more will be painted.
The body, fenders, doors, etc. get sent out for plastic media blasting. Why?
Plastic will not warp any sheet metal surface and unlike acid dipping, it will not come back to haunt you years later.
Also, unlike acid dipping, heavy rust will not be removed with plastic beads. This is of no concern to me as I repair / replace and compromised sheet metal.
The frame will get sand blasted - quite aggressively.

[19Fordy]

Thanks for posting the start of your new restoration.It will be a great documentation for the owner as well as other interested folks. The time and effort you take to do this is much appreciated. Be sure and take photos of "the small stuff" as that's often taken for granted as stuff folks already know. Will be following you. Love the way you lay the parts out so neatly for photos. I hope you will be able to feature this as part of your book. It would be a wonderful eye-opener. Thanks. Jim

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Thanks for posting the start of your new restoration.It will be a great documentation for the owner as well as other interested folks. The time and effort you take to do this is much appreciated. Be sure and take photos of "the small stuff" as that's often taken for granted as stuff folks already know. Will be following you. Love the way you lay the parts out so neatly for photos. I hope you will be able to feature this as part of your book. It would be a wonderful eye-opener. Thanks. Jim

Jim, The book will have zero in regard to restoration processes. My gosh man, it's been years of research to get this far on that (book) project. I can't imagine how much more time would be required to do a restoration phase. That sounds like a different book entirely. For someone else to do.
I do photograph most assemblies "before" and "after". I place them in a photo album side by side in an order leading up to the final end result.
I figure these will be my "coloring books" for when I am able to do little more than look at them and (hopefully) recall them
The horns depicted in the accompanying photos are from a '39 wagon I'd restored. The steering column from a '40 coupe.
If the cars are sold, a hard copy of the album is always included with the sale.

[Kube]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

As I'd said earlier, there always are "surprises" not seen upon initial inspection. This car was no different than any previously restored.
While the body shell, doors, hood, etc. are as beautiful as I'd thought, the floor, well, not so much.
I can't quite grasp what happened to necessitate the repair but I can tell you it was done poorly at best. My guess is it was done decades ago when a coupe like this had very little value.

[Kube]

I tend to be very methodical during the process of restoration. That method seemingly keeps me from having to do things twice.
I measure, then measure again, and again - whatever is necessary. I trial fit all parts before any finish is applied.
All of the factory welds are removed and will be replaced when appropriate.
I am using a reproduction tail pan as well as the rear most trunk floor. Both pieces are "okay" as delivered. Okay at best. Both took quite a bit of massaging to get to fit properly.
The center floor pan is not available as reproduction and even though this one was beat up, it will be beautiful once reinstalled.
Note the tool tray was very solid. Most of the authentic tar paper lining remained intact.
This car was hit from behind at some point in its life. What I am unable to determine is why the floor was damaged as it was. the rear quarters have zero damage and zero repairs. The tail pan and rear most trunk floor were both damaged fairly bad.
I gut tells me two distinct causes. Tail pan? Simple rear end type accident. Floor? Perhaps something very heavy was tossed in there? hey, it happens. I'd restored a '40 coupe about six years ago that was 100% rust and dent free. Beautiful car to start with. Trunk floor was dented so badly, sheet metal stretched... turns out the previous owner threw an engine block in the trunk!

[Flathead Youngin']

What a wonderful opportunity! For rookies, like myself, describe, for example, the frame process....






media blasting, filing , sanding, paint.....






Maybe I'm getting ahead of you. When I saw those horns, I was curious as to the steps of making them look so nice.






Thank you for your time, it's one thing to do a restore, it's another to take time and post about it all along the way...

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Flathead Youngin'

What a wonderful opportunity! For rookies, like myself, describe, for example, the frame process....media blasting, filing , sanding, paint.....
Thank you for your time, it's one thing to do a restore, it's another to take time and post about it all along the way...

Tomorrow is (gloss black) paint time on the frame. I am eager.

You'd asked about the process in regard to the frame...
I start by removing all components from it. Then I clean away all the grease, etc. Then it's sand blasted quite aggressively.
Once I am certain the frame is true, I begin to repair any bends, dings, etc. If there are "extra" holes that don't belong in a restored frame, those get welded shut and metal finished smooth.
This frame required one of the middle cross braces to be replaced. The replacement was riveted in as was authentic.
Then I prime and sand. I prepare my frames as I prepare hoods, fenders, etc. As most realize, the proper preparation is paramount to a beautiful finished result.
Then, I prime and sand again.
This was a rather nice frame to begin with. Very few pits and other than that damaged brace, little other repair work was required.

Tomorrow I will wipe this down with Pre-Cleano one more time and shoot...

[Mart]

Wow. Thanks for posting the story so far mike. This is an excellent subject. While your and my approaches to restoration are at polar opposites, I really appreciate the way you do what you do.

Mart.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Mart

Wow. Thanks for posting the story so far mike. This is an excellent subject. While your and my approaches to restoration are at polar opposites, I really appreciate the way you do what you do.

Mart.

What is your approach Mart?

[Mart]

Leave it alone as much as possible and just take care of any mechanical/safety issues. As I said in a previous post talking about over restoration: I said "I tend to under restore my heaps". Lol.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Mart

Leave it alone as much as possible and just take care of any mechanical/safety issues. As I said in a previous post talking about over restoration: I said "I tend to under restore my heaps". Lol.

You're funny! And probably a lot more (mentally) healthy
Me? I can't leave any of them alone. Every one must be perfect! No doubt, it's a bit of a sickness. I'm okay with that!

[Karl]

Originally Posted by Kube

You're funny! And probably a lot more (mentally) healthy
Me? I can't leave any of them alone. Every one must be perfect! No doubt, it's a bit of a sickness. I'm okay with that!

You guys Stateside are so lucky compared with Mart and I . You have a lot more access to correct parts than we do. In my case 12000 miles of shipping really whacks up the restoration costs. I have spend a lot of money making my cars look right but a fine points guy would spot many things wrong with all of them. For example on my Model A the generator looks correct but is 6 months younger than my car-Getting the correct generator out of the States is feasible but not economically viable when only one person in 10,000 here would identify it as correct.

The distance means that our cars often don't follow the accepted time lines any way. My 1934 Fordor was registered in New Zealand In April 1934 but was probably assembled Stateside in Jan 1934 It has a combination of 33 and 34 Parts on it from new.

Due to our isolation and hence cost of new parts our cars have often been kept going with Farmers fixes over the years rather than expensive genuine parts . This again complicates restoration.

For the above reasons Fine point judging doesn't really exist over here. I wish it did -but then I'd be to scared to drive them

In short do you need any aging car mad Doctors in the States LOL !

[Kube]

[QUOTE=Karl;1820079]You guys Stateside are so lucky compared with Mart and I . You have a lot more access to correct parts than we do. In my case 12000 miles of shipping really whacks up the restoration costs. I have spend a lot of money making my cars look right but a fine points guy would spot many things wrong with all of them. For example on my Model A the generator looks correct but is 6 months younger than my car-Getting the correct generator out of the States is feasible but not economically viable when only one person in 10,000 here would identify it as correct.


Karl, I have often admired you guys from across the great pond. I've shipped a lot of parts in your direction and as you'd stated, the shipping costs are insane.
I hope you are able to continue enjoying your hobby.

[deuce_roadster]

Mike, since you have already done many of these, you probably already have enough pictures for you to assemble a "restoration" book of your own for sale. All you would need to do is minimal text for your steps and of course the sequence. No need to go into detail how to shrink metal, weld, wet sand, paint etc. Would be easy after you have decided you have restored enough cars.
Thanks for sharing your procedures as they can be relevant to any restoration, even brand X!

[Kube]

I am currently preparing the frame for paint. Although a super nice frame - very straight and only a few pits, it did have the typical damage to a middle cross member.
I do repair all dings, waves, pits, etc. Then prime, wet sand and shoot single stage gloss black.

[Don Rogers]

Mike, I'm glad that you are making a distinction between a "how to restore" book and a "how did Henry make them" book. There are a lot of "how to restore" books and few "what was correct" books. Your efforts on behalf of a "factory correct" 1940 Ford are certainly appreciated. Once again, if you need any help putting the book together, let me know.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Don Rogers

Mike, I'm glad that you are making a distinction between a "how to restore" book and a "how did Henry make them" book. There are a lot of "how to restore" books and few "what was correct" books. Your efforts on behalf of a "factory correct" 1940 Ford are certainly appreciated. Once again, if you need any help putting the book together, let me know.

Don, I very much appreciate your kind offer. Lord knows you've earned my respect!

[40ford]

Kube,that looks almost like a dual exhaust cut-out some time long ago!I know my 40 had duals on it some time or another and the drivers side has been motified for exhaust.