Holley 94 Rebuild - Secondary Carb

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Some pics.

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Parts drying in front of the woodstove. Got a whole production line of things going on. JB Weld on those mating surfaces. Also patched holes in top body. Sanded down the on JB Weld plugged hole and added a bit more.

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Parts in various stages. Haha!

Close up of the throttle arms for the progressive linkage. Got the shaft collars locally.

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Close up of the adjustable arm for the throttle linkage. Not sure if I’ll need it, but got it anyways in case.

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Closeup if the Edmunds choke brkt. Seems fit/finish could be better. Looks like a “drill hole” mark on the inside radius near the bottom tip. Will for sure blend that in better.

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Also got these fuel inlet adapter fittings for the carbs and fuel pump. I have one original style one already installed on the engine carb/fuel pump setup. I had a massive headache with leaks at every carb/fuel pump fitting. It was a nightmare, so these fittings will ensure no more issues as they seal on the face with a gasket. These carb bodies just aren’t what they were new, and trying to get a good seal on an old flared surface that is likely pitted/corroded is unlikely.

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Hardware after two vinegar soaks. The last soak was only for a few hrs. Added some baking Soda to help. I think it worked pretty good. Will still witecwheel/ Rotoloc disc them. Have a few pieces in a forth soak now including the clusters. Clear coated some parts, and painted a few others. This is going to take a few days with lots still to do.

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Got both squirters unclogged finally after that brief 4th soak. One was clear after removing it, the other one took more persuading with the drill bits. That one is likely too damaged though from corrosion to be any real good. Thankfully, the other one is fine. I’m hoping the one on the unassembled body is good as well.

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Secondary carb body with JB Weld applied to mating surface. Had time to dry overnight, so will start sanding it down.

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After sanding starting with 180 grit and finishing with 220 grit. There seems to be a low spot near the “buldge”. Can’t feel any difference in height, so that JB Weld must have filled that low spot. The urge is to keep sanding, but I will leave it as is. The JB Weld definitely filled in all the pitting. It only took 5 mins of sanding to get to this point. Now will start the re-assembly with the cleaned out squirter and tall clusters.

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Squirter installed with needle that goes under it.

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Cleaned out the clusters. Still lots of crud in the larger passages at the top. Not sure if it’s from the walnut shells in my vibratory tumbler or crap accumulated over the years. Really need an ultrasonic cleaner for this type of stuff.

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Clusters installed with clamps/bridges?. There is a left and right side. They have a step which is used by the clamp/bridge to secure them. So, the step must point inwards. Probably can’t install them the other way. Longer screws go with the small clamp/bridge towards the bowl.

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The idle tubes? are soaking in hot vinegar. Just want to make sure I get anything that is left inside out. What a damn process…

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Idle tubes installed. Fingers crossed.

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I realized the other day I forgot to install the Teflon washer when I initially installed the PV. Was about to re-install it, and noticed it has the dreaded radius which prevents the washer/gasket from sitting flush and sealing properly. The other PV I purchased for the primary carb has the radius machined off. Damn! I’m going to have to either put it my lathe, or just try my drill with a file.

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Couldn’t fit the PV in my cordless drill chuck as the the jaws were too recessed. Couldn’t really chuck into my lathe as it was asymmetrical (head side) with the 120 degree separation of the jaws, plus it would have been too close to the spinning chuck. So, found a nut that I could partially thread it into, and used that to chuck into the lathe. Used various files being careful to avoid the chuck and to not have it move in the chuck/nut. Even still there was a slight radius, so had to finish by hand. The fit between the base and the ID of the washer is incredibly tight.
Got it installed, then noticed it was preventing the base from seating properly. Was wondering WTH, then realized it protrudes more than the standard PV. WTH!? This is now useless!!!

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There doesn’t appear to be anything under that perforated “bump” so I will try to remove it somehow. Geeze…

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Oh yeah, pic of the McGuyver setup in my lathe. lol!

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Put it back in the lathe with the nut (incorrect thread), and got as far as I could before the PV would pop out from the nut. I figured this would happen at some point. Will now have to resort to cutting it off. Will try with a Diamond tip wheel on my Dremel.