Restrictor washer instead of t-stat

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by G.M.

It also is NOT INTENDED to increase the boiling point. G.M.

G.M. You need to re-read my post again. I did not say that it was INTENDED to increase the boiling point. Only that it does, in fact, increase the boiling point as anything that increases pressure does. It may not be the prime purpose of the valve but it does, in fact, have that result. I also didn't add that it adds a nice shiny little decoration to the end of the overflow tube. It may not be INTENDED for that but it does, in fact, have that result. Lighten up.

[Mr 42]

Originally Posted by G.M.

Mr 42 you need to post specific temperature readings. Just a statement "without problem" don't say much. A problem to some may be different from a problem to others. If the coolant temperature on a 95 degree day gets in the 190 plus range driving and you get in heavy stop and go traffic it don't take long to get over 200. I like a larger safty margin. To a lot of people it's not a problem until it boils over.This is how these cars have been operated on the large part for over 60 years. G.M.

I don't need to post anything if i dont want to.
I dont have any gauges in my car, so i cant give you any specifics.
That don't mean my opinion/experience is without value.

And the earlier cars i had was the original tube type, and that is not good enough in your book if i understand you right.

It was you that stated the modern thermostats did not work.
Just for the record they work in Sweden.

If i add a gauge can you specify heavy stop and go traffic?
So i can do some proper testing, it will take four months before you get the answer since we have winter now.

Ive driven flatheads the last 30 years , with modern thermostats, always a fresh radiotor and new waterpumps, and Timing set to proper values, without any overheating/boiling problems.


The works for me....:-)

[G.M.]

Driving in warm temperatures much over 75 degrees with any modern thermostats I have ever seen that fits 32 to 48 Fords will cause higher operating temperatures. You might as well use washers with about a 3/4" hole because that is how a modern thermostat will work in warmer temperatures. It will open at say the 170 degree rateing of the stat and do NOTHING after it opens, it will just stay full open all the time and act like a washer or restictor the size of the stats opening.The stats have nothing to do with cooling they only control the minimum temperature. In cold temperatures stats are required to bring the coolant temperature up to the stat rateing of say 170. If the coolant drops below 170 the stats will close until the coolant gets above 170 and keep cycling to hold close to 170. In the winter with cold ambiant temperatures and even a higher wind chill factor of the forced air the restriction of the thermost flow allows enough coolant to handle cooling under the cold ouside conditions. In the summer they open and stay open and the temperature only go's up. Stay cool. G.M.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by G.M.

Driving in warm temperatures much over 75 degrees with any modern thermostats I have ever seen that fits 32 to 48 Fords will cause higher operating temperatures

Just trying to understand your point. Are you suggesting no thermostats in the summer? No thermostats at all? Just against "modern" thermostats making some distinction between them and stock ones? Or what?

[G.M.]

Any modern thermostats in 32 to 48 Fords in temperatures above 80 will cause the engine to run hot because of the restricted water flow caused by the restricted small opening in those starts. The hotter the outside temperature the hotter the engine with restrictors or stats. No stats in warm weather is best. In cold weather you need stats if your going to drive the car. A piece of cardboard over the bottom 1/3rd of the radiator will keep the engine in the normal temperature range on COOL days in the spring and fall. It's cold enough out in winter even the restricted flow of the stats don't allow the coolant to get that hot. Under these conditions even the restricted stats will function to keep the coolant at the rating of the stat by opening more if the engine gets hot and closeing if it gets to cool. They won't work this way in the summer they will just stay open all the time unless you have 190 stats then they MAY close slightly sometimes. G.M.

[CWPASADENA]

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WOW!!!!!!

This Thread really took on a life of its own.

Lots of opinions.

I think it gets down to the basics:

A Clean Block, Good Water Pumps, Head gaskets that are really sealed up well, Good coolant, Good radiator, a proper mechanical fan and good Air flow thru the radiator. Also keeping the system full of coolant, keeping as much air out of the coolant as possible, correct timing and un-restricted exhaust etc.

It seems to me that these sort of things are applicable to all automotive engines.

Running restrictors, copper tubes in the block, thermostats and such stuff may also help BUT if you do not first take care of the basics, all the "fixes" in the world may not do much good.

Again, this is just my opinion.

Chris

[flatjack9]

Right on , Chris. I've got a 276 cu in engine in my 39. It has an original radiator, no pressure, and original fan. I run 180 deg thermostats. I use water in the summer with anti-rust additives. This car will not overheat and I have driven it in 90 plus weather and it has been in parades in the summer. I did add a shroud which really helps low speed cooling. So this talk about not being able to run with thermostats in the summer without overheating is just not so. This is an 8BA engine with early heads.

[Frank The Plumber]

Originally Posted by CWPASADENA

WOW!!!!!!

This Thread really took on a life of its own.

Lots of opinions.

I think it gets down to the basics:

A Clean Block, Good Water Pumps, Head gaskets that are really sealed up well, Good coolant, Good radiator, a proper mechanical fan and good Air flow thru the radiator. Also keeping the system full of coolant, keeping as much air out of the coolant as possible, correct timing and un-restricted exhaust etc.

It seems to me that these sort of things are applicable to all automotive engines.

Running restrictors, copper tubes in the block, thermostats and such stuff may also help BUT if you do not first take care of the basics, all the "fixes" in the world may not do much good.

Again, this is just my opinion.

Chris

This guy gets it, clean correct and no problems. I think the trouble starts when a radiator is put into service or a block full of crud to save a few bucks. Seems that every one is selling hi flow pumps, must be a reason. A guy might save a 50 here and a hondo there but he sure will mess up a nice Saturday morning, This is for fun, if I want grief I can just work all weekend. Off time is too precious to be playing with a car that is messed up over saving a couple bucks, you get to certain point where you just are not gonna get that many more perfect and joyous days left in life to be sabotaging them by being over thrifty. Do it right, enjoy it, if you leave it to the kids they will just blow it on a $10,000 Wolf stove anyways. Stop on the way home from work, buy your girl a dozen flowers or a spring bouquet and take her out for a night. Get in the old car and go for a nice drive in the fresh snow late at night. Have fun.

[Chris Haynes]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

Skip Haney From Florida makes a pressure relief valve that fits onto the overflow tube. It's set at 4 pounds. This both increases the boil point and saves coolant by holding in the coolant during minor expansion from heating.

Contact Skip Haney 941-637-6698 day or 941-505-9085 nites.
[email protected]

Thanks Old Henry

[clyde28075]

if you use the the bolt on water outlets from speedway or just about anywhere the hole size on that is 1 inch so that is like a restriction right there that with a thermostat would that be to much i have a french Block mine runs 200 to 220 in hot weather i have a 7 nlb cap wit a closed system does not push water