276 stroker from 35 years of parts

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by Als48

Looking good Gary! I see Woody is hanging around watching.

Thanks Al, you can see in post 555 that I screwed him onto the searchlight right through his ring fingers and now he looks like he married well. This morning I installed the fuel pump and carb and made a detour around my new crossmember with the exhaust. I have a lot of new and used 2" exhaust fittings as well as ample 1 1/2" pipe fittings to fill in where needed.Only took about four pieces to route around it and end up back at my same muffler. When you see it you will recognize that I was heavily influenced by the works of the late Dr. Suess. Ok, that gal's new bed isn't gonna build itself.....

[GB SISSON]

Starter in, along with some better exhaust brackets. I made a shifter from a 5/8" tapered alignment pin. I took the new copper core plug wires from the 221 to adapt to this distributor Might need to come up with a longer wire for #8. No problem, I have 35 years of spark plug wires too. I plan a napa run in the morning. Can someone tell me the diameter copper tubing for oil filter? I have the top and bottom fittings. Top has restrictor. Are these compression fittings to 1/8" pipe? Same question for vac line between carb and dist. Can't really make out the seat in there. I tried a 1/8" compression coupler and with the cap and ferrule removed on one side it threaded in nicely. Maybe need some sealant. My little napa store does not stock fordnuts, at least they have never heard of them. Might try to light this thing off tomorrow afternoon. If not, then Sunday. Should I add some MMO to the crankcase maybe some to the gas? Share your 'break in' tips. I'm all ears.

[glennpm]

For the distributor tubing, I measured 0.184 to 0.186" OD so a little under 3/16", 0.1875".





Glenn

[deuce5wndw]

GB when I worked in a auto parts they called the fittings on the oil filter lines inverted flare nuts and that line is 1/4 inch.

[Bored&Stroked]

You should just use some good break-in oil - 30 weight is fine. I run this stuff during break in and for a limited amount of time while the rings are seating. I tend to take the car out on the road and do multiple fast full acceleration runs - seats the rings in quite quick.

Once I've done a couple initial runs, then I change the break-in oil - just to make sure there isn't any crap that made it into the pan that now wants to circulate in my engine. Oil isn't very expensive, and it is far better to change it out after an initial couple runs, than to run it to save a few bucks.

Also, I like to put in a can of Moroso ceramic seal (following the directions to the 'T') to help prevent any weeping around the head studs/bolts - is good cheap insurance. You can order a can from Jeg's. It needs to be ran with a clean engine block and just water - no anti-freeze, so the time to use it is after you initially start the engine and retorque the head bolts. Don't put anit-freeze in it until AFTER you've drained the ceramic-seal back out.

[GB SISSON]

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Glenn and Deuce, just what I needed. Thanks! Last night when she went upstairs to bed my wife said "Now don't be workin' on that thing til midnight". So I worked on it ti'l 1:15 instead. It was worth it. Right about midnight I found an old twisted up vacuum line with the carb and dist fittings on it. I kept an inch or two of steel line and went to hose for the run. Looks like my spark plug wires will work and fortunately I have 2 sets of distributor ends. I painted a set of the cool 8ba wire looms and they are dry this morning. I don't have top radiator hoses yet but can figure out a temporary setup if they don't come in today. Still wondering on thermostats, yes or no for the test? Someone gave me an unopened gallon of amsoil synthetic dexron 3 that is in spec for the T-5. I think I'm as excited about the difference that trans will make as much as the new engine. I have an extra radiator support that I will mount my new champion radiator in so I can drive it as is, providing I did everything right and it runs and drives. I promised to help my son with a project on his place today when I go in for parts, so I DO still have some semblance of a life hidden within the current madness. I still remember my dad, who died when I was 25, reminding me that when I was a young kid I would get a model car kit and dig in immediately, often staying up til the wee hours to complete the task. At 71, I see little hope for a change but at some point down the road I'm gonna start hoarding model car kits, just in case.....

[Als48]

Good luck with your startup this weekend. I should have gotten in touch with you a couple of weeks ago, when a couple of friends of mine were in Orcas Is. They started out there on a cross country bicycle ride and are now 15 days into it. I think they are in Montana now, doing a northern route to end up in Maine, I believe. I've done several statewide rides with them, but I have gotten a little old and out of shape to the whole cross-country thing. They did invite me to go, but I didn't jump at the chance. Rick and Lisa are 68, but I'm 78 as of June 11.

Al Hook

[GB SISSON]

Dale, lots of the good info I need. I didn't see this post when I signed off this morning. Thanks much! I have some good ol' 30 wt here and I understand about running the vehicle on the road in real life conditions to set the rings. Orcas Island is perfect break-in territory, up and down hills. Al Hook's friends will attest to the hills! I have a can of KW block seal here. I remember those explicit directions from using it about ten years ago. This block will never be this clean again so yes, a good plan. Hoping the KW product is close enough to the Moroso to use instead, but I do think it's a ceramic product. No news yet, I have the oil fittings and other odds and ends to do, like spark plug wires, then temporary radaitor setup, but I'm gaining on it. I need to find a pic of how these 4 hole plug wire looms are set up, how the wires are run etc. Looks like it's a Sunday start! Growing up we had this little Sisson Family coat of arms plaque with a crest and the family motto printed underneath, Not 'Strive for excellence' or ' Give it all you Got' , but simply 'Hope for the Best'. I'll be doing that tomorrow.

[Bored&Stroked]

If that block sealer is a water-glass, ceramic type sealer - then maybe use it. If not, don't use it - just order the Moroso stuff and put it in at a later date. Some of the block sealer products gum up radiators and make a mess of things. I've never used the KW stuff - so I'm always a bit wary!

Best of luck tomorrow - it will be like Christmas for sure! There is nothing more fun than starting a new engine!

Take care,
B&S

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

If that block sealer is a water-glass, ceramic type sealer - then maybe use it. If not, don't use it - just order the Moroso stuff and put it in at a later date. Some of the block sealer products gum up radiators and make a mess of things. I've never used the KW stuff - so I'm always a bit wary!

Best of luck tomorrow - it will be like Christmas for sure! There is nothing more fun than starting a new engine!

Take care,
B&S

Looks like the KW is a metallic sealer? I won't use it for now and I'll get the moroso ordered. Trimmed all the plug wires to fit. Cut the rubber plug end boots of and used Raja ends. Sure easier than the crimp stuff. Next I got the ignition hooked up. Now it's the inverted flare line to the oil filter. I bought the correct flare nuts at napa, but forgot to get the 1/8" pipe thread adapters for the block side of things. Instead I used 1/8" pipe thread hose barbs at the bottom of canister and the tapped hole in the block above the dipstick, and ran a 5/16" fuel hose. I hope I'm correct that it's just a drain back circuit with no real pressure. I will change it out when I get to napa. On the inverted flare with 1/4" copper tubing, do I need to do a double flare like a brake line? And would a store bought brake line of the correct size thread right in and seal? I may have one here. Would love to know asap as it's one of the last things before my attempted start. Thanks!

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

On the inverted flare with 1/4" copper tubing, do I need to do a double flare like a brake line? And would a store bought brake line of the correct size thread right in and seal?

The oil return is just a drain line and not under the engine high pressure oil. Single flare or a pre-fab brake line will both be fine.

[GB SISSON]

Glenn, I only had enough inverted flare fittings to use them on the pressure side. I went with single flare. I used 1/8" pipe hose barb fittingb and fuel line for the non pressure return.
Well, it started on about the third revolution and idles at 60 psi. I have water in the block but no rad on it or belts. I have been super careful to keep any running short. at 120 on the heat sensor gun I shut it off. But.... Here's the deal. It has a whirring sound like gears meshing, almost like driving a crash box truck in low, or anything with straight cut gears. At first immediate start I thought clutch counter weights rubbing inside hogshead. Stethescope is basically silent everywhere except the center flat on the timing cover. You hear it pretty good (pretty bad?) right there. I pulled the cover hoping to find something to fix. Nothing... No shavings, no shiney spots, just looking normal.
I'm using early style timing gears. Cam gear almost had to be NORS it looked clean and perfect shape. It was unmarked as to manufacturer so coulda been JC Whitney, Western Auto etc. or some reject. Ever heard of this? With nothing found I'm tempted to put the cover back on and investigate further. The wear ring on the inside of the cast iron cover looked a bit more shiney, so thought maybe it's tight lengthwise(like no endplay) so I patted it inwards and yes I saw and felt it move inwards.I have anothe used aluminum timing gear and one good looking fiber gear, both old style gear angle. Should I swap to a different gear? I's got red locktite and four hole lock plate.Help!

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Glenn, I only had enough inverted flare fittings to use them on the pressure side. I went with single flare. I used 1/8" pipe hose barb fittingb and fuel line for the non pressure return.
Well, it started on about the third revolution and idles at 60 psi. I have water in the block but no rad on it or belts. I have been super careful to keep any running short. at 120 on the heat sensor gun I shut it off. But.... Here's the deal. It has a whirring sound like gears meshing, almost like driving a crash box truck in low, or anything with straight cut gears. At first immediate start I thought clutch counter weights rubbing inside hogshead. Stethescope is basically silent everywhere except the center flat on the timing cover. You hear it pretty good (pretty bad?) right there. I pulled the cover hoping to find something to fix. Nothing... No shavings, no shiney spots, just looking normal.
I'm using early style timing gears. Cam gear almost had to be NORS it looked clean and perfect shape. It was unmarked as to manufacturer so coulda been JC Whitney, Western Auto etc. or some reject. Ever heard of this? With nothing found I'm tempted to put the cover back on and investigate further. The wear ring on the inside of the cast iron cover looked a bit more shiney, so thought maybe it's tight lengthwise(like no endplay) so I patted it inwards and yes I saw and felt it move inwards.I have anothe used aluminum timing gear and one good looking fiber gear, both old style gear angle. Should I swap to a different gear? I's got red locktite and four hole lock plate.Help!

[cadillac512]

Gary, is the crank gear new or used...I forget? I used a new alum aftermarket cam gear on a new crank gear ...early style stuff...and mine whirred/whined especially when cold. After about 5000 miles it got quiet. The aluminum gear bedded into the crank gear I guess. Mart had a similar experience and I believe swapped cam gears to quiet it. Here's his thread:





https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2085210

[Als48]

Yes, I agree with Cad512. Most of your flatheads probably have fiber gears, which are much quieter, especially when new.

Al Hook

[GB SISSON]

It is already much quieter. Because the front clip is off and no radiator in yet, the cover comes off in about 5 minutes. I have now done two laps around my 1/8 mile oval track. Two hours between to cool it off. It's about 110 degrees when I start and 165 when I complete the lap. Then I work on tidying up wiring and plumbing and cleaning the messy shop. Once it's warm it idles at 40 lbs oil pressure on my manual gauge. I have not read Marts thread yet wil do that after I post. I also remember someone, maybe Mark Kirby selling straight cut timing sets for flatheaders that love that sound . Lastly, this thing pulls like crazy. It's like the flying woodie. The T5 shifts like butter though I haven't reached fourth gear yet. With no transmission hump in I have no foot rest button so the spoon accelerator pedal is really touchy on my unpaved track. Makes for a wild ride. I will install the radiator when my top hoses come in, then I can cruise around my end of the island. Talked to one of the Sherriff deputies about no headlights/clip/fenders and guy said not needed, just use hand signals. That way I can get it broken in and still have easy access for replacing the gear if I decide to. It keeps getting better! Oh, and Terry, I used a crank gear I pulled off another 8ba crank. As usual, stay tuned!

[cadillac512]

That's good news...maybe it'll bed right in. No cooling system and 1/8 mile at a time, that's a hoot! If that thing pulls like mine does it's going to pull that woodie around effortlessly. I'm sure jealous of the T5- but a LOT of work to swap mine over! Well done, Gary.

[cadillac512]

Wait...Is that a bicycle inner tube connecting the water inlets?

[Ray in La Mesa]

That's so exciting! We remember driving your doodle bug around your "1/8 mile track" Ray & JudyJo

[GB SISSON]

Terry, yes of course a bicycle inner tube. Duh, what else would ya use? And Ray, That was a great visit and talk about a hoot! I'll never forget your little wife effortlessly double clutching that cut down AA truck around the loop. Then a victory lap, just because. Was a great day today, wasn't gonna let a little whirring spoil the fun! I bet I rolled under that truck 25 times each of the last four days. For instance... Gotta roll(drag myself) back out, this twisty old cotter pin won't go back in. Get a new one from the little plastic divider box. Crap, this is one size too big. The next one I drop while it's overhead and somehow it's now under me. I had a brand new full plastic ptfe permatex teflon sealer, one use on it sitting out by the running board with the cap/brush off. I kicked it over on my way in with the third cotter pin and dragged myself t hrough the thick white puddle on my way out. A guy could make rain gear outa his old clothes. But it's been a long week ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ