t-5 confused which one?

[Flat Ernie]

I show that as 85-86 S10 with the following gear ratios:

1st - 3.76 2nd - 2.18 3rd - 1.41 4th - 1.00 5th - 0.72

Should be cable drive speedo as well.

[bugsiegel]

Got the T-5 last week. # 145
Had to fly to Hanover PA and land on a grass field to pick it up. Airport manager was nice enough to run over to the junk yard and pick it up for me ahead of time. Loaded it in the rear seat and put a seat belt on it. Flew back with an 18 mph tail wind. Just couldn't find one local. Made more than 50 phone calls. The closest I found all had the electronic speedo and I want to stay cable.
I'm moving around the shifter mechanism with my fingers and it feels fine in and out of gears and the shafts spin nicely but I'd like to have a look inside this thing. Looks to me like I will have to slide the tail housing back before I can remove the top cover to see inside. Also looks like this trans was Hydrolic.
(this is all new to me) The tag number indicates 1985 but the junkyard markings on top say 88 s-10 so either they marked it wrong in the yard or it was a transplant.

[Ol' Ron]

What kind of plane do you have. We built a runway in Vermont where we flew out of. Had a 57 182 with Horton stall conversion, great for those short grass strips.

[bugsiegel]

Ron,
I'm a member of Richmond Pilots
I took 5272R

[Krylon32]

You'll lose that hydraulic bellhousing for a FH conversion.

[Flat Ernie]

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The rebuild manual is available online and it will tell you how to open it up. Check my signature, or BillB's Techno Site.

Short version - remove shifter, drive roll pin in shifter block straight down, remove tailhousing bolts, slide tailhousing off (hold hand over shifter block - there is a spring and ball you can lose if not careful), remove top cover bolts and remove cover. To reinstall, basically reverse, but you have to pull the roll pin out and drive it in from the top again - it has to be set in there and held by hand while you reinstall the tailhousing.

[bugsiegel]

My output shaft on this trans is 1.17 inches diameter and it has 27 splines. what exactly am I doing to make this connect to my new or reworked drive shaft?

[Krylon32]

Tell the driveshaft shop you have an S10 trans and what your rear yoke is plus the length he needs and he should be able to make your driveshaft. I have had dozens of driveshafts made for the pkg cars we build

[4t8v8]

On my '48 F1 I used a Chevy S10 output yolk and had the original drive shaft shortened to 49 3/4". Measured from center of eye to center of eye. U joints are universal - the F1 u joint will fit the Chevy yolk. Be sure when you do the rear mount you get the drive shaft angle correct.

[bugsiegel]

4t8v8

Be sure when you do the rear mount you get the drive shaft angle correct.

how much of a choice will I have? I'm planning on doing this with the engine still in the truck. The trans, I'm assuming mounts flush to the block so the angle should already be set right? Or is there a way to adjust the angle. What are we looking for , straight as possible with the truck on all 4's right?
also what holds the yoke to the trans spline, a bolt? on the differential side I remember a nut and cotter pin.
and lastly once I unbolt the 3 speed trans and ease it off the block will anything fall out or is everything in there tied into a one side of the other? ( never been in there)
Thanks for all the help guys.

[4t8v8]

When you try to install your T5 you will find the mount is farther back than the original. You will have to cut a piece out of the center of the present rear cross member to allow room for the T5 to fit. As your clutch and brake pedal mount to the left side of the cross member you cannot remove it completely. I built a new rear cross member out of 3" channel iron and braced the 2 halves of the original to it for stability. You must be careful to measure the distance from the frame to the center of your original trans output shaft and get the new shaft at the nearly the same height. As the new trans is longer I set mine 1/8" lower. If you will notice, the engine does not sit level. It is at approx. 7 degrees slant to the rear. This is to allow the downward slope of the engine to line up with the upward slope of the differential. You will not want them lined up perfectly. Google "driveshaft alignment" and you will get a clearer picture. Good luck. It's a big job but well worth it.

[4t8v8]

Forgot. Nothing will fall out when you remove your transmission. The yoke floats on the trans spline and is fastened solid to the rear end. This yolk has to slip to allow for differences in distance from the trans to the rear end as the rear end goes up and down.

[bugsiegel]

4t8v8 to be clear.
I will position the new trans with the bell housing bolts loose enough to wiggle the trans around then position the rear of the trans onto my new cross member. once I'm happy the output shaft is where I need it, adding or removing spacers as needed, then I lock the rear of the trans in position by tightening to the new cross member first, then I tighten the bell to the block. Is this the correct order of installation?
Again thanks

[Ol' Ron]

Your also going to change the disk in the clutch to a chevy unit. I think Corh huskers have one that is a direct replacement.

[4t8v8]

I would tighten the bell housing to the block first. That way if something is in a bind you won't crack or warp the bell housing. The bell housing to the block is a given and can't change. I should have mentioned when I set my trans output shaft low, it was to give room for shims to get exactly the right height.
Ol' Ron is correct about the clutch disk. I got mine from Cornhuskers'. They have the exact disc for this conversion. I believe Speedway has it also.

[bugsiegel]

I ordered the kit from Cornhuskers.
I'm just a little confused though. If the bell housing is tight to the block and the trans is tight to the bell housing where is the adjustment possible? It sounds to me that once the trans is tight to the block the out put shaft will land where it lands? Unless spacers are used between the bell and the block?

[4t8v8]

The centerline from the front of the crankshaft to the output shaft on the trans must be dead straight. Get it out of line and you will know it. You get adjustment for the splined output shaft by raising or lowering the rear trans mount. That is why you must measure from the frame (not the floor) to the center of your original trans output shaft before you start. Then when you build your new rear cross member to mount the T5, build it a little lower than the original. Then you can use shims between the new cross member and the rear trans mount to set the correct height. You must get the drive shaft angle from the rear trans yoke to the input yoke of the rear end correct or you will have a terrible vibration and very short lived "u" joints. If you will google "driveshaft alignment" you will see what I mean.

[4t8v8]

One thing that might help you is to look at how your radiator is mounted. It is not straight up and down. It is leaned back approx 7 degrees to match how your engine is mounted.

[bugsiegel]

I broke down the trans tonight. Tomorrow morning I will clean all the parts and have my fatherinlaw look them over.
I still have to figure out a shifter, this trans didn't come with one. I believe the factory didn't have positive stops anyway. Most likely I will need a short throw shifter since the new exit hole will be closer to the seat. any suggestions?
Will the shifter off the three speed work temporarily?

[bugsiegel]

need a little help please.
I took the trans apart and took photo's all the way through. But I hadn't disassembled the main shaft because I needed a press. I forgot to bring my camera.to my fatherinlaws the next day. My fatherinlaw and I took it apart naturally I can't remember where anything goes. I have looked at the diagrams on line but some are not clear, some don't exactly match what I have when I look at the shifter position, some have part numbers that belong to their own inventory ect......
I believe from my photos I have the major parts in order but the three roman numeral parts need a home and I can't figure it out. Also I need to replace #7 worn inside - #i was damaged during dissassembly and just one sincro ring of the four that are the same ( not the over drive ). So if you can help with the part numbers.
Again my trans number is 145
and while were here, tell me if I have any of the parts out of order.
I've used Chris Neighbors article to guide me but his diagram also shows the trans way back on the tail stock. Anybody have a good diagram for this trans?